dumpshot wrote:Nice, Rob! I remember reading your posts about the time when you had a loaner Caravel from Doug and Barb. That was a long time ago! Welcome back to the club.

Pete

Thanks, pal. You go back a-ways too! FWIW, the back has both the metal kettle release and temperature adjustment. I assume the lower one is temp adjustment?

The basket is a bit out of round. it measures 46mm diameter inside left-inside right. The tamper measures 42.45 mm. Will the Brooks 14 gram basket be
compatible. I'd read this whole thread,and just glanced back at a bit of the conversation regarding 3rd party suppliers. I haven't checked with Doug at OE to see if he has any baskets, etc.




EDIT: I'm ordering an Italian to 110-120 adapter. I looked at 1000 and 1500 watt convertors, and they all say.."not to be used with heat generating appliances like kettles and coffee makers!" Not sure I want to convert it to 110-120 unless y'Ll say "schmeckle, do it."

Sorry for being a bother, gents and ladies.

If I purchase a 1500 watt step up/down convertor, does that mean I'm throwing 1500 watts in the wall? Meaning, I shouldn't run a grinder at the same time, or worse toaster, etc?
As the V1.0 Caravel is rated at 550 watts (at 220-240..or does the matter) would a 1000 watt convertor be sufficient?
I know this was probably covered somewhere, but I am truly a dummy when it comes to this stuff.

Thanks to all, truly.

Schmeckle - do it!

I have done it both ways. I had a step up/down transformer. They are big and ugly, get real hot and oftentimes fail. A 110 volt heating element is a no brainer for me. It pops right in. The only other thing you have to do is replace the electrical cord. And that is easy.

Hope that helps!

Pete

cuppajoe wrote:I would confirm that it is indeed a spot weld. As far as I know the only attachment point is at the bottom of the bi-metal. You also want to avoid trying to bend the bi-metal as an adjustment.

Good to know. May need another solution since I'm not achieving over 190F with the Vam before element shutoff.

Do you know if your VAM has been worked on before? The only way to adjust the system is the position of the split nut on the adjustment screw at the bottom. See here on this thread - Array/levers/vam-caravel-v1-microswitch-t40874-50.html. Dr Gary has also posted regarding the system.

The bi-metal in your photo looks to have been punched or something, leading you to think it a spot weld. Hopefully this is not the case. Can you provide a pic of the kettle from the side showing the bi-metal edge on?
This is an unmolested one.

As you are in Canada, my guess you are running it on 220V.

dumpshot wrote:Schmeckle - do it!

I have done it both ways. I had a step up/down transformer. They are big and ugly, get real hot and oftentimes fail. A 110 volt heating element is a no brainer for me. It pops right in. The only other thing you have to do is replace the electrical cord. And that is easy.

Hope that helps!

Pete

I've been running a Faemina and a Gilda 54 on a 3000W converter with no problem. Yeah, sorta big, but I keep it in a cabinet anyway. The main thing is to make sure it's rated for continuous use. Most cheap converters are for use with electronic devices, not heating elements and other constant high load applications.

And depending on the machine, if converting to 110V make sure the switches can handle the added load. So far it seems the Caravel's OEM switch can handle 110V. It has been confirmed that the 6A 240V switches in the Faemina will fry on 110V.

cuppajoe wrote:Do you know if your VAM has been worked on before? The only way to adjust the system is the position of the split nut on the adjustment screw at the bottom. See here on this thread - Array/levers/vam-caravel-v1-microswitch-t40874-50.html. Dr Gary has also posted regarding the system.

The bi-metal in your photo looks to have been punched or something, leading you to think it a spot weld. Hopefully this is not the case. Can you provide a pic of the kettle from the side showing the bi-metal edge on?
This is an unmolested one.
<image>
As you are in Canada, my guess you are running it on 220V.

Yes in Canada. Running on 110v with new element. Tried both elements same temp result. Son has VAM for the next week so can't take picture until I get it back. The temp knob at rear is at max but not hitting high enough temp before cut off. Bi-metal at kettle may need flattening out since the one in the picture you,posted looks flatter.

I just replaced the two piston seals and the seal that sits around the shower screen, but I still have problems getting pressure on my pulls. When I lift the lever to let water flow into the piston tube the water flows out from the holes in the middle of the piston if I wait too long. That means my piston seals are not tight enough?

Any ideas what I can do to fix this problem?

caravel wrote:I just replaced the two piston seals and the seal that sits around the shower screen, but I still have problems getting pressure on my pulls. When I lift the lever to let water flow into the piston tube the water flows out from the holes in the middle of the piston if I wait too long. That means my piston seals are not tight enough?
Any ideas what I can do to fix this problem?

You need to close the middle hole after you have opened it.
The movement is:
Lift the lever to let water flow into the group - the middlehole is now open.
When you reach the top of the levermovement, push the lever down, just a little bit, to close the middle hole again.

Thanks. Lowering the lever a little at the top helped to solve that leak.

However, I still have low pressure on the pull and little crema. What can I do to fix this problem?