Custom Astoria Fiore 2 group lever machine has finally landed!! - Page 2

A haven dedicated to manual espresso machine aficionados.
skydragondave
Posts: 158
Joined: 11 years ago

#11: Post by skydragondave »

Hey William,
The issue with the backsplash being removed is in being able to sanitize the work surface. In practice it's not a big issue on a machine that makes coffee but if an inspector points it out you may have to put the backsplash back on.
You'll find the gas system is great for being able to do outdoor events like parties, weddings etc. as the propane heat allows you to run the machine on a standard branch circuit and still get lots of steam power. Using it indoors however you want to check the CO content of the exhaust and make sure it's dialed in. Most HVAC places have the equipment to do this for you.
The issue with insurance is a relatively new one on me as I recently became friends with an insurance broker. Just make sure that you disclose what you have when taking out a policy. Not every broker will ask for the necessary details when underwriting you and that can come up later if you have to make a claim.
I'm sure you'll have no issue with the way the machine performs, I've had mine for a few years now and it works very well. I actually prefer the espresso served from these machines, especially the lighter roasted single-origin coffees seem to do very well with the profile curve of a lever. Customers are also drawn to the theater of pulling the lever, and with the custom work done to yours I'm sure you're going to get a lot of positive attention from them!
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GeneBean
Posts: 69
Joined: 10 years ago

#12: Post by GeneBean »

Congrats on your new machine!
I was watching this on ebay and just wasn't able to come up with the finances for it. My hat's off to you. I'm looking forward to more posts and your experience with this great piece of history. I'd love to learn the story of the 2 different groups and how they each perform.
Keep us posted!
Gene

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Ellejaycafe (original poster)
Posts: 644
Joined: 9 years ago

#13: Post by Ellejaycafe (original poster) replying to GeneBean »

Thanks!! The machine definitely wasn't as cheap as I like... But it had the looks I was after, was a lever machine, and has everything I need to do a mobile setup.

I'm really really happy with the purchase.

From my understanding the two different groups don't make much of a difference in shot quality or consistency. The previous owner made it clearer to me that he didn't notice a difference at all. I think it's strictly a cosmetic thing. One of the groups is the original style and the other is the newer style. I do believe they have the same spring in them, which is what matters. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
LMWDP #544

Ellejaycafe (original poster)
Posts: 644
Joined: 9 years ago

#14: Post by Ellejaycafe (original poster) »

So I looked a little further into inspecting the machine this morning. I took of the side panels to get a look inside and am very happy with how clean it is.



I really like how the propane system is set up. It has the entire burner surrounded to prevent a lot of air from getting in there which should help with thermal stability when using propane. I noticed there is a screw missing to that holds on the back mesh style panel, not a big deal at all. There is also a vacuum breaker on the top of the boiler so no need to bleed false pressure (don't know if it came that way or not? I know some old levers don't have them). I would take off the top but it requires taking out a lot of screws, it's much easier to take the wooden side panels off.

Looking at the groups the screens were very loosely installed. So I used pliers to tighten that up and they fit much better now. There is still a little play no matter how much I tighten them but I suppose that's normal.

I have noticed there is no dispersion screen on these groups and understand they don't come with one. There is just the two holes and the screen. I'm guessing that doesn't matter when it comes to shot quality though.

Another thing I noticed is that there is a grease like substance on the bottom of the group where the two holes are.



I'm wondering how grease even got here, I'm guessing it's Dow 111 that is used inside the group for lubrication. I doubt that it is supposed to be on this part of the group. Should I just wipe clean and go on with my business? Is this normal? I can't imagine Dow 111 tasting good in a shot. It doesn't seem to be coffee residue, it's very grease like.
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Ellejaycafe (original poster)
Posts: 644
Joined: 9 years ago

#15: Post by Ellejaycafe (original poster) »

Another question before I fire her up and pull some shots. I have read in multiple threads that VST baskets aren't the best to use with these machines (due to a finer grind already being required). I have a multitude of baskets but am wondering which is the best to use? And also what kind of head space is required on these groups? I know these are simple questions that I could figure out myself.... But I'd rather not spend a couple of days and waste a bunch of coffee figuring it out :roll:
LMWDP #544

Ellejaycafe (original poster)
Posts: 644
Joined: 9 years ago

#16: Post by Ellejaycafe (original poster) »

A few other things about the machine for anyone that's interested. Taking the other side panel off I can see the pressurestat. It seems to be a sirai just without the plastic cover, which is nice to have. The adjustment screw is on the bottom, which is a bit of a hassle to get to but I don't see myself messing g with it once I have it set.



