I just got this machine and am experiencing the following problems

I fill the water tank with cold water and set it up to level I. Never "sings" at this level (even after 20 min) but water does get warm. Raise it to level II and the water will boil and the pressure release valve sings. Bring it back to level I. Pull a blank shot and that's what I get - blank - no water, nothing. Raise to level II and water will come out when lever is raised. Put in the portafilter and pull a shot. No pressure and espresso does come out (very little). Espresso is luke warm at best. Frother has very little air coming out. I've also attached a video. Any ideas?
This is a pre-m model and the woman I bought it from said that she purchased around early 2001. Gaskets were never changed. She mailed it to me and didn't pack it well at all. Sort of jumped around the box (wand is now bent and machine had swiveled a bit on the base- I adjusted it back). I have also descaled with vinegar and water (50/50) twice. Also opened up the bottom to see if any wires were loose. It appeared okay. Any help would be appreciated.




Thanks, Holly

Here are a couple of videos for reference:



That's on Level I

And here are a couple of videos that might help you, since you are going to probably have to take your machine apart:




Here's a video of how things should sound as far as the steam goes and also how long it takes to heat up, etc:




Just off the top of my head, I would say your boiler elements might be bad. The "I" setting should pull about 2 amps at 120 volts, while the "II" is roughly 5 times the power, at approximately 10 amps.

Steam should be constant on level "I" and should be over powering on Level "II". You should have plenty of steam at the wand even on Level "I". The interesting thing about your video is that you hear steam on level "II", but it doesn't appear to be building up enough pressure to push water up into the group head. As long as you have the siphon tube in the machine (this is the tube that water is pushed up), then you should get some water into the group head if you have some half way decent pressure. I'm wondering if maybe either the spring on your pressure relief valve is too weak and/or there is a gasket/sealing issue which is preventing the boiler from building up pressure, even though it is generating steam on the higher setting.

On the group head (sort of where it attaches to the boiler), there is an area where steam and water can get back from the area above the cylinder and piston (this allows the piston to go up). If the seals on the piston are shot, then pressure can readily escape from the boiler by going into the upper section of the group head and then quietly slipping down around the piston and piston seals (or even up via the piston stem).

I'm guessing you have a combination of problems, although it's difficult to stay for sure.

One test I would try is this, take the main screw down cap off the boiler and fill the machine with water (to the top of the sight glass is fine). Turn the machine on to "I" and - with the cap off - measure the temperature of the water. Then do the same on the level "II" setting. If the water is getting hot and boiling, then it will at least suggest that the elements are okay and that the issue relates more to a pressure loss problem as opposed to a bad boiler element.

I would also double check the wiring, just to make sure there are no cracked wires and that the wires are connected correctly. If you check that one video above, I show the proper wiring as far as the two boilers go. It's pretty easy to trace the wires on the I/II switch machines.

Don't be scared to take apart the machine and pull the group head off, etc. As far as removing the piston, it's pretty easy. Just remove the pins from the lever (pull the E-clips off) and then remove the adjustment nut on the top of the piston rod and also the jam nut. Push down on the top of the piston rod and the piston should push the dispersion screen off the bottom of the group head (make sure you catch it! Use a little olive oil to lubricate things when you put everything back together. It's not as difficult as you may be thinking.

If you have any questions, let me know. Good luck!

Ray

Thanks so much for your advice on this. I have watched your videos a few days ago already many times I did what you suggested (filled with cold water from the frig and took the cap off) at level I after 10 minutes it was at 145 F. I waited about 10 minutes more and put my meat thermometer in and it registered at over 200 F and the water was at low rumble. I raised it to level II and water was at a very rapid boil and and the temp is also at about 205+ (my thermometer only goes that high = I should probably get a milk frother thermometer?) I will unscrew the machine a little later and look at the wires again. Also, I'm in Beijing, China and have a 220V machine from italy.

The temperatures your heater element reaches in the time you mention are not bad at all in my opinion, so you can fortunately rule out wiring problems or a faulty heater element.

Since the machine is 9 years old and running low on maintenance (a symptom often found in these kind of machines in our modern society) I would recon a proper service is in place. Take the group head apart, clean everything properly, replace all seals, and you should be good to go.

I'll check the temps on my machine and see what they read with the cap off. As mentioned above, it's probably a good idea to go through your group head and check to make sure it's clean, etc.

Ray

Ho.Ho-
Your readings seem fine. My thoughts w/ the info you provided,
Is the pressure release valve functioning properly? Pretty simple to replace and after doing that will do nothing but help. There will be either a white plastic ball and spring, you can get here or a rubber gasket inside that valve assembly, can order here . Recommend you use the type that was installed in your machine, will likely be the white ball. Don't think it's the heating element that's faulty.
Also, as mentioned previously, replace the 2 piston gaskets, 1 portafilter gasket, 1 retaining clip w/ 1 washer and 1 clear rubber piston rod gasket, and 1 grouphead to boiler gasket. Those gaskets get the most wear, no need to replace the sight glass or steam assembly seals unless they are leaking. See here for clear step by step written instructions on replacing gaskets mentioned above. There is also plenty of info here as well.

Thanks for your suggestions. I will order the parts and change the gaskets and seals. I watched the videos that Ray posted and when I lift my lever with power I no water comes and at level II water comes out but not nearly as forceful as Ray's video (for his level I). It doesn't appear that any steam is escaping from other areas...
Holly

I took the pressure release valve assembly apart and put it back together. Tried it out and this time no pressure was escaping from the release valve and when i turned the steam wand on, the pressure was extremely forceful and them my machine shut down. I could barely lift the lever. I then released more steam and was able to lift the lever and water came out of the group very forcefully. Tried to reassemble the pressure release assy again but got the same result. I'll be replacing the spring and steel ball for a spring with a plastic top. Thanks for all of your help.

Holly

Holly, did you see my video about the pressure relief valve? That might provide some inside. Be careful you don't blow up your boiler!

Ray