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HELP La Pavoni Europiccola Electrical Issue - Page 2

Postby allon on Tue Jun 21, 2011 12:06 am

To put it into english for the non-electrictal folks...
set your multimeter to the ohms setting (Ω) - there are sometimes different ranges on a meter, sometimes listed as "200, 2K, 20K, 200K, 2M, 20M". Try it at the most sensitive (20M, in the example to the left). If there is just one setting, then it will probably autorange, and give you an M or K in the display, as appropriate. A reading of "0L" on some meters means infinite, or open circuit; a reading of 0.00 means continuity, or closed circuit. It depends on the multimeter, and you should read the manual. You might want to post which make/model you have.

Test with the probes not touching, then touch them together, just to be sure it's working.

With the machine unplugged, and the element power turned on, try measuring with one probe on the boiler and the other probe on one flat blade of the power cord. Then try between the boiler and the other flat blade. Try between each flat blade and the ground pin (if there is one). It should only show infinity (0L on some meters).

Measure resistance between the two contacts on the boiler and report back with the reading, and the setting on the multimeter; with that information, the wattage can be determined, and we can tell if the element is a 120V or 220V element.

Good luck!
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Postby orphanespresso on Tue Jun 21, 2011 4:50 am

Your GFI is throwing ....this happens when current travels through the ground wire into the GFI . When approaching an electrical diagnosis start with the plug as described above,,,,one probe to a spade and the other to the other spade, check readings for ohms. Turn switch on and off and observe. When you probe the plug spades you are getting an ohm reading for the entire circuit, which is mostly the element, or the load of the circuit. Now touch probe to plug spade and the ground on the plug. Any reading? If so, short circuit, current is flowing into the ground as indicated by the gfi trip and the reading. You start by looking at the big picture and then zoom in on the various components (and there are not many in a Europic)

To locate the short unhook the wires from the various components and test the component all by itself. If you leave the wires hooked up then you cannot isolate the short. Odds are a short in the element or possibly the machine is miswired somehow. A thorough testing with the meter avoids diagnosing with parts, as in the case of the switch. Keep at it until a light bulb goes off, it happens, and it also helps to draw a wiring diagram and stare at it to see just where the electrons are going and how they could be getting into the ground wire to trip the gfi. The gfi will not trip unless electrons are flowing into it through the ground wire so one finds the source of this electron flow into the ground and you are done.
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Postby zubinpatrick on Tue Jun 21, 2011 5:12 am

To the OP google up: basic electrical circuits, how to use a multimeter, electricity 101, etc... The wiring in a Pav is about as complex as wiring a 3way switch (easy ish), but you need basic theory to get it.
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Postby allon on Tue Jun 21, 2011 7:06 am

Nitpick here -

A gfci works by balancing the current on hot and neutral. It does not require any current on the ground wire - in fact if you have an ungrounded (two prong) plug but leak current to a ground via an alternate return path (such as a cold water pipe), the gfci will still trip.

It is possible that the neutral and ground wire are connected in the plug or on the machine. While this will work, it is poor practice and will trip the gfci.

There are also arc fault circuit interrupters (afci) designed to trip when circuits arc, such as a failing electric blanket. Such a circuit may trip if a switch arcs, such as a power switch or pstat. It is unlikely, but possible, that someone screwed up and you have an afci in your kitchen. Read what the outlet says on it.

<caveat: I am not an electrician>

<edit: some links -
http://www.codecheck.com/cc/gfci_principal.htm
http://www.thecircuitdetective.com/gfis.htm
http://www.thecircuitdetective.com/afci_circuit_breakers.htm
>
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Postby zubinpatrick on Wed Jun 22, 2011 4:50 pm

That wasn't a nitpic. Too many people only half a half baked idea of how different electrical systems work. This lead to all sorts of wiring and installation errors, by people who have been doing this for a long time. Sometimes a little theory goes a long way and can save lives.
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Postby SAS on Mon Jun 27, 2011 4:01 pm

Regarding Dougs' suggestions for finding an electrical short; how can I finding a voltage leak?
I meter 84 volts from the chassis of my Brasilia to an earthen ground (water pipe and metal sink).
If I unplug the machine, how will I find the wire or component causing the problem?
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Postby Edo on Sat May 19, 2012 4:38 am

Hi

Please post some pictures of wiring of your LP, i will be posting pictures of wiring on my LP Professional pre-millenium.

PS. let us see what you can see!!!.
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Postby HB on Sat May 19, 2012 5:14 am

Check the date of the last post... it was almost a year ago and the OP hasn't logged in since June 21st, 2011. To avoid this misstep in the future, I've added a warning that will display if the last post was more than six months ago (i.e., "You are replying to an old thread; it may be better to start a new topic or search for a related one. Do you really want to continue?").
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