Commercial levers vs. profiling pump machines - a call for a shootout

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bostonbuzz
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#1: Post by bostonbuzz »

I'm really interested in what can draw out the most flavors in a cup. I had a shot of rustico from a manual paddle strada that was simply amazing - a bouquet of flowers, blueberry, etc. From my perspective, it was a god shot. The sort of shot that you will almost never get from a cafe that is remotely busy - everything must be dialed in to absolute perfection.

As a calibration, talking about espresso being awful, fine, good, and amazing. 3rd wave cafes are fine to good given a random walk-up shot IMHO. It's rare to get strong fruit and anything much beyond a not-burnt-coffee-flavor (+ a little hint of something). I know this is harsh, but it is my honest experience touring the best cafes in Boston and NYC. They can't take the time to get to perfection, and nobody is presuming that they can. I'm just using this as an example of the shot I'm NOT talking about. I'm concerned with perfect shots.

1. For purposes of home use, I'm wondering if I can pull a shot that will expose as many flavors out of a coffee with a commercial lever as I got from that perfect strada shot. I'm convinced that straight pressure cannot do this given my years of use of a HX and double boiler E-61 machine.

2. If god shots are possible, which machine can give the greatest ratio of attempted shots to god shots, commercial levers, or profiling pumps? Thanks for your informed answers. Please don't take anything above to be incendiary, I did not mean it to be, and I don't want to talk much about quality problems inherent with all cafes.

3. Assuming 1= yes, 2= maybe, we should organize a shoot-off somewhere. I don't recall any shot-to-shot comparisons of dialed in commercial levers and profiling pumps. I'm thinking levers (strega, L1, more commercial) and pumps (strada, slayer, etc.).
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Paolo
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#2: Post by Paolo »

An interesting idea...and one that has been going on in the back of my mind for a while now...

Whilst I thoroughly enjoy the majesty and process of making a great lever shot, at the risk of sounding like a heretic on this lever forum (and if I am really honest with myself), I suspect that there is an element of embellished folklore regarding the actual quality of a lever shot.

I have used both domestic and commercial lever machines as my main machines for several years now....as well as a modified LM Linea....and I am sitting on the fence here.

It would be interesting to throw some top-line pump machines (non-pressure-profiling) into the mix too.

I would really be interested in seeing a shootout happen.

espressotime
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#3: Post by espressotime »

Lucky guy you are sir.
I've never tasted blueberry or other fruits in any espresso I had in the last 20 years or so.
Not in a specialized espressoshop an a Kvdw Idro nor on any of my machines at home.
And I have all kind of fruits in my garden so I do know how they taste.
Maybe someday...

cafebmw
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#4: Post by cafebmw »

what was the pressure profile on the strada for your godshot?
i played around a little bit on the strada mp a few years back (strada #3 in NYC) trying out pressure profiling. i found it quite difficult as the pressure/pedal angle function curve was quite steep, something like 9 bars over the given 30 degrees. it was almost impossible to repeat profiles. i think that's where the strada ep comes in. i never had the chance to play with it though.

fact is that for the same coffee the result on pump resp. lever machines will be different.
the design-inherent pressure profile of a lever machine (pre-infusion with boiler pressure, extraction starting with around 9 bar and diminishing towards zero, besides residual pressure due to trapped air, over the time of extraction) seems to be close to a optimal profile.

here an interesting read a while ago on james hoffmann's blog: http://www.jimseven.com/2011/02/08/cont ... profiling/.

donn
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#5: Post by donn »

espressotime wrote:Lucky guy you are sir.
I've never tasted blueberry or other fruits in any espresso I had in the last 20 years or so.
Not in a specialized espressoshop an a Kvdw Idro nor on any of my machines at home.
And I have all kind of fruits in my garden so I do know how they taste.
Maybe someday...
Would you consider using a dry process Ethiopian, single origin or at least major component? Honestly the fruit thing with Ethiopians has been more elusive for me in recent years for some reason - particularly the Sidamo apricot thing - but you ought to be able to turn up a blueberry infested Harar without too much trouble.

espressotime
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#6: Post by espressotime replying to donn »

I've tried Ethiopians as a single but no blue blueberries .
Maybe it's my palate.
Honey,caramels and chocolates I taste on a regular base.

pacificmanitou
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#7: Post by pacificmanitou »

Recently my favorite cafe started using a blend that I'm very familiar with, and have used at work and home. It's very fruit forward, bright, and crisp. There's often a dominant fruit taste. At work they have a NS maxi+SJ, and the shop has a LM Linea+Robur. Out of all the shots I've had of this blend, my favorite came from my home lever and a Baratza vario. My conclusion is that the lever profile has something to do with it. I know that its pulled properly at the cafe, and I know I do it right at work, so the only variable of note is the machine.
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drgary
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#8: Post by drgary »

bostonbuzz wrote:1. For purposes of home use, I'm wondering if I can pull a shot that will expose as many flavors out of a coffee with a commercial lever as I got from that perfect strada shot. I'm convinced that straight pressure cannot do this given my years of use of a HX and double boiler E-61 machine.

