espressoperson wrote: There's no doubt coffee rises to a peak and wanes afterward. Is there anything we can do with grind and dose (to name a couple of possible factors) to prolong the peak? As a coffee ages I need to grind finer and use more. I think this helps to prolong the peak period of enjoyment.

I've tried to plan for coffee always available at peak but my usage and choice of beans is just too variable. And to some extent, it's instructive and fun to experience the change over time. For example, I love to go through the wow of a shot on day 3 and the WOW of a shot on day 4. I'm convinced this experience helps me enjoy the shot even more than if I always drank it at peak. (Even to me this sound a little like that old marketing advice - if you can't fix it, feature it!)

Michael,

I have several thoughts following your questions. First, while it is abundantly clear that coffee peaks and declines it is also true that the decline is generally much more gradual that the climb to the peak. This is also true for wine. Today I had three more single shots from the Eth, Harar Ormonia. Like yesterday's these were also a step off the peak. But the change from yesterday to today was not the same significance as the step off the peak. Given the gradual decline I think one can indeed work on the variables you suggest.

I find that even without trying to slow the decline that I need to grind more finely as the beans age just to get the right tamp/flow. If one pushes these one will indeed get variables to work on. probably somewhat different for each coffee.

I will admit that I have become less willing to compromise on freshness. I "discovered" the centrality of freshness long before I had a decent espresso machine. It was my taste that drove me to ask whenever I bought from the local roaster, "What are the freshest beans today?" It was a long difficult struggle to get them trained to deal with this request. But now I take care of freshness myself by roasting.

My latest game is to roast side-by-side batches. This week it was two Ethiopians (Harar & Ghimbi). I have recently done two different Yemeni. Next week I anticipate two Brazils. In all of this I am done at 7 days and give the remainder away.

I can see your point about the instructiveness of a longer view of each batch. I think I am spoiled on following the peak.

I think the truth here is to pay attention to whatever you are doing and make it instructive. My watching only the peak and your watching the long view are both possible ways to learn.

KS

KarlSchneider wrote:My latest game is to roast side-by-side batches. This week it was two Ethiopians (Harar & Ghimbi). I have recently done two different Yemeni. Next week I anticipate two Brazils. In all of this I am done at 7 days and give the remainder away.

You're really pushing the SO experience with related SO pairs. I think this idea has a lot going for it. Presumably smaller and more subtle differences between two Ethiopians than between an Ethiopian and a Brazilian.

A possible extension of this method might be to try the same SO at different roast levels. Not all over the range, but bracketing the usual roast level. Would there be one best peak roast level for espresso, or would each level have unique espresso potential?

espressoperson wrote:You're really pushing the SO experience with related SO pairs. I think this idea has a lot going for it. Presumably smaller and more subtle differences between two Ethiopians than between an Ethiopian and a Brazilian.

A possible extension of this method might be to try the same SO at different roast levels. Not all over the range, but bracketing the usual roast level. Would there be one best peak roast level for espresso, or would each level have unique espresso potential?

Michael,

Yes I am intentionally pushing the SO experience. Because it re-pays the pushing. I had a great discussion with Walter about the philology of the word espressso. Using pressure to express the essence.

I had not thought of different roast levels. Next week. Just had three 6 hour after roast Brazil Faz. Santa Helena's from Sweet Maria's. Natural pulped. Pretty simple but wonderful flavors. What some have called the 'bloom of youth." Clearly blooming.

What made French wine so great was monks experimenting. And self-interest. We should do the same.

KS

espressoperson wrote:You're really pushing the SO experience with related SO pairs.

Michael,

I thought I should try to put into words at least a general description of the differences I noted between the two Ethiopians of last week. Both were dry processed. One was Ghimbi and the other an FTO Harar from Oromia Coop. Both from Sweet Maria's.

I found these two coffees quite different. The Ghimbi was a classic dry-processed Ethiopian. It had the earthy, herbal flavors one expects. The Oromia Harar was also emphatically an Ethipoian but it was something more. The best way I can think to verbalize it is to say it had great individuality that the Ghimbi did not. The Ghimbi was a perfect example of the general type. If I wanted to show someone what Ethiopian coffees are like I would choose the Ghimbi. But if I wanted a unique statement within the Ethiopian taste landscape I would choose the Harar.

