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Astoria (CMA) Fiore Lever rebuild - Page 5

Postby JBT on Wed Jan 04, 2012 1:20 am

I like that you moved the wires to the back of the machine. Mine has a birds nest right above the group, and that could have been cleaned up by taking your approach.

I'm eager for your parts to arrive and to see how it comes together.
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Postby Whale on Wed Jan 04, 2012 2:55 pm

JBT wrote:I'm eager for your parts to arrive ...

So am I... :D
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Postby jonny on Wed Jan 04, 2012 3:39 pm

allon wrote:You might consider moving the vacuum breaker from that location - as the machine comes up to temperature, the vacuum breaker starts spitting out water until it closes. Where is that water going to drip? In my modification, it drips into the drip tray. In yours, it drips onto the exposed heating element contacts! This will eventually lead to corrosion and poor contact.


If this is a concern, this vacuum breaker is pretty cool: http://www.chriscoffee.com/products/hom...eakervalve
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Postby Whale on Wed Jan 04, 2012 4:36 pm

Thank you for the suggestion.
This vacuum breaker seems like a good idea but I am not sure of the long term reliability of it. Beside I already have a vac breaker.

Allon brought up a very good point and I wasn't really thinking about leakage when I positioned the wiring and the vacuum breaker. I will relocate the vacuum breaker elsewhere and move the electrical terminal bar from under the pressure stat.
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Postby TomC on Mon Feb 20, 2012 6:49 pm

Any update on this rebuild thread?
Fresh out of the roaster: SM Ethiopian Yirg Grade 1, Compass Ethiopian Sidama
Next batch: Guatemala Geisha...
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Postby Whale on Mon Feb 20, 2012 7:17 pm

Things have moved in my life and have set this project to a lower priority.
I actually moved ahead a bit after I received most of the parts but there are still parts missing.
I should move ahead very soon. Seeing the Astoria/CMA thread pop-up has given me new motivation :mrgreen:
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Postby Whale on Sat Feb 25, 2012 9:28 pm

I have finally put everything back together, sort off...

Image

All the plumbing is done and water tight. I am using a generic manometer because I forgot to order a proper replacement... :roll:

I have turned it on and started experimenting a bit. First thing that I notice is that the water comes out of the side cuts of the shower screen. There is so much that comes out that way that the extraction is very uneven.
Seeing the way the shower screen is installed, mine is somewhat loose, clipping in a groove, it seems normal that it would not contain the flow.

Anybody has anything to suggest on this? Is this normal? Did I install the sower screen wrong?
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Postby allon on Sat Feb 25, 2012 9:36 pm

Is it a new screen? I got a replacement screen from OE when I did my rebuild, it wasn't very expensive.

The screen click-clacks. Make sure it is
clacked. That is, if you push up from the bottom, it will click and be loose. If you push down through the group (I use the portafilter handle) it will clack and grab onto the lip of the cylinder sleeve; mine will still rotate but not come off.

What do you mean water comes out of the side cuts? While pulling a shot? How can you tell?
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Postby Whale on Sat Feb 25, 2012 9:52 pm

Thank you.
It is a new screen that I got from OE.
The screen tangs are clipped in the cylinder grooves but it is somewhat loose nonetheless. If I push up on it there is some movement possible. As soon as there is pressure,the shower screen is pushed down.

When I flush the group without a P/F installed it is possible to see water coming on the side cuts of the sower screen. I cannot state that it is also happening when a P/F is installed but since I get donut extraction it does seem that there is something there.
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Postby allon on Sat Feb 25, 2012 10:52 pm

What's the puck look like when you're done?
How do you tamp?
I use a flat tamper and go very lightly in the double basket, with about 18.5g or so (+/- to adjust for beans - light roasts or Monsooned Malabar might take up to 20/20.5 g)
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