Picked up this Olympia Cremina recently, supposedly from an original owner and in "perfect working order." Looks to be in pretty good shape. Got the complete gasket kit from OE and did the basic cleaning in prep of firing up and pulling a few shots. Cleaned and polished the group, portafilter, piston and installed all the group gaskets, lubed and set the piston according to OE tech tips and videos. Installed the steam valve bibb gasket and o-ring. Four hole tip and steam wand was cleaned and all looked ready. Installed the boiler cap gasket and filled the boiler and fired her up. Pulled a few shots, not bad for a first session, grind was very close, went with 15g dose, slap shot and light tamp. Pulls were about 35-40 seconds with smooth, even 30-40lb lever push.

Two main questions: Should I replace the boiler gasket? No leaks now, and when the group was off inspection showed very little scale inside and steam wand had very little also. Actually, pretty shiny inside, given a 25 YO machine. Second question: should i do the sight glass gasket upgrade? Again, no leaks now and all looks good. This series of Cremina have that steam valve issue mentioned by OE and I'm reluctant to remove as I have no issues showing. Should I wait until they appear?

Apologies for the long note but I have just a couple more questions. There are patches of I don't know what on the boiler (see ohotos). Is this normal or evidence of repair of pin hole leaks? Second question: mating surface of the group and boiler mount are also uneven and not a smooth milled surface that I would expect from the Swiss. Is this normal? The new OE viton group gasket is working well so I guess its not an issue, but just wondering.

Final one: aesthetic only, this machine has a painted black front panel while every thing I have seen/read so far show polished SS front panels. Looks original as the Max/Min indictors appear original. Is this original? Thanks for any and all input.

Hello! Glad that people are still getting good use of the OE Olympia guides and such....

I would advise to not change the boiler gasket or the sight glass seals unless you are taking it apart for some urgent reason..a don't fix it if it's not broken thing .

As far as the top of the boiler...normal brazing of the top seam. Pinholes appear at the bottom of the boiler on the sides (when they do).

The blackface is strange, but as you note the max/min lettering is there. Olympia did some of these black panels late 80's early 90's and these machines also often had a black plastic drip tray to match. Likely the case is black as well. If you were to remove the black it is likely that underneath you will find some nice chrome and not some scratched up panel...I do not know just why they made some black but I am pretty sure it is original.

The bumps on the group mounting flange are possibly plating irregularities. This piece was cast and not milled or machined and likely plated along with the boiler after it was brazed in place.

Another old Cremina back in service..congratulations!

orphanespresso wrote:Hello! Glad that people are still getting good use of the OE Olympia guides and such....

Wow! That's an understatement! Your, OE, contributions to the lever espresso world and the Cremina guides are invaluable.

Even though I don't have a Cremina, yet, thanks for all that hard work.

Yes let me echo that! Thanks OE!

Also that black Cremina looks pretty slick! You should pick up the black Hausgrind to match

Great. That is what I was hoping (and my thoughts exactly). I'd be floundering without the OE expertise, and the great info from HB. Probably afraid to ever try a Cremina, tho I so look forward to the very simplest and intimate means of pulling espresso.

One small issue with minor corrosion around the heating element leads, cleared up with 400 wet sanding and steel wool, and sealed with the OE kit.



Today, I got the lever fork shimmed (another great rec from HBers), very snug now.

Couple more quick questions: after re-install of the group screen, it snaps into the groove nicely, but is loose, it spins around easily. Is this an issue?

Looking at the OE video 41, my boiler cap is a hybrid - it is the 3-lobed one, but the plunger is like those in shown in the middle with the 7mm cap nut and slotted screw, no spring or ball-bearing. Anyway, it was spitting steam when I fired up tonite and didn't stop. Would that tiny o-ring be available locally? what material and size should I seek? Thanks

I have a 91 Cremina that is black like yours. The backside of the front black fascia is chrome, so I suspect they just spray painted the original chrome front. I kind of like the black so I left it. I would follow Doug's advice and not replace the sight glass or boiler gaskets if they're not leaking. They'll probably last another 10 years before you have to touch them. Enjoy, it's a great machine.

Still would like some feedback on the group screen spinning around and the boiler cap o-ring issue. The screen doesn't appear to cause any issues, but are replacements available? The o-ring seals up most times after a while, but I assume this causes the boiler to reach temp. Finally, looking for a source of very thin washers for the lever. thanks

I am late to the party. However, The screens of that type do often spin around. The springiness of the stainless steel makes a perfect bend every time iffy. A worn machine will spin faster, not that it matters.
I have made many replacement screens and tried them on my own machine prior to shipment.

By the way, the three lobed cap is a vent type cap. It prevents the cooling boiler water from forming a vacuum and snapping the lever up if there was any lessening of the piston lubrication.. Many a night I would awaken to a gun shot sound as the lever came up, finally Doug clued me in! I now use the vent cap all the time. A judicious, gentle, use of vinegar and a toothpick will free the spring and allow a good seal again. Rinse it well and you are good to go.
Aha! I now read that it has no spring...
Go to a plumbing supply house dealer and take it along to show what you need. A simple fix would be to use a tube of high heat Silicone, from a local Builders' supply / home depot type place, to seal the screw into place

~Richard