by orphanespresso on Fri Feb 26, 2010 6:25 pm
Tighten the nut or replace the seals? Big difference in the two jobs. Depending on the age of the seals you could try tightening without going to the trouble of seal replacement, which involves taking off the group, steam faucet, and faceplate. If you change the sight tube seals then you are going to likely need a new group to boiler seal, and if it is pre 1982, the steam faucet o ring and crush washer as well as the crush for the pressure safety valve above the sight glass (either old or new style you will need to reseal the safety valve).
If you go about the process of changing the seals for new ones you can tighten the nuts with any 17mm open end wrench while you have the face plate off but if you decide to simply tighten you will need to make a custom type wrench, made by grinding down a 17mm open end to make a thin fork and creating a modified box end by grinding off part of the box to create a kind of open box end. To properly do the seal change you replace the seals and tighten the nuts but not overtight and then run the machine for an hour or so to get a good heat up on the nuts (of course to do this you have to reassemble the machine, including the face plate). After a good heat run then you touch up the tighness of the nuts while hot (ish) by removing the pstat and reaching in to give the nuts another 1/4 turn or so. Either way it helps to have the special wrench instead of trying to use a pliers or something that will either slip or give you a false feeling of torque.
It is an uncommonly large job to change the seals and the sight glass leak is a very common one.
And by the way, it is not easy to break the glass tube. If you NEVER get close to the glass ends with anything metal then you have an almost 100% guaranteee of not breaking the tube. As soon as you start to probe or push with a metallic tool then kiss that glass goodbye!