Since this is under the umbrella of Lever machines and SO's I will say that to me the lever brings out, or allows one to bring out precisely the individuality I am seeking and find so emphatically in the Harar. I find myself thinking about all those haystacks Monet painted, all the self-portraits Rembrandt did, all Cezanne's still life's or all his paintings of Mont Sainte-Victoire (especially the later ones). Cezanne knew what that mountain looked like, Monet knew what a haystack looked like. But they kept going back. Because each one is so different. It is that difference the Oromia Harar has. This is what I am looking for. I have had lots of espresso blends -- especially all three from Sweet Maria's. If I want a classic espresso they are perfect. But the lever and an SO (I want to start calling them esso /essi) I can get this utterly singular taste.

When I open an extraordinary bottle of wine I choose food that is simple and gives a platform to the wine. If I want a special dish I choose a simpler wine that lets the food stand out. The Ghimbi is pure unobtrusive classicism. The Oromia Harar stands by itself.

So too, for me, does the Yemen Sana'ani SM's currently has when made as an esso.

KS

KarlSchneider wrote:Since this is under the umbrella of Lever machines and SO's I will say that to me the lever brings out, or allows one to bring out precisely the individuality I am seeking and find so emphatically in the Harar. I find myself thinking about all those haystacks Monet painted, all the self-portraits Rembrandt did, all Cezanne's still life's or all his paintings of Mont Sainte-Victoire (especially the later ones). Cezanne knew what that mountain looked like, Monet knew what a haystack looked like. But they kept going back. Because each one is so different. It is that difference the Oromia Harar has. This is what I am looking for. I have had lots of espresso blends -- especially all three from Sweet Maria's. If I want a classic espresso they are perfect. But the lever and an SO (I want to start calling them esso /essi) I can get this utterly singular taste.

Karl,

I think we have this backwards. An SO coffee should not need a special name; it's just coffee! The BLENDS need to be called what they are. This is yet another example of a retronym. Like acoustic guitar, analog watch, classic coke, we now have SO/esso coffee.

Still, if we must name it, how about nonblend (NB), varietal (V), single variety (SV). For me, the trouble with "esso" is I've been around long enough to remember it as a pre-exxon logo.

KarlSchneider wrote:When I open an extraordinary bottle of wine I choose food that is simple and gives a platform to the wine. If I want a special dish I choose a simpler wine that lets the food stand out. The Ghimbi is pure unobtrusive classicism. The Oromia Harar stands by itself.

So too, for me, does the Yemen Sana'ani SM's currently has when made as an esso.

Here's an OT question for you. If wine blends become more prevalent and more popular, what will the true SO wines be called? (I'm betting you'll have a few choice names to call the blends too )

KarlSchneider wrote:This is what I am looking for. I have had lots of espresso blends -- especially all three from Sweet Maria's. If I want a classic espresso they are perfect. But the lever and an SO (I want to start calling them esso /essi) I can get this utterly singular taste.

espressoperson wrote:Karl,

I think we have this backwards. An SO coffee should not need a special name; it's just coffee! The BLENDS need to be called what they are. This is yet another example of a retronym. Like acoustic guitar, analog watch, classic coke, we now have SO/esso coffee.

Still, if we must name it, how about nonblend (NB), varietal (V), single variety (SV). For me, the trouble with "esso" is I've been around long enough to remember it as a pre-exxon logo.

espressoperson, I love your royal "we" but think you are right that I have it wrong here. Making up a name probably helps little if any. One of my least favorite retronyms is 'Brie cheese."

I confess I am also old enough to have bought "esso" for my car.

KS

espressoperson wrote:Here's an OT question for you. If wine blends become more prevalent and more popular, what will the true SO wines be called? (I'm betting you'll have a few choice names to call the blends too )

Yes, I already have choice names for wine blends. But Dan or Steve will censor them were I to share them.

Actually in this instance wine is way ahead of espresso. Wine has a long history of experimentation. Some of the greatest wines are SO's (Barolo, Bourgogne, Hermitage) and some are blends (Bordeaux, Chinati, Rioja). But having learned where to blend and where to do SO's does not prevent bastardizations like adding cabernet to chianti to make "Super Tuscan."

"Ruining two perfectly good things in a single operation."

-- from a brochure of the Stilton producers in England on scooping out the top of stilton and pouring in port.

KS

espressoperson wrote:You're really pushing the SO experience with related SO pairs. I think this idea has a lot going for it. Presumably smaller and more subtle differences between two Ethiopians than between an Ethiopian and a Brazilian.

A possible extension of this method might be to try the same SO at different roast levels. Not all over the range, but bracketing the usual roast level. Would there be one best peak roast level for espresso, or would each level have unique espresso potential?

Michael,

Well, now you've done it! Today I roasted two batches of one of my favorite SO coffees, a Yemen Mokha Sana'ani from Sweet Maria's. I did one batch in my normal way which means a full minute into the (full rolling) second crack. This resulted in a 19.6% reduction in weight. The second batch was stopped on the verge of second crack. I heard just a very few snaps - before what I usually consider the start of second crack, but just before. This one had a 16.5 reduction in weight. Here is a pic of the two at about 1/2 hour after the finish of the later lighter roast.

