Olympia Cremina 2012 - very tight steam valve

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chopinhauer
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#1: Post by chopinhauer »

I just replaced the bib gasket and the larger of the O-rings for the first time in my 3.5 year old 2012 Cremina. (The new Cremina/Maximatic steam valve comes with two O-rings a larger and smaller, but I only had the larger one in my maintenance kit). Anyway, the long and short of it is that now the articulation of the steam valve is very tight and within a very narrow band. By this I mean it goes from zero to full-on (or close to full-on since it is hard to know if I am getting full power) in only a turn or two. It used to have much more play in the valve allowing one to control the steam pressure. Something is not right.

I never get this problem when changing the bib washer and gasket in my 1974 Cremina, but still I doubt the problem is due to any difference between the steam valves in the the two machines. I think it is something to do with the way I installed the bib washer. I have checked and rechecked and the screw in the washer seems to be not too far in, nor is it sticking out from the surface.

In advance, it can't be because of not enough lube, as I put the recommended amount of Dow 111 on and around the new O-ring and the smaller old one too. To me it has something to do with the bib washer or the fact that I didn't change the second smaller O-ring. Or that the bib washer I used is faulty, or I made it faulty by screwing it in too deep or not deep enough. (I have now sent off to Cerini for a few sets of what they call 'steam valve rebuild kit'. These include the smaller washer). Or maybe the 17mm nut is on too tight (or too lose). Certainly, Doug in his OE video has it on fairly tightly.

Any (other) suggestions or ideas. I'm stumped.
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orphanespresso
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#2: Post by orphanespresso »

I do like Olympia puzzlers....
The bib screw should be seated in the metal, it will stop all by itself. The head should bury itself slightly in the seal and appear flat accross the seal surface.
The 17 mm should be tight. Neither o rings should effect the travel of the thread. The big one seals the shaft and the small one prevents wobbly shaft at the nut...it does not actually seal much. The nut should be tightened with the valve closed.
The bib washer should rise above the edge of the cup about 1/2 to 1 mm all around. The brass cup should spin freely but not wobble. Viton bib is softer and will conform to the seat while EPDM is harder and takes a while to get a conformation indent in the surface.
The model 67 valve assembly and the 2012 are identical and interchangeable.
That's all I know.

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chopinhauer (original poster)
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#3: Post by chopinhauer (original poster) »

Thanks for the checklist Doug. You've narrowed down the problem to the bib washer which, it seems, I might have somehow put in wrongly. Sure, I've done this before but maybe this time I was careless.

I remember when the machine was new the steam valve was a bit tight too, but then I simply put some more lube on the O-rings and all was well. Anyway, I'll give it a go for another week and if things don't loosen up a bit I will put a new bib washer in. I still have a couple left from the days when OE used to sell them and added to this I recently put in an order for a few more from Cerini.
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chopinhauer (original poster)
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#4: Post by chopinhauer (original poster) »

OK, it's been another week or so and the steam valve is definitely opening up a bit more. It is still doesn't have the full range I'd expect but it might be getting there. I'll report back if it does get back to where I'd expect it to be, which could be useful for others who experience similar issues when replacing the bib washer.
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chopinhauer (original poster)
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#5: Post by chopinhauer (original poster) »

OK, just to conclude this thread.

My steam valve never really openned up so I bit the bullet and put a new bib washer in. The difference between the new one I just put in is that I purchased it from Cerini which they say is OEM for the 2012 Cremina. The problematic bib washer was one I purchased from OE years and years ago and forget now if it was OEM (for the Cremina 67) or custom designed by OE. In any case, the Cerini one works perfectly, whereas I could never get the OE one to work well with the 2012 Cremina. (I put numerous of those in my 67 Cremina and they work perfectly there). On looking at the two bib washers there are minor differences, but I guess these translate into major effects.

So, the upshot, my steam valve now works perfectly again but this time with a OEM 2012 bib washer from Cerini (vis a vis the older 67 type bib washer). So I suggest new Cremina owners use the new OEM bib washer and related steam valve gaskets.
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orphanespresso
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#6: Post by orphanespresso »

Glad you got it worked out.
Years and years ago I made those bib washers by hand, literally. I cut them from viton cord stock using a razor blade and then drilled a hole in the approximate center with a small drill press....so there was a lot of room for shall I say, variance. For the past 2 years or so we have them made from a mold and even though people like hand made things, rubber washers are much better made by machine. We have not had any issues or complaints during the sat 2 years and from what I have observed the current part fits all of the Olympia valves regardless of model/year.