I was wondering if anyone could recommend a source(s) for heating elements. I recently bought a 220 volt Mini Gaggia I'd like to convert to 110 volt. I'd prefer not to use a voltage converter, but rather, replace the element. OE doesn't list them or I'd buy one from them.

There are many companies that supply such things, but finding one that will supply one or a few (if anyone else on this list has the same problem, we could group buy), is another matter.

Thanks,

dan

This seems like it will do the job. I have a tubing bender and it doesn't look difficult. If anyone has any suggestions as to whether this is a good idea, please let me know. It looks like it isn't too hard to replace many heating elements, bending your own, though the La Peppina seems like a difficult bend.

http://valueheat.com/bendable-tubular-immersion-heating-elements/bendable-tubular-heater-element-0-315-dia-975w-120v.html

Interesting idea Dan. You may want to research the properties of "Incoloy" - I'm not sure how food safe of a material it is.
http://www.matweb.com/search/GetMatlsByTradename.aspx?navletter=I&tn=INCOLOY%C2%AE
What's your plan for sealing around the element where it passes through the base?
You may want to give McMaster-Carr a call and see what they have. I recall seeing a similar product in a catalog they shipped me some time ago, but i can't find it on their website.

incoloy is used in potable water elements.

I have custom elements mfr locally, cost runs about US$50-150. useless info though as i'm so far away

The element comes with screws and washers that I think might provide a seal. If not, SS washers with silicone o-ring gaskets should be fine.

dan

PS. Last call for anyone to discourage me from doing this.... I'll probably order the parts early next week.

had a quick look at the spec sheet.

it will be very very hard to effect a seal under pressure. not impossible but I had a similar problem with a custom element a couple of years back and it took me hours to get it working right.

also, spec sheet does not mention an immersion rating. best to check with the supplier. i dunno if immersion heaters have thicker sheathing than air ones.

The Mini, I believe is not under pressure.

DJR wrote:I'd prefer not to use a voltage converter, but rather, replace the element. OE doesn't list them or I'd buy one from them.

OE does have a transformer 220 > 110. I have one of them and it works like a champ on the Caravels. If you want a project I suppose the "do it yourself" is OK, but the transformer is cheaper and easier.

There are two element manufacturers that come to mind; Chromalux and Watlow. They will make any heating element you can need or imagine from tiny to room sized. How much it would cost is another issue. See also ThomasNet.
KDM

Hi all,

I have the same problem with the 800w element of my 1969 Faemina. Since it is the 11v volt version, i have no chance of finding a replacement element. I would try everything to "cure" the element, I don't even know what is wrong with it, from outside it looks like new (it even has the coating intact over the copper), but as soon as I connect it, it blows the breaker.

However, there must be a possibiity to repair those elements. I grew up in a poor eastern European country, and I know that my dad used to bring broken heating elements to somebody who could "regenerate" them - so it has to exist a way of doing.

How about replacing the existing Nichrome60 coil inside the element? I ask al the tinkereres and technically inclined fellows out there to pos their ideas - and please, no advices like "buy the 220v version and an converter". That's not a challenge.

Thank you !

darius

I had a problem recently with a Cona Rex vacuum coffee maker I bought from ebay. This is one that has a small radiant heater element under the bottom pot. After a few seconds warming up it would trip the RCD ("Residual Current Device" over here - you probably know them as GFI's), and checking with a meter showed a tiny leakage of current. These items are now made of unobtainium.

I know that heaters can absorb small amounts of moisture inside the metal sheath, especially if they have not been used for a while, and trying to dry it out was worth giving it a go. So, I removed it, placed it face down over another electric heater, and switched that one on. I left the 2 like that until the faulty one was also glowing red for several minutes, and had heard a few spits and cracks in the meantime.

After cooling, re-checked with the meter. The resistance was just about what it should be for the defined wattage, and now there was no trace of any leakage.

Works fine now.

Bear in mind, this is a radiant heater, not a water heater, and the same process may not be appropriate, but if it isn't working anyway, if you can remove it is is definitely worth a try. A meter isn't essential but very helpful by the way.