This has been going on for years. Its hot enough (on the inside) to make it melt.
Cheap switches melt in a day and the $20 ones last a month to 3 months.

Now its DANG hot.

I just rewired it from the old post diagram, its silly simple.

It works and makes steam but it melts the contacts on the switch.

Could the power cord be passing electricity from being old?

There is just really not much inside, it has the pressure stat and fuse only!

What is the switch rated for? Can you post a picture of the switch and machine.

I forgot at the time but it was just the right rating. Its a cheap scooter switch.
It is also burning up the $23 switches but they last a few months.

I have an OHM tester and a new computer cord but wanted to check if the cord is ok or its something else.
on closer inspection the cord looks melted at the wall side.

Two suggestions, just in case something is wrong and it's drawing more current than the expected ~8 amp.

1. Be sure you're running it on a GFCI protected outlet.

2. Use your ohmmeter to check the resistance. With the machine cool and unplugged and the power switch on, you can simply check the resistance between the two plug prongs. A machine with a 1000 watt 110V element will read in the neighborhood of 12-15 ohm.* Much less than that and it would be pulling more than the expected 8 amps or so.

*My machine with the newer 1000W stainless element reads 13.9 ohm. Pulls 955 watts (8.3 amps at 115 Volts) when checked with a Kill-A-Watt.

There also seems to be rust under the base. It's hard to tell if the color in the photo is accurate. If you are getting rust and a steam leak at the PSTAT that could keep the pressure switch from cutting off early enough and could overheat your machine. But you would expect the overheating safety switch to trigger if the element is getting too hot. I would also expect to see melted covers over the quick release tabs, and that's not the case. Frayed or loose electrical connections can cause overheating, and I'm seeing a few places where those connections don't look sound. They should be gone over.

Was the machine purchased new? If used, there is a possibility someone stuck a 11V cord on a 220V machine, which would cause heating like that. The voltage should be stamped into the element base.

Also, if the damage to the one prong on the plug goes all the way to the connection at the power lead, there could be sufficient resistance to cause problems as well.

I'd check amps with a Kill-A-Watt and also address your moisture in the base problem (I keep my LP on a woven mat to provide a little bit of drying air flow).

It's difficult to tell for sure, but in the bottom photo, the cord housing looks completely gone about an inch inside from where it enters the base, with exposed, frayed wires. If that is indeed the case, it seems...suboptimal.

homeburrero wrote: Use your ohmmeter to check the resistance.

jonr wrote:I'd check amps with a Kill-A-Watt

Of course, either would do the job if you have one gadget and not the other. In my state you can check out a Kill-A-Watt meter from local libraries. Our electric utility provides them to the libraries.

hi I put in a new cheapo switch, (new one on order)
I put in a new computer cord, crimped down the ends all pretty.
I moved the unit to a new outlet (if the GFI was old)
I put in all new crimp wire connectors.
My pressure regulator responds with a nice healthy "click"

I did get this new, in 2001+ at the factory authorized dealer in Houston.

I have the OHM Fluke meter and I guess its time to learn it.

PS: IT did make a cup but the switch was HOT again.
The plastic tabs are not melted its from the wires heating up.

I do not know what more to do.

Yes the cheapo switches suck.

Also the computer cord at the wall socket is kind of warm, nothing dramatic.

I'm afraid to send this off and get it back "Working" $200 gone and it still getting hot.

Its rusty from daily use for 20+ years.