www.olympia-express.ch: espresso, the chemistry of love

How to adjust Elektra Microcasa a Leva pressurestat?

Postby Bushrod on Wed Sep 12, 2007 8:14 pm

This p-stat looks different from the ones I see online as a replacement part. Does anyone recognize it?

Which screw should I use to adjust it and which direction? Specifically, it's cutting out at about 1.5 bar and I'd like to adjust it down to 1.2 bar or so.

Thanks!



Image
Rich A

LMWDP #131
User avatar
Bushrod
 
Posts: 289
Joined: Feb 21, 2007
Location: Alexandria, VA

Postby augustusflavius on Thu Sep 13, 2007 11:07 am

Never saw one like that before, and I just worked on a recently purchased A Leva. My best guess is the left screw, counter-clockwise. Mark the original position first, just in case you have to back out the change. Let us know what works.

I'd like to know what its stability and life-span is? The low-profile is intriguing.

matt
augustusflavius
 
Posts: 8
Joined: Mar 21, 2007
Location: Shorewood, WI
Clive·Coffee: Great coffee at home
Clive·Coffee: Great coffee at home

Postby Bushrod on Thu Sep 13, 2007 11:25 am

Well, it's probably not the left screw. I turned it 3/4 turn and it still operates at 1.5 bar or so. The original position was all the way in.

Stability? According to the pressure gauge, it turns the heater on around 1.45 bar and turns it off around 1.55 bar. Is that what you mean?

I tried a Google search on "C1ZN3" and got nothing.

I'll try the right screw tonight and let you know how it goes.
Rich A

LMWDP #131
User avatar
Bushrod
 
Posts: 289
Joined: Feb 21, 2007
Location: Alexandria, VA

Postby civ on Thu Sep 13, 2007 11:54 am

Hello:

I think this is just a single pole double throw 16A(5)250VAC switch.
The manufacturer is RGB, see the site here:

http://www.rgb.be/indexfr.html

Can't find this specific model number.

The two small flathead brass screws are there to hold it in a fixed position with respect to the brass hexagonal bolt with the concentric plunger you see in the photo.

So to change the switch's position or replace it, you have to remove the brass screws.
Be careful to mark where it was before you do that or you'll have to recalibrate.

The brass bolt's concentric plunger is what actually turns the switch on when the pressure increases and off as it decreases.

Turning it in one sense or the other will change the pressure (probably has a spring inside) at which the plunger moves out to turn the switch off.

The position (distance, actually) of the switch's button with respect to the plunger would then regulate the delta between the 'on' and 'off' pressures.

It's not even 0.02 worth, but I hope it helps.


Best regards,

CIV
User avatar
civ
 
Posts: 161
Joined: May 30, 2007
Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina

Postby Bushrod on Thu Sep 13, 2007 12:53 pm

WOW, thanks! I found it there. It's a C1ZN general purpose plunger switch. I think the 3 at the end is their code 3 for 45 degree angle quick connect electrical fittings.

Sounds like I need to leave the brass screws the same and to adjust the brass nut to the desired pressure?
Rich A

LMWDP #131
User avatar
Bushrod
 
Posts: 289
Joined: Feb 21, 2007
Location: Alexandria, VA

Postby civ on Thu Sep 13, 2007 4:27 pm

Hello:

You're welcome.

Yes, I see no need to touch the two brass screws.
Like I said, they seem to be for holding the switch firmly in place.

As for adjusting the pressure, the only possibility seems to be the brass hex head bolt with the axial plunger that works the switch.

Never seen or used one, so I've no idea but I'm quite confident it has a spring of some sort inside and the bolt regulates the tension.

Maybe turning the bolt 20° in one direction and then back to see the difference in pressure cut off values will give you an idea.

I'm sure there are more experienced members of the forum that can give you better advise.

Best regards,

CIV
User avatar
civ
 
Posts: 161
Joined: May 30, 2007
Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina

Postby Bushrod on Thu Sep 13, 2007 10:02 pm

Thank you, civ!

It turns out I needed to adjust it out about 4 full turns. She's now cycling between 1.0 and 1.1 bar when fully warm. It seems to drop a bit as it warms and settles there. The plunger probably needs to loosen up as it warms. It's working great!


The switch is rated for 10,000,000 switches at 1 Hz. Probably last nearly forever with my usage. The list price for the black part is less than 4 Euros.
Rich A

LMWDP #131
User avatar
Bushrod
 
Posts: 289
Joined: Feb 21, 2007
Location: Alexandria, VA

Postby civ on Fri Sep 14, 2007 6:52 am

Hello:

You're welcome.
Glad I was able to be of help.

Best regards,

CIV
User avatar
civ
 
Posts: 161
Joined: May 30, 2007
Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina

Postby narc on Wed Oct 24, 2007 9:50 pm

It might be time for a new Pstat on the Elektra Micro Casa a Leva (MCaL). I unscrewed the one screw located under the drip tray. The lower plastic/rubber base did not release. Before I try using a little leverage to remove the bottom is there anything else that needs to be loosen/removed? From what I understand the pstat is connected to the boiler by a pressurestat pipe. If there is a gasket between the pstat & the pipe should it be replaced? This is a model manufactured around '00-'02. Rumors are that it does not have a manual resettable thermo safety fuse. True or False? If true, is there a resettable thermo safety fuse available?
LMWDP #151
User avatar
narc
 
Posts: 298
Joined: Oct 12, 2007
Location: bayview township

Postby HB on Wed Oct 24, 2007 10:31 pm

I merged your question with a thread on a similar subject to keep it together...

narc wrote:Before I try using a little leverage to remove the bottom is there anything else that needs to be loosen/removed?

The plastic bottom is held on by that one screw, period. You don't need to pry at it with a tool, though it will be stubborn.

narc wrote:From what I understand the pstat is connected to the boiler by a pressurestat pipe. If there is a gasket between the pstat & the pipe should it be replaced?

No, teflon tape is enough.

narc wrote:This is a model manufactured around '00-'02. Rumors are that it does not have a manual resettable thermo safety fuse. True or False? If true, is there a resettable thermo safety fuse available?

Mine was manufactured in 2003 and has a resettable safety switch. If yours doesn't, you may be able to retrofit one in. On mine it's located right next to the heating element.

Bushrod wrote:This p-stat looks different from the ones I see online as a replacement part.

Indeed, you're right, mine has a MATER pressurestat.
Dan Kehn
User avatar
HB
 
Posts: 13168
Joined: Apr 29, 2005
Location: Cary, NC

Next

Return to Lever Espresso Machines