I know that Yemeni do not reach their full potential for 48+ hours but I couldnot wait. Actually I usually start tasting them the first day. So with ca 6 hours on the darker one and less on the lighter ...

The first cup was using the darker roast. My grind was just a bit too coarse and I had a slightly fast flow. There was some nice mottling in the crema which had some color but not a lot. Flavor was good but not anywhere near typical Yemen peak. I hit the second grind better and had better flow time. Similar color and mottling of crema. Flavor was a good step better. Still too generic but heading in the right direction. Time to switch to the light roast.

Used the same ginder setting although i thought the lighter roast would probably come out too coarse. Actually had good 25 sec. flow, normal few drops at end of 10 sec pre-infusion. No real change in color of crema. Smell was more angular. A hint. The taste was what I would call a textbook example of what I do not like about lighter roasts in espresso. Never have. The taste was bitter and tannic. It reminded me of a Kenya and I never have met a Kenya SO i liked. Mixed 50-50 with a La Minita Kenya is for me OK but never alone. Same with this "Full City" Yemen.

I realized that I have tried many times to use a ligher roast for espresso and never liked a single one. Tom at Sweet Maria's always warns about over-roasting because, I think, that is where his palate is. But I just do not like that acidity or bitterness.

On a fourth cup (which I knew was over-extending the Elektra) I tried tamping softer and grinding finer. Out of balance and not worth really discussing.

So far I am focused on realizing that I do not like light roast espressi.

A very good learning experience. I have gone down this same path numerous times. Perhaps eventually I will remember or stop forgetting.

KS

This morning I tried yesterday's roasts again. This time as Americani which for me means ca. 14 g coffee in double basket and a double pull. I grind these more finely to compesate for the larger diameter screen of the double -- aiming at a similar flow rate to an espresso in a single basket/single pull. I guessed correctly and had just the beginning of drops after 10 sec. pre-infusion and a very good flow rate. After pulling I add hot water to a volume of 6+ oz.

I admit thinking before I tasted, "I doubt if I will like this." I expected similar bitterness and acidity in the finish like last night's espressi. Once again wrong. The taste was quite balanced by which I mean the various components worked together. Nothing sttod out and over-whelmed the other elements. The taste of stony, earthy Yemen was there, and acid and body. Quite nice cup. I guess that in 12 hours the body already has grown so much that the same acid levels of yesterday are no longer so out of harmony.

What was most conspicuous was the closed nature of the Yemen taste. It was there but so tight. This is to be expected in a still undeveloped roast. Tightness here is diffrent from intensity. It is already intense. A tightly wound rose bud comes to mind. One guesses but cannot yet see what will be revealed but senses complexity as well as intensity. Part of this is, of course, based on previous experience.

Although planning to try a dark roast Americani on the assumption of disliking the light roast, I ended up making myself a second light roast because the first was so good.

I constantly am reminded to taste what is in my mouth and not what I think will be there.

KS

KarlSchneider wrote:What was most conspicuous was the closed nature of the Yemen taste. It was there but so tight. This is to be expected in a still undeveloped roast. Tightness here is diffrent from intensity. It is already intense. A tightly wound rose bud comes to mind. One guesses but cannot yet see what will be revealed but senses complexity as well as intensity. Part of this is, of course, based on previous experience.

Karl,

That description fits. It clicked immediately with my memory of early shots.

Great set of posts. I'm looking forward to a few more days worth of development and tasting. As I read the first one I started thinking - I'm not taking the blame for subjecting you to lighter roasts. Now that I've read the second post, I guess to be fair I shouldn't claim the credit either.

I was surprised that you roasted San'ani that light (City? City+?) based on Tom's writeup. I might go this light with Ismaili but even that I usually take 20 or 30 seconds into 2nd. In any case, your experimentation seems to be paying off. This is really getting to the core of the varietal experience.

I've just realized how I've been dealing with my love for espresso and my exploration of varietals - I've separated the two. I always roast some Monkey and Donkey blend, both usually for 30 to 60 seconds into 2nd. That way I can always get my espresso fix and not be upset or deprived if the SOs don't make the grade for espresso. And I too have discovered that an Americano is a wonderful way to consume an SO even if it doesn't make an enjoyable espresso.

I constantly am reminded to taste what is in my mouth and not what I think will be there.

Amazing how often thinking gets in the way of our perceptions. That's probably why professional tasters do blind cupping.