Astoria commercial lever machine restoration/modification - Page 3

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
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sorrentinacoffee
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#21: Post by sorrentinacoffee »

hmm, it really is too early to comment- as you say once tied in with a cup tray - this could really work. Kind of like a Dieter Rams 70's White Braun lever... you will need this stereo to go with it:

http://matthewbuchanan.name/post/699270 ... -audio-one

But I must say I preferred the shape of your mock up- jutting out at the top... gave the machine a 50's (back to the) futuristic edge also I would also prefer a metallic finish to the look of plastic. I think these machine are marvels of mid-century mechanics: metal and chrome. Raw plastic like that is anathema to me for these machines... I don't really like the look of the 70's italcrems with red plastic lever handles (well actually they are OK- just not my favourites). Bakelite and Perspex- should be the plastics. :roll:

it could be nice with hammertone panels at the two ends? A bit like the panels on Paul's Lambro. I just love how the gold, pale blue hammertone and chrome all go together on this machine. I am definitely going to have my Lambro side panels repainted from flat red to blue like this:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/paul_pratt/524555755/

perfectwheels (original poster)
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#22: Post by perfectwheels (original poster) »

Thanks for the comments about the surround. :)

I agree that some of the stock Astoria machines are pretty nice looking, I just thought mine was particularly not. My first thoughts were to just have it painted but then I came across some photos of machines with the groups exposed and it was all over.

I liked the jutting at the top as well but decided to go back to the sketch and have it come out at the bottom. Things are pretty busy in the front of the machine with all the chrome and copper exposed so my thought was to reduce some of the competing design elements. Also, the machine will be installed with the back against a wall so jutting in that direction was going to become a counter space concern.

Color would be nice, if I hadn't come across this $20 piece of plastic I would be scouring craigslist for some cheap plate aluminum that could be powder coated. In fact I will probably be doing that regardless.

Anyway, I have some reservations about this direction as well. I'm going to build the cup rail, put the groups back on and make a decision then.

Jack,
I used to have a pretty cool Rotel receiver in the shop but it went on the fritz. After three failed trips to the shop I had to give up on it. Nothing like the Dieter Rams machine though.



The blue hammertone is beautiful....similar to the fjord blue on my Bavaria.

Off to work,

Larry-

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sorrentinacoffee
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#23: Post by sorrentinacoffee »

That's a coincidence- just this tuesday I saw my friend and he had just found a Rotel amp exactly like yours for his studio. $80 at an estate sale...

whatever you end up doing I have a feeling it is going to look great- and a lot better than when you started. Good luck. :)

perfectwheels (original poster)
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#24: Post by perfectwheels (original poster) »

Ok, I had bikes to work on all week but today I got back to the machine and built the cup rack.



I forgot to take pictures when I was building the base...had to drill and tap a couple of times to get it where I wanted it.





This architectural detail is the result of the classic one inch mistake...



The torch works well for bending the rail.



My attention to detail is sometimes a little rushed but it came out pretty square. Just keep the machinist square at home.



I actually used my adjustable angle to match the other side.



The hot water wand is off center...making my detail seem odd.



Tomorrow I'll take it apart again and drop it off for the powder coat work. The next part of the project is building a new counter so it has a place to live in the shop.

Larry-

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erics
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#25: Post by erics »

That's a beautiful and innovative job you have accomplished.

Did you replace the springs? I would have used some blue Loctite on the piston shaft threads instead of grease. You don't want to make it that easy to "come apart".

One minor comment - those steam valve shafts look like they are asking to be bent when someone takes the wrong step one day.
Skål,

Eric S.
http://users.rcn.com/erics/
E-mail: erics at rcn dot com

perfectwheels (original poster)
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#26: Post by perfectwheels (original poster) »

Thanks Eric,

I have new springs on the way, and will install them later this week :).

I'm not sure I agree with using loctite. I often use it when there are twisting or side loads on smaller bolts but quite infrequently in this sort of situation, lots of threads, large diameter bolts and only a tension force in one direction. I also think that it may be hard to get apart in the future without using heat which may be bad for the tempered spring. Anyway, that is my thinking.

Sky is going to get me some shorter valve shafts for the final assembly. I wanted to move the handles in for aesthetic reasons but exposure to getting bent is a good point.

Larry-

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drgary
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#27: Post by drgary »

perfectwheels wrote:I'm not sure I agree with using loctite. I often use it when there are twisting or side loads on smaller bolts but quite infrequently in this sort of situation, lots of threads, large diameter bolts and only a tension force in one direction. I also think that it may be hard to get apart in the future without using heat which may be bad for the tempered spring. Anyway, that is my thinking.
Nice to see this coming together and it's looking so much better than the original box.

I've been going back and forth about Loctite versus PTFE tape and even checking into different Loctites. There are some that are designed for a medium strength hold so that you can loosen their grip with hand tools. Each different Loctite has a spec sheet about this. I would not use Loctite 567 as I've found it seals the threads (as designed) and doesn't hold them firmly enough (it's not a thread locker) on my commercial lever steam tap. It also smells funny.
Gary
LMWDP#308

What I WOULD do for a good cup of coffee!

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perfectwheels (original poster)
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#28: Post by perfectwheels (original poster) »

As a professional mechanic for over 20 years I find that, generally speaking, using grease on threads is best. This allows smooth application of the proper torque allowing the bolt to do its job. Some modern greases are too slippery and will allow the bolt to slip backwards so I avoid those. Cheap lithium grease works great for threads.

Of course, the list of exceptions is long. When something doesn't hold I reach for the loctite. In my shop I keep strong, mild and wicking loctite on hand and use them often. Fender and rack bolts, which are subject to shear loads and constant vibration always get loctite. Spoke threads also need some sort of locking compound to hold up to the constant tension variations with the wheel revolution...I use linseed oil here. As fasteners have become lighter and verging on being under-engineered loctite has become more of a friend.

Applying this to espresso machines? I'm thinking food safe grease or ptfe tape where water is in contact, grease where moving mechanical parts and threads interact and loctite wherever something doesn't hold on its own.

One thing I have learned over the years is that there are often many approaches all having merit. I have watched other mechanics do things that baffle my logical process but end up with outstanding final results. Go figure.

Larry-

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drgary
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#29: Post by drgary »

It'll be interesting to see what you choose.
Gary
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What I WOULD do for a good cup of coffee!

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arcus
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#30: Post by arcus »

I'm feeling it! Looking forward to the next update.