Need replacement Caravel heating element - Page 11

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
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SimonPatrice
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#101: Post by SimonPatrice »

Paul_Pratt wrote:Patrice do you not have the posts that the elements plugs into? Looks like a short or poor contact.
No, I don't think this version (a later model) has posts for the element. The original element that looks pretty much like this one:



connects directly to the wires with something like this:



so I unscrewed the posts that are on the element put the "connectors" and screwed the posts on top of it.

I hope this makes sense. If not I can try taking pictures in the next days (but won't be able to do so tomorrow).

Edited to add: At least, I checked and nothing is stuck together so if I need to, I'll be able to just go back to the original element.


And while we're at it, do you know if it's safe to use your 110v element in a 220v Caravel plugged into a 110v outlet?


Thanks for your help!
Patrice
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pocketmon
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Joined: 10 years ago

#102: Post by pocketmon »

Paul_Pratt wrote:Patrice do you not have the posts that the elements plugs into? Looks like a short or poor contact.

Just want to add that I do not think it is a good idea to be swapping elements of different voltages between machines of different voltages unless the wiring has been uprated. There seems to be too much variance between Caravels for us to guess that the wiring is consistent, and also remember we are dealing with decades old wiring with old insulation.
YES. There are many different versions. MY 220V caravel WORKS fine with 110V doesn't mean ALL will.
BTW, mine should be version 1.1 according to Francesco's web site.

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grog
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#103: Post by grog »

My new 110v element arrived yesterday - I immediately swapped it out for the original 220v and pulled a delicious shot of Linea's decaf Ethiopian blend. So nice to have the fast warmup times and full power that I've been missing since accidentally killing my Gabor 110v element.

FWIW, I never replaced the internal wiring or the original plug on my v1.0 Caravel, and it was one of my daily drivers with the Gabor 110v element for about a year. Never had any issues. The element fried due to user error- I plugged it into a 240v outlet.
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dmw010
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#104: Post by dmw010 »

I put my 110v element in a v1.2 last night. I had previously changed out the power cord for a US 3-prong cord, but did not replace any other wiring. Turned it on, up to 200 degrees in less than 10 minutes, and pulled a really nice shot of Barismo Clockwork. It did seem that the boiler and the housing got much warmer than I remember running the 220v element on 110, and I could see the element glowing red through the narrow gap between the boiler and the housing. But all seemed well.

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SimonPatrice
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#105: Post by SimonPatrice »

Would any of you guys mind posting a pic of the way you connected the Cafelat element on your Caravel?
Patrice
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spressomon
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#106: Post by spressomon »

dmw010 wrote:I put my 110v element in a v1.2 last night. I had previously changed out the power cord for a US 3-prong cord, but did not replace any other wiring. Turned it on, up to 200 degrees in less than 10 minutes, and pulled a really nice shot of Barismo Clockwork. It did seem that the boiler and the housing got much warmer than I remember running the 220v element on 110, and I could see the element glowing red through the narrow gap between the boiler and the housing. But all seemed well.

David, no issue with the little red power lamp going from 220 to 110?
No Espresso = Depresso

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GVDub
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#107: Post by GVDub »

Some of the later Caravels don't have the big ceramic insulator through which the posts run. My 1.1 version has it my v2 (or whatever the numbering is for the cylinder where the seals have left the piston and become o-rings in the cylinder walls) doesn't, having the direct post connections that SimonPatrice shows in his photo.

To replace a type 2 element (direct connect to the element itself, no sleeves, no ceramic) I think you'd need a pair of those brass sleeves that Paul fab'd for another user (don't remember who right now, but it's a couple pages back in the thread). And some heatshrink or some such to provide electrical insulation on the aleeve/post assembly.

Just got the 110/120v element from Paul last week and new gaskets from Brooks today. Got it all put together and did a quick fire up and shot pull. No leaks, good heat, but I'll have to do a little tweaking of the thermostat yet to get it settled. But pulled a decent shot of an SO Sidamo I roasted this last weekend. So, potentially, all's well. Now I can spend some time resurrecting the type 2 machine I have with the Gabor element still in there. What a luxury it will be to have two working Caravels, one at work and one for travel/home use when I want to test a roast without cleaning out the big grinder and firing up the Londinium.
"Experience is a comb nature gives us after we are bald."
Chinese Proverb
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GVDub
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#108: Post by GVDub »

spressomon wrote:David, no issue with the little red power lamp going from 220 to 110?
It'll be a little dim, but usable.
"Experience is a comb nature gives us after we are bald."
Chinese Proverb
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Cafedenda
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#109: Post by Cafedenda »

I received 2 elements and the cute tamper a few days ago. I like the creative way Paul and his gang packed this stuff. I read here and there that the element should be flat for maximum contact with the boiler. On both of my elements, the part with the multi loops is below the outside part by 1 to 2mm. I looked at the original 220V and it is flatter but not completely flat either. Since I haven't heard any comment regarding this, are your elements pretty flat across the top? I haven't had a chance to try them yet.

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Paul_Pratt
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#110: Post by Paul_Pratt »

Feel free to manipulate the element a bit if you want to get it perfectly flat, it's basically a big spring as well so it will move about. I realised when testing them that you don't want the prongs to be completely square into the brass sleeves, I was bending them so that the prongs are not square and require a bit of force to get them into the sleeves to ensure a good contact.

Whilst the bending was done with a mold the final fitting and adjustment was done by me so there may be little variances. They seem pretty robust so a little manipulation is fine.