Londinium - alternate parts sources

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FotonDrv
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#1: Post by FotonDrv »

Other Posters have asked me directly, as well as here in HB, where I get the parts I use for the Londinium machines I have owned. FWIW I have had an L-I 1st Gen and now the L1-P.

I use the AS_31 from Espresso Parts and the AS_32 from Espresso Parts for rubber seals and gaskets. The AS_32 gives an early lockin angle because it is a 6mm thick PF Gasket and not the OEM 5.5mm gasket. These folks are a good source of parts in general.

https://www.espressoparts.com/search?q=AS_32

https://www.espressoparts.com/lever-piston-gasket

For silicone gaskets and seals I am using Cafelat Piston Seals and have been testing an E61 PF/Group Gasket (black silicone). I love the Piston Seals, easy to install and work just fine. The Group Gasket is a 6mm gasket so it has an early lockin, like the rubber ones for the early Astoria as sold by Espresso parts, but it is silicone and a more positive grab when locked in.
http://www.cafelatstore.com/




I use the IMS baskets and the IMS Shower Screens if I want something other than the OEM baskets and Screens. I also use the Espresso Parts "Triple" basket. Here are some links for them.

https://www.espressoparts.com/12gr-the- ... a-marzocco

https://www.espressoparts.com/precision ... r-standard

https://www.espressoparts.com/espresso- ... ter-basket

https://www.espressoparts.com/search?q=1460201

https://www.espressoparts.com/precision ... ead-screen This 35um screen did not want to stay on the L1-P but it did stay on the L-I; I cannot explain the reason for I tried many things to make it work because the screen works better if it stays put!

To get from 3/8" BSP threads to 3/8" compression that you might find under your sink I use this type of fitting from a couple of sources.

https://www.espressoparts.com/espresso/ ... ssion-male

https://www.espressoparts.com/espresso/ ... ssion-male

http://www.espressocare.com/products/fi ... r-products

I use an Everpure ESO7 from Espresso Parts and a simple Carbon filter before the Everpure because the water numbers come out better and the water tastes better that way and not carbon last. Before both filters I use a
http://www.rusco.com/index.php/product1 ... er-filters because of the sediment that our local water provider seems to put into the pipes from water main flushing; really nasty rust! The Spindown with a drain on it means I can keep the filters as clean as possible so they can focus on getting the chemistry correct.
I use one of these meters to keep track of gallons used and when it might be best to change the filters. http://www.jerman.com/dljmeter.html



There are so many ways to test your water that I defer to others expertise on how to do it; I use 3 methods and some might say I am doing it wrong. Oh well, I at least try, and I do not get the scale build up on the water wand.

I also replaced the water wand to an offset wand to be able to fill large mugs and pitchers of hot water. I found an offset water wand that was a no-burn wand, great idea since it greatly reduces the volcanic spewing of hot water! I got it from Chris Coffee but I suspect there are other sources that will work as well. I changed the nut for the OEM water wand to the new wand just for looks since the threads were the same and I could have just put the new wand on without modification.

https://www.chriscoffee.com/No-Burn-Hot ... /nbhww.htm I believe it is from a QuickMill.


The no burn steam wand might be a good upgrade and something I will try in the future as it is being shipped presently. The steam wand that comes on the L1-P is very long and not necessary for the small pitchers of milk that I need/use. If it is shorter it will also allow it to be swung over the drip tray more easily. One might want to warm their pasta over the tray :-)

I also had the opportunity to change the Group Piston Sleeve. Mine was damaged from the factory with transverse gouges/scratches that were NOT hone marks. So since Londinium would not warrant this item and thought it would work just fine the way it was I ordered a new one from Londinium. They were not very happy about it and said they would see what it costs and get back to me. So I waited and after a week I ordered one from Bosco just to see if they were the same. When Londinium finally got back to me with a cost I agreed and had them send one to me, along with "O"rings. The Bosco one arrived a day before the Londinium one and for less money with quicker service. Both of the sleeves are identical to each other in every respect. Another thing to note is that both of them have a more polished bore, much finer hone marks, than the Londinium OEM and that is noticeable in the way the Lever Pulls and sounds. I suspect the seals will last longer with the more perfect bore. I installed the Bosco sleeve because it arrived first, plus I wanted to see if there was any difference, and there is no difference. I think it is the same Group as the Fiorenzato.

http://www.bosco-macchine.com/home.asp

https://www.espressomachinendoctor.de/ ... _:488.html

http://www.fiorenzato.co.uk/piazza_san_ ... resso.html

Cafe Parts is also another good source of parts.

http://www.cafeparts.com/productDetail5 ... 6&ItemID=0

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arcus
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#2: Post by arcus »

Great info! Thanks for sharing.

