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How do you reset the red safety switch on an Olympia Cremina?

Postby chopinhauer on Mon Nov 28, 2011 5:09 am

Hi All,

Hopefully, this question has a quick and easy answer. Somehow I fear it doesn't.

The question is how to reset the red safety switch under the machine in a 1973 Cremina. The reason I need to is that I operated the machine without any water in it. I know I know, but what's done is done. I've checked the forums and while there is lots of talk about the safety switch everybody seems to assume one knows how to reset it. Well, I don't.

OK, the facts. The machine was completely empty when I turned it on. It ran for a while then cut out, tripping the fuse for that part of the house. Anyway, after resetting the fuse and turning it on again the same thing occurred so I'm hoping simply resetting the red switch might fix the issue. The trouble is when I push the little red button under the machine nothing happens. I have taken the bottom mesh plate off and the switch doesn't seem to be touching anything. Indeed, the switch is very loose and if I press it in it simply falls out again when I turn the machine upright. Basically, I have no idea what this switch is meant to do, or how it operates.

I have checked the wires with my inexpert eyes and nothing seems fried, but I haven't really gone in the machine and am only going by the wires one can see under machine when the bottom plate is off. The light does go on briefly when I turn the machine on, but then it cuts out quickly as the fuse blows.

Anyway, I'm hoping I haven't done something to the electronics or the element. Any help appreciated.
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Postby Nik on Mon Nov 28, 2011 5:23 am

My guess is that there is close to a 100% chance that you blew the heating element by running it without water in the tank.

Drop a note to Barb/Doug at Orphanespresso. They supply heating elements for Cremina's.

Bob
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Postby chopinhauer on Mon Nov 28, 2011 6:15 am

Thanks Bob for the not such good news. I thought the red switch was meant to cause the machine to cut out BEFORE the element shorts out. I was hoping if I could reset it then I might be able to test this theory out.
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Postby orphanespresso on Mon Nov 28, 2011 6:19 am

There is a pretty good chance that the thermostatic switch itself is flaky...as you said it did not do anything. Some of the old Creminas have tstat switches that are not actually resettable, depending on the history of the machine and the big panic button is there just to give you something to do while the automatic reset switch kicks in. You need to get a multimeter, kick back, and do some tests on the machine....if Creminas were that easy to kill there would not be so many out there, a half century old and still pumping out the crema.
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Postby Nik on Mon Nov 28, 2011 6:53 am

I am sure Doug knows a lot more about the Creminas than I would ever know. Most likely the switch would trip the circuit as well. In my case it was not the switch but the element. The element looked like it had imploded.

Doug and Barb were a big help in the restoration of my '90 Cremina.
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Postby chopinhauer on Mon Nov 28, 2011 7:46 am

Thanks Doug for your quick reply.

Here is are some pics of my thermostatic safety switch:

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

So, Doug, you're suggesting that the safety switch is faulty because it didn't stop the machine from shorting. OK, so that means I probably need a new safety switch. But if it didn't stop the short circuit, then is it possible the heating element has gone as well? And other components on top of this. Is that what you mean when you suggest I should check out the machine with a manometer? Given my lack of knowledge in such matters I will have to get a friend to help me with this (and I can't even offer him one of my famous Cremina espressos as a reward).

As for the safety switch that OE sells (last pic above) do you think, Doug, that it will fit on the basis of the pics provided?. Will it fit in the hole in the base AND under the metal grate?

Thanks as usual for the help.
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Postby uscfroadie on Mon Nov 28, 2011 9:08 am

Robert,

Press the little white button between the heating element contacts. You should hear a "click". Now turn on the machine and see if it works. If not, test the heating elements resistance by touching each terminal with an electrical multimeter. You should see somewhere near 13 ohms. If that checks out, you are in good shape and may just need a new thermal reset switch - about $15 - from Barb and Doug. Y will need a few pennies to shim it up to the thickness of the original.

This link should walk you through the process of diagnosing your problem.

I highly doubt you killed it. As Barb and Doug said, if it was that easy to kill the market would be flooded with dead Creminas.

Good luck!
Merle
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Postby chopinhauer on Mon Nov 28, 2011 10:41 pm

OK, thanks for the link.

I pressed the white button, but nothing clicks. It seems pretty broken, but hey the machine is 38 years old. I will test the other components and then buy what I need from OE. Clearly I need at least a new thermostatic safety switch.
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Postby chopinhauer on Thu Dec 08, 2011 2:08 am

Hi again,

Well, I'm pretty sure the problem lies in my thermostatic safety switch, and so I've ordered a replacement from OE.

BUT I have a problem. The screw holding the valve in place is frozen solid. And I mean SOLID. Any tips for getting it out without too much destruction? The screw is the one on the left in the picture below.

Image

If I do destroy the screw and the metal attachment to the safety switch maybe this won't be a problem given the replacement part from OE seems to be held in place differently, or at least doesn't seem to have 3rd connection as with the original switch. Here is the part below. Doug if you're reading this could you tell me if this is so.

Image

Thanks for any help.
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Postby orphanespresso on Thu Dec 08, 2011 2:36 am

To remove screw - use heat - a soldering iron on the head of the screw to heat it, and a proper fitting screw driver. Your machine has the old style reset switch, which is a larger diameter than what is available today. The smaller one is held in using a small finger that goes across the top - the edge tab you have will also work, and you may need to recreate the proper orientation to move the smaller diameter switch up higher in the hole, and closer to the edge so it will be held securely. Brass or copper shims usually work well to do this.
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