The machine is from France.
I am now in Iceland and water here is clear as nothing else

How can I check if the pipe to the pressurestat?

From underneath?

As someone noted earlier, the pressure gauge (manometer) seems to be malfunctioning. It should read "0" when the machine is cold. So probably the first thing to do is construct a steam wand manometer to read your actual pressure, being careful to shut it down if it goes too high. Factory setting on the Microcasa I reviewed would turn the machine on at 0.9 bar and off at 1.2 bar.

I searched for instructions on a steam wand pressure gauge and found a thread you started in June of 2014 where you were asking the exact same question. Have you been using your machine for all of that time with the pressure gauge reading incorrectly?

Steam pressure gauge stuck on used Elektra Microcasa a Leva.

I found this quote from Dan in another thread. Constructing a steam wand gauge is easy.

HB wrote:I read about a "poor man's" way of checking the steam pressure - buy a length of brake hose, two hose clamps, and a tire gauge. Clamp the tire gauge onto the steam arm and voila, instant boiler pressure reading.

Disclaimer: Hot water and steam can be dangerous, be careful! Verify the hose can handle the temperature and pressure.

When you say that the temperature keeps going up, do you mean that if left on the machine will trip its over-pressure valve at the top? If so, the root of your problem is that your pressure stat needs to be replaced. Don't confuse the pressure stat with the pressure gauge. The p-stat controls the temperature (via boiler pressure) at which the heater is switched on and off. Your p-stat is probably a Mater; you will have to remove the bottom from the machine to take a look. Replacement is a very simple fix that requires two small wrenches.

The second issue that is not causing your problem, but leading to some confusion is with your pressure gauge. It is common with these machines and with the Semiautomaticas that when the machine is switched off, the vacuum valve at the top of the machine sticks. When this happens, the pressure gauge loses its true setting. The gauge is fussy to fix, and pricey to replace, so I believe that many users just become accustomed to the new zero point. The only problem with this is that when you replace your p-stat the gauge will not be a great tool to make fine adjustments.

Mark

drgary wrote:As someone noted earlier, the pressure gauge (manometer) seems to be malfunctioning. It should read "0" when the machine is cold. So probably the first thing to do is construct a steam wand manometer to read your actual pressure, being careful to shut it down if it goes too high. Factory setting on the Microcasa I reviewed would turn the machine on at 0.9 bar and off at 1.2 bar.

I searched for instructions on a steam wand pressure gauge and found a thread you started in June of 2014 where you were asking the exact same question. Have you been using your machine for all of that time with the pressure gauge reading incorrectly?

Steam pressure gauge stuck on used Elektra Microcasa a Leva.

I found this quote from Dan in another thread. Constructing a steam wand gauge is easy.

I put it in storage as I went traveling and concentrated on my other project. A BMW 850CSI

Dogshot wrote:When you say that the temperature keeps going up, do you mean that if left on the machine will trip its over-pressure valve at the top? If so, the root of your problem is that your pressure stat needs to be replaced. Don't confuse the pressure stat with the pressure gauge. The p-stat controls the temperature (via boiler pressure) at which the heater is switched on and off. Your p-stat is probably a Mater; you will have to remove the bottom from the machine to take a look. Replacement is a very simple fix that requires two small wrenches.

The second issue that is not causing your problem, but leading to some confusion is with your pressure gauge. It is common with these machines and with the Semiautomaticas that when the machine is switched off, the vacuum valve at the top of the machine sticks. When this happens, the pressure gauge loses its true setting. The gauge is fussy to fix, and pricey to replace, so I believe that many users just become accustomed to the new zero point. The only problem with this is that when you replace your p-stat the gauge will not be a great tool to make fine adjustments.

Mark

I will order the pressure stat first. It has to be the problem.
Then I will get a cheap Pressure gauge and replace it for now with the Elektra one

Where can I order the pressurestat?

The manometer is surely a problem if the needle is reading 1.5 when cold. Might as well order that too or search this site for instructions to re-set the needle on it. When I had an MCAL with a wonky manometer I bought a new one. These machines are terrific once you have them sorted out. They hold their value well enough that you might as well get it in complete running condition.

My machine is a 1973.
Where can I get the pressurestat?

Is it possible that the pressurestat wiring was bypassed on this machine? More likely it just needs to be replaced, but check the wiring.

I looked under the machine. Maybe it needs some adjusting?

I wrote a PM suggesting that the PSTAT could be disconnected and the water port filled with 1/2 white vinegar, 1/2 water. You let it sit for 1/2 hour, then rinse clean, taking care to not wet the switch. I haven't seen a PSTAT like that before, but it looks high quality and worth trying a fix. So I'm not sure whether to disconnect it at the side toward the PSTAT tube into the boiler before the brass blocks or the place where the part with the contacts (probably the switch) connects to the brass blocks. Just because I haven't seen one of those doesn't mean it's uncommon. When you do disconnect the pressure fitting, use open end socket wrenches on the part toward the PSTAT pipe and the part toward the PSTAT. This eliminates risk of putting a kink into the pipe.