Conti Prestina, The Netherlands - Page 6

A haven dedicated to manual espresso machine aficionados.
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mogogear
Posts: 1477
Joined: 18 years ago

#51: Post by mogogear »

good to know, but as luck would have it I am committed elsewhere. I will check back and see how the chips fall!! Good luck!!
greg moore

Leverwright
LMWDP #067

turboyeast (original poster)
Posts: 143
Joined: 11 years ago

#52: Post by turboyeast (original poster) »

mogogear wrote:The lever linkage was a work of engineering art !!
I absolutely agree... :D

The frameparts are back from powdercoating. Great! The bridge which will support the pressurestat is really strong.
Although I didn't have much time, I couldn't resist putting some parts together. This is such a rewarding process and very much like putting a new machine together. The boilerplate has been hardchromed and can resist another couple of decades. All studs, bolts etc are made of highgrade stainless steel...next step is installation of the inletvalve soon to be followed by the electrics.
Cheers, TY



turboyeast (original poster)
Posts: 143
Joined: 11 years ago

#53: Post by turboyeast (original poster) »

LS,
I have been making new progress. It costed me a while to obtain all the O-rings and other fittings. Most of the gaskets have been made of Teflon which is a great material. Some Teflon rings were a bit to tight and I helped them a bit with sanding paper.
Next, is the electrics...also my weakest point... :oops:
Cheers, TY

Overall progress...


Detail of the solenoid valve/automatic water inlet


Detail of Teflon o-ring sealing heating element


Detail of Teflon gasket sealing top sightglass holder


Detail of rubber gasket sealing the sightglass


Sightglass in place... :D

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arcus
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#54: Post by arcus »

Great work! It's really coming along nicely. I can't wait to see the finished product as I've always loved the looks of these machines and hope to get one one day too.

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drgary
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#55: Post by drgary »

turboyeast wrote: Next, is the electrics...also my weakest point... :oops:
Great work so far!

The electrical work can seem intimidating but it's not hard once you get down to it. If you need pointers feel free to PM me.
Gary
LMWDP#308

What I WOULD do for a good cup of coffee!

turboyeast (original poster)
Posts: 143
Joined: 11 years ago

#56: Post by turboyeast (original poster) »

LS,
Thanks for the support, really appreciated.
At present, I am ploughing myself through the electrics. For an expert most probably a piece of cake, but for a novice such as myself a serious challenge. Once the electrics are done, it is time to mount the group...great fun!!!! :D
Cheers, TY



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drgary
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#57: Post by drgary »

While you're assembling the electrics, I see the water and steam taps mounted. You will probably find that as you tighten them down they tend to swivel. A good solution I've found for that is to use a medium strength thread locker backed by some thread sealer at the main joints where they can turn. In other words, I apply the thread sealer to the deeper part of the thread. This fills the gaps to help prevent leaks over time. I apply the thread locker on the outer part of the thread to hold it in place.
Gary
LMWDP#308

What I WOULD do for a good cup of coffee!

turboyeast (original poster)
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#58: Post by turboyeast (original poster) »

[quote="drgary"]You will probably find that as you tighten them down they tend to swivel.

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drgary
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#59: Post by drgary »

That's a nice, clean restoration.

Feels great when it starts up, doesn't it?

The anti-vac valve will sputter. That means it's working. I attached a drain hose to mine so it drains into the drip tray.
Gary
LMWDP#308

What I WOULD do for a good cup of coffee!

turboyeast (original poster)
Posts: 143
Joined: 11 years ago

#60: Post by turboyeast (original poster) »

drgary wrote:Feels great when it start up, doesn't it?
Orgasmic... :D

I have decided to replace the safetyvalve...I feel uncomfortable fiddling with such a critical component. In addition, I will replace the vacbreaker with a model that has a drainhose (good suggestion Gary).

I would like to have some input on the optimal boiler pressure. For my pumpbased (hx)machines I am used to set the pstat at 1.2 bar, but this might be very different for this leverbased (dipper)machine. Input is very much appreciated.
Cheers, TY