2. If god shots are possible, which machine can give the greatest ratio of attempted shots to god shots, commercial levers, or profiling pumps? Thanks for your informed answers. Please don't take anything above to be incendiary, I did not mean it to be, and I don't want to talk much about quality problems inherent with all cafes.

3. Assuming 1= yes, 2= maybe, we should organize a shoot-off somewhere. I don't recall any shot-to-shot comparisons of dialed in commercial levers and profiling pumps. I'm thinking levers (strega, L1, more commercial) and pumps (strada, slayer, etc.).
I know what you mean about the richness and flavor separation in a state-of-the-art pressure profiling pump machine. But so much has to do with barista skills. My local coffee bar only excels to the level you describe when their most skilled barista is pulling shots. Other shots with the same coffee and machine are like the typical third wave experience you described.

My first guess is the Strega is as capable as a pressure profiling pump machine because of its hybrid pump and lever combination, while machines like the Strada and Slayer optimize that capability for a high traffic environment. A commercial lever where you can assist the lever may be similarly capable.

I've gotten stunning shots out of the Conti Prestina but rarely use it for one coffee that's dialed day after day. You can assist the lever on the Prestina and some others. You can retard the lever on any such machine. The Prestina gets more flavor separation than my home levers, including the Cremina. What would cause this difference? Is greater flavor separation than a home lever because of the wider, flatter coffee cake? My Isomac Amica E61 group machine created consistent delicious shots but flavors were more merged than with the Prestina. Both have a 58 mm group but the E61 group has a thermosyphon to heat it.

I'd be interested in comparing the Prestina to a Strega to learn if the Strega's high pressure pumped preinfusion can be imitated by pushing the lever. Some coffees benefit from high initial pressure, others are softened nicely by lower starting pressure than most pump machines. For other coffees softness can be at the expense of delineating some flavors. Here is where pushing the lever could help or where a commercial lever with a stronger spring than the Prestina would be ideal. Also declining pressure of a spring lever tends to minimize overextraction.

Added: My incorrect speculation is lined out after Jean-Pierre caught the error. :mrgreen:

Another issue may be temperature range and whether the temperature climbs or declines during the shot. The Prestina's signature shot has a fairly large temperature decline from start to finish, but I've never used it for enough back-to-back shots to heat that 18 lb. group for smaller temperature variation. I expect those high end pump machines have group temperature that's closer to the boiler water temperature, but I may be wrong.

I also wonder if the Prestina's advantage over home levers may be due to the temperature decline during the shot compared to temperature rise in a home lever? Higher start temperatures may extract the brighter and floral flavor notes first. (Not! My error is considering the temperature measurement outside the group.)

Applying barista skills to a particular coffee would be critical to optimize variables of temperature, pressure, flow rate, and extraction ratio.

The question I would add is whether there's much difference between a commercial lever and a high end pump machine with a skilled barista optimizing each.
Gary
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What I WOULD do for a good cup of coffee!

jptvelo
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#9: Post by jptvelo »

drgary wrote:I also wonder if the Prestina's advantage over home levers may be due to the temperature decline during the shot compared to temperature rise in a home lever?
What temperature rise in a home lever? Your own MCAL temperature study shows a temperature decline:
Elektra Microcasa a Leva Explored with a Group Thermometer

I don't know enough about different machines to make generalizations, but for both the Caravel and the MCAL the following is true: when you pull (spring) / lift (manual) the lever, hot water enters the piston chamber. This is the hottest water that the coffee will see. When the piston starts pushing this water onto the coffee bed, there's no more water coming from the boiler, and the water that's being pushed can only get cooler. The size and temperature of the group will dictate the temperature profile.

I would expect this to hold for all levers?

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drgary
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#10: Post by drgary »

Good catch. I was pondering that late at night while thinking about the measurements I see on the outside of a home lever group. I'll correct myself. The temperature drop during the pull may be smaller on a home lever because the less massive group heats faster. You might also would have a narrower temperature range throughout the pull unless you cool the group or portafilter between shots.

In the commercial lever temperature thread some machines showed less temperature drop than the Prestina.

The temperature profile of a commercial lever group
Gary
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What I WOULD do for a good cup of coffee!

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