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nickw
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#3: Post by nickw »

Curious how your lever pulls and sounds with the new sleeve? And how was it compared to your L1?

Mine is quite smooth (in look and feel), plus to pull.

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TomC
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#4: Post by TomC »

Good to hear you finally got that group sleeve sorted.
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FotonDrv (original poster)
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#5: Post by FotonDrv (original poster) »

nickw wrote:Curious how your lever pulls and sounds with the new sleeve? And how was it compared to your L1?

Mine is quite smooth (in look and feel), plus to pull.
My L-I was silky smooth where as the L1-P groans. Part of it is spring rub that I am having difficulty solving. I have moved the root of the spring several times to try and get it better and I have gotten it a lot better from the "New" position. Now it only rubs during the first 1/4 of a stroke.

The seals, with the hard rubber OEM one, was rough in the way it felt. The Cafelat silicone seals made it feel better, probably because they do not press as hard to the cylinder walls. If you look at the OEM sleeve the hone marks were very noticeable, the new sleeve they are much finer and would be much easier for the seals to slide over.
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FotonDrv (original poster)
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#6: Post by FotonDrv (original poster) »

TomC wrote:Good to hear you finally got that group sleeve sorted.
Me too, and it was pretty darn easy to change. Attention must be paid to orientation of the 4 water ports as you insert the new sleeve into the Group because once in the Group it is not possible to rotate it. I tried with my fingers to rotate it with just one "O"ring engaged and it was not possible so with both in place it is super solid!

I made a tool (go figure) to push out the sleeve evenly and to push it back into place. Just use the same tool on top and push straight down after lubing the "O"rings.




I used a scissors jack and turned it with one hand (no handle) to push up on the tool/sleeve.
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#7: Post by EspressoForge »

FotonDrv wrote:Attention must be paid to orientation of the 4 water ports as you insert the new sleeve into the Group because once in the Group it is not possible to rotate it. I tried with my fingers to rotate it with just one "O"ring engaged and it was not possible so with both in place it is super solid!
I don't yet have my group to play with, but I thought the point of that sleeve is that it can be in any orientation? I had imagined that water from the back of the group floods that channel, then goes into the sleeve through those 4 ports, but is there a reason that the port needs to line up?

Thanks for your insight!

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FotonDrv (original poster)
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#8: Post by FotonDrv (original poster) replying to EspressoForge »

I believe the point is to NOT have the water from the back of the Group aligning with one particular port so there is an even flow of water around the Group. Otherwise you would have a flood of water into that one port, predominately, and the Group would not thermosyphon properly.

Maybe someone who understands the Lever Group better could be more accurate. When I opened the Group from its initial wrappings and inserted I thought the water ports were straddling that Group port.
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arcus
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#9: Post by arcus »

EspressoForge wrote:I don't yet have my group to play with, but I thought the point of that sleeve is that it can be in any orientation? I had imagined that water from the back of the group floods that channel, then goes into the sleeve through those 4 ports, but is there a reason that the port needs to line up?
My assumption was that the hole size was chosen to limit the max. flow rate regardless of the position of the cylinder or incoming water pressure but perhaps I was wrong.

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FotonDrv (original poster)
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#10: Post by FotonDrv (original poster) replying to arcus »

Yes, that is in relationship to the hole size, not its position.

Remember there is that valve behind the Group that is a spring loaded ball I think. I have never had it out but I thought that was for controlling the flow. My L1-P makes a groaning noise that tends to be rhythmic, like a valve opening and closing. It does not make it all the time.
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