It's kind of just hanging there. Don't know of that will be an issue or not.

Looking under the drip tray you can see the "pstat" or just pressure controller for the propane. From my understanding it tells the flames to go higher or lower to keep the pressure stable. A pretty cool feature and design of you ask me.

The switch you see is to switch between propane and 110v. Switch it up and the machine will use the 110v.



You simply turn the screw on the left hand side to adjust to your desired pressure. The screw also isn't in the best spot, it will take the finest screwdriver to get in there.

On the other side under the drip tray is the manual fill. I really like the wooden handle used here. Also there is a 3/8 John guest style push fit fitting to plumb it in.

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ira
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#17: Post by ira »

I thought pressurestats were supposed to have the steam connection at the bottom so water does not puddle on the diaphragm. I would sure mount it that way if it was mine.

Ira

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Ellejaycafe (original poster)
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#18: Post by Ellejaycafe (original poster) replying to ira »

Hmmmm I thought it was weird that it was mounted this way. It's obviously easier to do considering the copper tubing is easier to fabricate with it being on top. It will take a bit of work to remount it the other way around. Thanks for the heads up.
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skydragondave
Posts: 158
Joined: 11 years ago

#19: Post by skydragondave replying to Ellejaycafe »

Hey William, a couple things. Regarding the loose shower screens, there's a trick to installing these and once they are bent in any way I find they're never the same again. Luckily they are neither expensive nor hard to find, OE and EP should have them in stock. My advice is get at least four so if you damage one or two you can carry on until you get it right. That grease you saw is food grade silicone, Molykote 111 probably, you can get this from the same vendors.
Firstly, with the machine shut off pull the lever/piston groups up and out of the group barrels. With them exposed like that it's easy to spin the four allen bolts out of the top flange with a T-handle. Remove one of the handles and in your case with the threads pointing down to avoid damaging the wood, lower it into the piston barrels and press the old screens off. Take a new screen with teeth pointing down and set it on a table. With your two thumbs, starting from the edge and rolling toward the center, press gently, carefully, but firmly until the convex curve snaps inward to become concave. If you press too hard, you can permanently bend or crease the screen and ruin it so here's where it's nice to have extras. If you get it pressed in properly, this will expand the teeth on the other side. Now you can easily turn them around and press the screens home in their groove. Now holding the screen in place by the edges, grab a lever or a wooden hammer handle and press down on the screen from inside the group until it snaps out again. This will lock the screen in so tightly you shouldn't be able to rotate it in its groove. You'll want them this tight so water is less prone to gushing around the outside of the screen when pulling a shot.
This is also useful technique to save a screen that falls off if you accidently overdose your basket and turn the screen inside out: it's the easiest way to reinstall it without damaging it.
Regarding the pressurestat, the only concern I would have with it being upside down is in case it leaks, water could get on the contacts and short to the frame. Simonelli and some Faema machines have the Sirai pstat installed horizontally at the bottom of the machine from the factory so having them below the boiler or facing sideways isn't a problem. Reviewing the previous thread it looks like the machine came that way from the P-PO not the seller, luckily there's a coil of pipe which will easily allow you to turn it 90* so it faces sideways, which should be good enough, just make sure there are no leaks or rubbing/exposed wires.
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FotonDrv
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#20: Post by FotonDrv »

ira wrote:I thought pressurestats were supposed to have the steam connection at the bottom so water does not puddle on the diaphragm. I would sure mount it that way if it was mine.

Ira
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