La Pavoni Europiccola leaking coffee into heating chamber?

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
funkmusic
Posts: 28
Joined: 8 years ago

#1: Post by funkmusic »

Dear forum,

I'm a newbie here, thanks in advance for any advice.

I'm on my second La Pavoni Europiccola machine (pre-millennium), which I bought used two years. Everything has worked fine up until recently.
When I pull a shot now, I get very little coffee, and have noticed that the water in the glass level turns brown after I pull the shot. This led me to dumping out the water from the tank a few times, which seems to be where some of the pulled shot is ending up, as that water becomes brownish (it certainly isn't that color when I add the water). Is this possible/make sense? I'm wondering if anyone else has had this problem, and whether it is a surmountable fix. I'm in the Los Angeles area and could try to find someone (suggestions welcome!) to check it out, or I could try to get all the proper tools and replacement parts and attempt it myself.

My first La Pavoni Europiccola machine (post-millennium) lasted me for a good ten years before it started to severely leak from its base and rust. However, I could also dust that off and try to repair that as well.

Many thanks!

Matt

forbeskm
Posts: 1021
Joined: 11 years ago

#2: Post by forbeskm replying to funkmusic »

Easiest fix, go get some aero press paper filters put one on top of the coffee puck before you lock it in.

I have also read it can mean your seals are going on the piston. When was it last rebuilt? Changing seals is easy to do and it's always good to pop the shower screen off every once and a while to clean along with the piston bottom. Coffee oils like to build up.

DanoM
Posts: 1375
Joined: 11 years ago

#3: Post by DanoM »

Sounds like you need a new set of seals, or possibly a new coating of DOW 111? When was the last time this machine had it's seals replaced would be my first question.

If the seals allow espresso to get around them it will wash back into the boiler. If you have good seals, but not enough sealant DOW 111 will give you a better seal that will prevent this "backwash" into the boiler.
LMWDP #445

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rpavlis
Posts: 1799
Joined: 12 years ago

#4: Post by rpavlis »

The seals need replacing from time to time, especially the bottom one. You also need to service the machine quite frequently and remove the piston and clean everything at fairly frequent intervals. Routinely look into the boiler about once a week when the machine is cold. The water should be clear and not brown. When the lower seal fails it will "give" a bit when you first start pushing the lever down. If you have never serviced the group before, you will feel more inclined to service it after seeing the hideous "gunk" that is likely to be in it, especially on the back of the dispersion screen. If you should see even the slightest deposits of calcium carbonate inside the group, you should vow to use better water in the future. Be sure to lubricate the seals with something like Dow 111. Use only a "silicone" lubricant. (But do NOT use a silicone lubricant for the external pins, use a high quality high viscosity petroleum based grease.) I would buy at least two sets of seals to have a reserve. The bottom one deteriorates faster. A bottom seal failure results in espresso going back into the boiler, a top seal results in water dripping from the group all the time the machine is under pressure. You might want to polish the walls of the group if they be metal. (Generation I and II.)

If you continue to use a machine for long periods with bad bottom seals deposits will form on the group walls that are difficult to remove. If that should happen you probably should get some "Everclear" or other 190 proof alcohol from a rum shop, drain out all water, and then add about 125 mL of the alcohol and let it stand for a few hours, sloshing it around from time to time.

Be sure to clean externally after each use. If you have a chrome machine or fake brass one, the base is highly prone to rust and corrode if not kept absolutely clean and dry. Coffee contains substantial concentrations of potassium salts, and is highly corrosive. (Even with hideously contaminated tap water the primary cation in brewed coffee is potassium.)

In my opinion, with quality water you should probably routinely service at intervals between 1 to 6 months depending on how much you use the machine. If you get massive scale, you need to use purer water. The same is true if you get any corrosion. With decent water you should not have to drain the boiler after use.

funkmusic (original poster)
Posts: 28
Joined: 8 years ago

#5: Post by funkmusic (original poster) »

Many thanks to everyone for your detailed input!
My guess is the seals should be replaced, as I've no idea when they were previously.
I know there are a few places to get them from. Any recommendations on that, as well as where to pick up Dow 111, greatly appreciated.
I will also go through and do the aforementioned recommended cleaning and maintenance. The water that's usually used to make espresso is via a Brita,
so it's basically LA tap water, for better or worse, and the machine was routinely used twice a day.

I have been relegated to drinking from an Aeropress so I do have those filters, and could try as suggested by forbeskm, just for kicks to see if that helps, (for just one last shot...).

Thanks again!

forbeskm
Posts: 1021
Joined: 11 years ago

#6: Post by forbeskm »

Stefanos espresso care or Orphan espresso. I think they both have the Dow 111. Last Dow I bought was from Cerini Coffee as I was ordering some Cremina parts.

I have had the brown water with new seals too on la pavoni's, so I just aero press filters all the time, saves cleaning the shower screen :). And I still get great tasting espresso.

funkmusic (original poster)
Posts: 28
Joined: 8 years ago

#7: Post by funkmusic (original poster) »

Many thanks for the suggestions. So I just tried using an aeropress filter on top of the coffee puck. I think it's probably irrelevant, as I was getting
absolutely no torque when pulling down the lever like I normally would, no resistance whatsoever, and the machine had been heating for at least 5 minutes, with both switches on. Also when it was heating, I didn't have the coffee basket in, and water started pouring into the drip tray, not the normal little drip I'm used to. Anyway, will order replacement parts and get on to it. Do I need any special wrench for disassembly? Thanks again!

jtrops
Posts: 500
Joined: 9 years ago

#8: Post by jtrops »

You don't meed any special tools to remove the piston and replace the gaskets. I have a steel pick that with a rounded point that i use to pull the portafilter gasket out, but that's not necessary. My machine uses a 14mm wrench on the piston rod jam nut, and if you have a hex locknut it is probably the same (my locknut is a ball with no flats).

I have replaced the lower seal without pulling the piston completely which makes the job much faster. In the future I will probably pull it to swap the seal as it was tedious, but the method works great for periodic gasket lube.

I have been using the Haynes Silicone lube that Stefano sells. I seem to remember that it was a pretty good deal for a tube that will last a very long time.

forbeskm
Posts: 1021
Joined: 11 years ago

#9: Post by forbeskm »

funkmusic wrote:Many thanks for the suggestions. So I just tried using an aeropress filter on top of the coffee puck. I think it's probably irrelevant, as I was getting
absolutely no torque when pulling down the lever like I normally would, no resistance whatsoever, and the machine had been heating for at least 5 minutes, with both switches on. Also when it was heating, I didn't have the coffee basket in, and water started pouring into the drip tray, not the normal little drip I'm used to. Anyway, will order replacement parts and get on to it. Do I need any special wrench for disassembly? Thanks again!
Definitely seals! Aeropress filter will not have any effect on your shot. It should not pour into the drip tray on heat up.

As mentioned no special tools, I just wear latex gloves to keep the dow 111 off my hands as its gunky.

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pcroque
Posts: 34
Joined: 9 years ago

#10: Post by pcroque »

There's a great step-by-step guide to servicing the La Pavoni that rpavalis posted here last year. Very clear, complete and helpful (thanks Robert):

La Pavoni levers - simplified "full service" routine

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