beer&mathematics wrote:Thanks for chiming in Dr. Gary -- I'm reading your thread as I go but I'm also slow ... Only on page 17

I appreciate that difficulty. I indexed it one Page 1 so people with beginner restoration issues like those I faced can reference the advice I was given and see the problem-solving process. But back to your restoration. You've taken on quite a project. As you document how you puzzle it through it becomes a reference for others.

Thanks Dr. Gary I needed a moral boost also your thread is amazing and maybe I should take advantage of that fancy index (which must have been lots of work).

Here are the only markings found on the machine, on the heating element:


This filter gave the best contrast... I see 110V, 1200w and that's about it... What do you see?

Calrod appears to be the element manufacturer and 916 may be the part number.

Oh, calrod I see it. Maybe I see 9-12 tiny dash?

I think it's just 912. The dash isn't centered horizontally, so it looks like a nick. Added: And a quick online search suggests that calrod may be a type of heating element rather than a particular manufacturer.

A bit more progress. Cleaned the frame and front face plate with Joeglo but forgot about it and the 'vapore' and 'Aqua' came off

Can't figure out how to remove the funky pressurestat so the boiler is in a citric bath with that part not submerged.

The MCAL piston V seals although tiny looking compared to the dry and broken originals will probably fit since they are very pliable. Crossing my fingers.

Hope it's as easy to put it back together as it was to take it apart. Wish me luck tomorrow when I attempt it.

I did bad and broke the plastic doo-hickee.




Can someone explain what it is and also that smaller round thing sticking out next to it? Also, I'm guessing to remove this stuff will just require old fashioned brute force but I don't think I have the tools to remove it.

In the mean time, does anyone know which one of these pressurestats is the right one to replace?



Thanks in advance friends!

I guess the small unit is a thermal cutoff - looks like the ones used by Ponte Vecchio - 1rst line, among others, probably sells then. They are simply tapped into the brass of the boiler with a small screw, and cut off the circuit if the boiler gets too hot, normally only when boiled dry I guess. They may only function one time, at least that's what happened to my PV Export.

The problem is if you damage it taking it out, and can't find a proper sized replacement, you'll need to rewire without it. It should have been wired in simply as a series switch along one lead from the power to the element. If it trips it breaks that lead. So it's easy to bypass although certainly not recommended. I suppose the threads will be the same as the new ones PV uses.

The Pstat is another matter (not necessarily Mater). You do need to replace that. A little rust solvent around the base of the screw daily over a 1-2 week period might help. It looks like it has a wrench head that should be accessible with a thin box wrench - have you tried that yet. It just unscrews, I think in the normal direction (counter clockwise), and it may just come out without too much force.

Modern PVs just use the Mater at the top of your photo, and I've also used that first CEME for a Sama Export because they fit better in that tight space. My PV export had the original Mater for years until I melted it down (the thermal cutoff failed that time, after it had be reset). There may be better ones out there in terms of performance, so hopefully others will chime in on that. In general the Mater seems fine though,

PC

I believe your machine originally just had a Sopac pstat like this:



Eventually I wanted my Family to run a bit cooler and replaced the Sopac with a Mater.

If wanting to replace with original equipment, the same Sopac PSTAT is now a Jaeger.