At least, I think it's a switch problem on my 1976 EP. I do know that I have a problem where neither of my espresso machines are functioning - especially this old work horse. On this model, I have I-off-II The issue is that out of the three positions, I only have the lower (I) heating element setting - takes a very long time to heat. I can depress II, and it clicks, but it doesn't stick. If I keep it depressed, it doesn't engage the higher heat coil.

I've read the related posts, I've been to Pavoni Express, and, after being alerted by a fellow HB poster, discovered D.Garrott's (OrphanEspresso) absolutely fantastic YouTube videos on wiring. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lsYRSjayTeM It seems to me like the rocker switch is broken - I just don't know why or if there is a replacement. Confirmations or further suspicions to be investigated will be most appreciated.

I've checked the resistance across and around the heating element (about 20 and 55), and if I check ohms from an element post to the base, I get nothing - all good. Eventually, I removed the switch from the base, hoping to be able to inspect it further. There are some clips to be removed, but I suspect that there is no further unwrapping once that is done. I did check the resistance across the switch, I only get a reading from the two right contacts (photo).

-phillip

Hello again Phillip....see. the La Pavoni is just like the big lever just smaller. Right you are, no switch available for the machine except used and none of those here either. We are starting to think that the best solution that a person is going to be able to come up with for that long unobtainium switch is to make a plate that looks a lot like the Olympia Chiaso switch plate. that is the Olympia badged La Pavoni and it has the obtainable over under I/II switch set in a chrome cover plate. You can directly install a switch like this without the cover but you end up with an unsightly gap in the metal (you have to saw out the hole to fit the switch and then the tail end of the old hole still shows....but you can make a blank to dress it up). Cutting a larger hole for the newer model switch and using a trim cover piece is a much nicer looking solution, to us at least. The entire cover holding the switch can be installed with small sheet metal screws and it almost looks like a factory job.

I had the same problem with a broken switch in my 1976 EP and found replacement switches to be fairly easy to find, though they don't look identical to the original. I found several options from online electronic suppliers such as Digi-key and Mouser, but ended up getting a "close enough" replacement locally for a bit more money.

A few caveats with the replacements:
Mine does not have the I / II legend on the switch, but the online shops do have several options with the labels.
The original spring steel retainer does not fit the Carling RC911 series switch that I used, and I needed to remove the plastic friction retainers from the switch, but it fits right into chrome bezel perfectly and there is enough friction to hold it in place.

A note of caution on the original steel retainer clip: if it doesn't fit firmly on your switch, there's a chance that it could slide down and make contact with the uninsulated terminals, which would be a bad thing. Best to leave it off if it's not completely secure.

Fixed!! I kept wondering what was inside - it should just be a switch and a switch just needs to make a connection. I pulled it apart, below, and found the gunk - cleaned it up, good as new. I did break on plastic piece off the the white switch, which caused it to not sit in the metal cut-out properly, so I had to shave it a bit. Other than the rubber gasket around the switch (must be extra careful not to get any liquid or grinds around there) - all is back to normal and working properly. After 33 year, who among us cannot be accused of gathering up a wee bit of gunk. What a great machine. Thank you for the responses.
In case you want to see the insides, here you go. The copper piece rocks left or right, or stays put in the middle with the contacts off either end - obvious to see why it's called a rocker switch.
It may look like the right side of the copper piece (the II position) is broken off at the end; it's not, just the photo, both sides are symmetric. The plastic pointy end coming out of the switch slides out quite easily - very small, must be careful not to lose it if you do this cleaning one day.

-phillip

Glad you got it sorted out Phillip! For what it's worth, my switch had a broken "pivot pin" also and although it worked, I felt that the contacts may not have been mated firmly enough. I would occasionally hear a sizzling sound when switching it on

I just ordered another switch from Allied Electronics which has the I O II marks and is rated for 20 Amps. I'll follow up if it fits. Here is what I ordered: http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=9080109

Very nice solutions all around! The Allied switch looks good.....once again, have to do a bit of fitting and shimming, but all in all better than a dead switch. Thanks for the link....have to check it out to see how it fits.

The plastic switch body can be recreated by various online 3d printing businesses like Shapeways.

Just to follow up, my replacement from Allied Electronics came in, and it is nearly identical to the Carling switch, but with the "I O II" printing. I needed to clip off one of the plastic retaining tabs, but otherwise it dropped right into the chrome surround without modification. The bezel on the new switch is beveled, but that will be hidden by the surround. Here are the original and the replacement:

bluebottle wrote:Just to follow up, my replacement from Allied Electronics came in, and it is nearly identical to the Carling switch, but with the "I O II" printing. I needed to clip off one of the plastic retaining tabs, but otherwise it dropped right into the chrome surround without modification. The bezel on the new switch is beveled, but that will be hidden by the surround. Here are the original and the replacement:

Very nice. Could you post an OEM part number so that other can find this switch in the future?

Mark

Good point, the Cherry part number is CRE24F2HBBNE.