I bought the 130mm. It was around 5mm longer than the original springs. On the group that somewhat works, the resistance starts between 1/2 and 2/3 the way up - but varies greatly depending on very subtle changes in grind (like one or two clicks either way). FWIW, the grinder is a 1995 LSM 90A.

I thought about the ball valve acting as a pressure release route. But, if that were the case, it seems the group would never find a point where it would work.

Looking at the Astoria parts diagram I can only suggest to make sure the non return valve(ball) and the o'rings are in good working order also ensure the adjustment screw is adjusted correctly.

I thought about the ball valve acting as a pressure release route. But, if that were the case, it seems the group would never find a point where it would work.

Sorry to post that late, but perhaps it's of a little use though ...

The ball valve pretends the water inside the group to be pressed back into the boiler before the first seal closes the inlet holes inside the cylinder - so without the valve there will be a permanent loss of shot volume and pressure at the beginning of the shot and a longer "empty" way of the lever. After the first seal of the piston has passed the inlet holes, the group will be working without the ball valve.

The adjustement screw on top of the ball lets you adjust the maximum opening of the water inlet, thus giving you an opportunity to level the inlet volume for multiple groups.

So the valve serves as one way valve as well as a flow controller and is highly recommended ...

As to the snap up of the lever: Levers are usually very depending on the grind quality - if you use a click-step grinder, 2 clicks may be the difference between running up and not running at all - especially if the coffee you are using is not freshly roasted.

If the lever snaps up the whole way regardless of the grind, chances are that the first piston seal is not fitted correctly (v shape down) in the piston. o-ring problems would also affect only the first part of the brewing process.

The 130 mm is the right spring for your group - the change to the 140 mm took place in 2001.

Best regards
Emil

I have the same machine as you from 1988. I'm rebuilding it now. How is the lever group disassembled? I see that on the very bottom of the piston assembly is a round plate with two holes in it. Does some type of tool fit in those holes to unscrew the plate? Does it unscrew clockwise or anticlockwise?

I need to replace the bearings also. Do the bearings just slide off of the spindle? I'm having trouble removing them.

Any help is much appreciated

I haven't worked on the astoria group, but normally pistons unscrew counterclockwise, looking at the bottom of the piston.A pin wrench is the tool to make it easier (google pin wrench).Sometimes you can un-screw it by hand, sometimes you need to make a jig to compress the spring.Be careful as there's alot of force in the spring.
The bearings will remove easier once the spring has been removed, and relieved the tension in the whole assembly.

The better question is, why do you want to unscrew the piston? Those holes can be generally ignored unless you are hell bent on removing the spring. The bearings are pressed on to the shafts and one can generally work them off with some sort of wedgie tool but they can become wedged themselves if you do not work them off the shafts evenly. The bearings generally only need to be changed if they are wobbly or obviously worn, otherwise they can be re packed with grease and you are good to go.

In my case I had to remove the bearings to change the worn out lever shoe

there are special tools for this purpose to avoid wedging the bearings.
You have to remove the piston (unscrew counterclockwise) to change the spring, which tends to corrode if a machine is not maintained correctly and seals harden up, which leads to water entering the spring area.

Best regards Emil

Thanks, Doug, Kitt and Emil for the quick replies. I was able to unscrew the left hand lever by hand, but the right hand lever is too rusty to do that so I'll get a pin wrench. I think the right hand spring may need to be replaced judging by the amount of rust on the bottom of the spring. I also just wanted to give them a really good cleaning. It looks like the left hand group was hardly ever used. The bearing seals on the right hand group are gone so they need to be replaced and one of the left hand bearings feels crusty.

The piston gaskets are hard and brittle. Do I just break them out of the grooves and then stretch the new ones and then slide them on? Are the bearings generic? I see EPNW sells them but $35 is steep for one bearing. Doug, do you sell all of the stuff I need to completely rebuild this machine? You've been a great help so far and I'd be happy to give you my business. I have a gas kit on the way from Astoria USA and I'll need some help or advice to install it.

Thanks again everyone for all your timely help. The Home-Barista forums are a fantastic resource.

Clint

Hi Emil,

How were you able to remove the lever pin and the bearing pin from the lever shoe? I don't know if mine are worn or they are seriously gunked up because the lever shoe doesn't rotate smoothly around the lever fork.

Hi Clint,

sorry not to have answered your question earlier, I wasn't around for a while ...

I used a tool called 'gear puller' (if I am right) to remove the bearings first:

With the bearings removed, the shoe pin comes out without hassle, especially when its bushing is worn out. This pin was held in place by the bearings sides and rotated freely.

The bearing pin (which had to be removed to change the shoe) is not totally cylindrical, but has a conical form, thus coming out only one way. You can identify the broader end by the vertical grooves around the pin on one side - this is the side it should come out to. You can use the puller to slide the shoe over the pin or use some tapping on the opposite side to get the pin out - be sure to use some scrap wood to avoid damaging the pin.

The new shoe has a bronze bushing whereas the old one was completely brass, which is supposed to wear out faster.

Best regards
Emil