Conti Monaco 2 Group Restoration

#1: Post by **espress_o** » September 29th, 2014, 5:46 pm

Hello everybody,

First time HB user, long time HB reader. Today, I joined the Lever espresso community. Via eBay, I purchased a Conti Monaco 2 group.

According to the seller, the machine was in use at their home and was pulling great shots. The reason for selling the machine was because they are moving to Europe (from Brooklyn, NY), seeing the images and having read specifically about Conti lever machines on here - I knew I'd want to give the machine a bit of a restoration and maintenance before I started to use it regularly.

After plenty of emails, phone calls, and long conversations with the seller, I was somewhat confident he would pack the machine properly.. I even sent him a few threads on HB, explaining how to go exactly about it. We both agreed the machine was special to both of us and he would try to follow some advise from the experiences of this forum.

We used UPS to ship (total nightmare to deal with) - and even paid the additional fee for "extra" handling (UPS will be receiving a letter from me).. here is what came at the door - no knock either, just a drop-n-run for the UPS man. (notice the ignored signs on the package)

After getting the machine in place, here it is -

I've been keeping an eye on a few current restoration projects with newer/same conti models.

Larry's
Repurposing a conti commercial lever

Karl's
New Project... Conti 2 Group Lever

JayCan's
Conti Monaco Restoration

I've even read most if not all of drgary's amazing adventures
Conti Prestina Espresso Machine Restoration 101 (Completed and Indexed)

Upon removing the group heads, the inevitable happened - A bolt snapped right off.

This is where I'm at, I don't think I've seen this particular issue on the forum (buried snapped bolt on the group head) or if I have, I can't reference where I saw it. I'm investigating.

This is my first attempt restoring anything like this.

So here is the first question: The group heads should come off at this point, right? There are no nuts keeping them locked into the boiler, however they are beyond my strength to pull off. Is this where a some heat would help me? I imagine the heads are going to need to come off so I can deal with the bolt issue and replace the other bolts, right?

Here are a few more shots I was able to take before I started this post, mainly other areas of concern:

Seemingly bent valves - potentially from poor packing and shipping.

Pressure gauge

Level Glass

Bent power switch?

Thanks for taking the time to read, and hopefully anyone willing will chime in.

Andrew

September 30th, 2014, 3:46 am

After revisiting a few threads here, seems like a mallet should do the trick to get the group heads off.

I think its going to be inevitable that i'll eventually buy a propane torch.. Heat looks like a good option for stuck bolts. Hopefully I can wait a little longer to buy one.

Now, where's my mallet?

September 30th, 2014, 11:44 am

The mallet is what I would have reached for. I think you are going to want some heat. I used an acetylene torch to heat the area around the stud and was able to get all but a couple out with the vise grips. I haven't had much luck with easy outs in this kind of scenario, the others were drilled and then tapped, which isn't too bad if you are patient.

The bent steam and water valves should come back into shape with a little heat as well. I buy a lot of home machines on ebay and almost every one is damaged in shipping, people do not get it.

Welcome to the lever world!

October 1st, 2014, 2:16 am

Thanks, Larry.

I was able to get one group head off using a rubber mallet. The other one is on real tight, I'm going to use some heat but before I try a torch I'm going try this stuff for a day or two and give it another bang with the mallet.

Other than that, most of the copper fittings are removed from the boiler.

I'll be back with pictures and updates in the next day or two.

October 1st, 2014, 11:49 am

I have also used a thin blade to split the fiber gasket. One just has to be careful the blade is only cutting the gasket material.

October 1st, 2014, 5:08 pm

A little update, the other group head came off with a series of whacks with the rubber mallet. No heat yet.

Most of the fittings are off and about to take a bath.

Ive been looking around and asking around for a decent chrome plating shop in my area. Gonna get the heads done as I've been inspired by other pistomatic conti groups that looked great after they were chromed.

Tonight, the rest of the bolts that seem tough are getting a PB Blast treatment.

I was able to take a peek into the boiler, looks surprisingly clean.

#7: Post by **drgary** » October 3rd, 2014, 9:42 pm

Hi Andrew:

Glad you're having your adventures with a two-headed Prestina! I would have said get out the mallet right away, but you're there already.

If your machine is indeed like a Prestina the groups are held onto the boiler with studs, not bolts. Jaycan came over to my house, heated the stud mounts with a torch to expand them and turned the studs out from the other side with vise grip pliers. To do this he got inside the boiler. With a Prestina this was a faceplate that had been removed. Getting inside your boiler may be more challenging, and if the back side of the mounts can't be reached that way it's not unusual to heat the studs themselves and grip them to turn them out. Doug Garrott said that method is called a "Detroit wrench."

Your steam and water tap valves look like mine. They may still work just fine, even if they appear a little bent. At least that's the way it is with my Prestina, which is still serving me well.

#8: Post by **drgary** » October 3rd, 2014, 9:55 pm

I just looked at Jaycan's Conti Monaco restoration thread again. And that's just what he did. He heated the studs from the outside to extract them. But the first attempt failed and others after that. He was able to get the studs out, and his thread beautifully documents how he did that, starting here. He's a very experienced blacksmith and that thread is a must read for someone dealing with stuck bolts. I hope it goes easier for you, as it did with me.

October 4th, 2014, 5:25 pm

Hi Gary,

Thanks for checking in. The past few days I've been using your thread and Jaycan's thread as a guide to really think about the best way to remove stuck bolts and studs.

As of now, the boiler is separated from the frame, all fittings are off as well, accept the sirai. I've been periodically hitting the bolts and studs with PB Blaster and scraping off rust with a wire bristled brush.. I'm hopefully going to a friends custom furniture shop soon to use a few tools he has to help with removing tuff studs and bolts. I think he has all the tools required for potential fail options.

I have an air compressor at home, is it crazy to think an air impact rachet gun could do the trick on the boiler bolts? I don't have one yet.. But if they make it happen I would pick one up.

Here is the boiler, totally filthy at the moment.. As soon as the element, bolts, and studs are removed, I'll be sanding and bathing it.

#10: Post by **drgary** » October 4th, 2014, 5:53 pm

Not crazy to think the air ratchet gun might work, but I wouldn't try that. Applying excessive force to stuck bolts breaks them. Better to gently tap handle of wrench with mallet.