The Arrarex Caravel - Page 169

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sorrentinacoffee
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Joined: 16 years ago

#1681: Post by sorrentinacoffee »

one thing about the Caravel thermostat: if it doesn't work- it is not much of a problem. In fact it could actually be an advantage: as it makes it harder for you to accidentally leave the machine turned on. With the thermostat the element light goes out and the boiler dies down- you can forget it is turned on and go out for the afternoon... In use it is best to bring the caravel to a boil- tun it off- and make you shot. I don't think many users would ever leave it sitting there with the boiler ticking over all day- as it's not an 'on all day-ready to go' type of machine. When the thermostat is functioning the temperature moves around quite a bit anyhow- generally around sea level- I find it best to use just after the boiler has reached a rolling boil. So it is visual clues that let you know the ideal temperature- not the setting on the thermostat.

Perip
Posts: 1
Joined: 9 years ago

#1682: Post by Perip »

Hi all. Following on from discussions here Caravel drip trays, are they out there? and here 3D Printing Arrarex Caravel Drip Tray?, I would like to take a shot at 3D printing a caravel drip tray and grate. I have access to a 3D scanner and 3D printers, but what I don't have is an original drip tray for reference. Is there anyone out there who could help out with this?

I've got a draft version of a 3D model made up based off of drgary's photos, but I've had to make a few guesses, so some more measurements would be greatly appreciated. I'm anticipating that it'll take a couple of iterations to get the end result just right, but I can test fit against my own Caravel and make adjustments as necessary, and then share the final 3D printer file here as a common resource.


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sorrentinacoffee
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#1683: Post by sorrentinacoffee »

this is a grate idea (pun). The tray itself is subtly formed: the edge that sits closer to the body is raised a few mm- for a seamless fit. You cannot just put it in place either way around- or you can but it's not as Dr Salati intended...

Perhaps someone could lend you a drip tray and grate for reference. I am in Australia... I guess I could lend you one...?

gail
Posts: 48
Joined: 9 years ago

#1684: Post by gail »

Just an update. I got a replacement heating element from Thijs and had my electrician fix the wiring of my Caravel, and now it is working very well. The heating element cycles on and off, and I can regulate the on-off temperature with the thermostat screw on the top of the back.

The water temperature, however, does wander around quite a bit. The way it is set now, the current first goes off at around 92°, then over the next few seconds the temperature drifts upwards to around 93 or 94 because the heating element is still hot. With the current off, the temperature drops a few degrees, but when the heat comes on the second time, it goes off again at around 94*. So the switch-off temperature is not stable over time but gradually moves upward. At least with the coffee I use, the difference between a 92° and a 94° shot is pretty substantial. I can see that using a thermometer or PID is going to give more consistent results if you want to pull more than one shot. The bring to a boil and then pull the shot is going to leave the water too hot for my taste.

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drgary
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#1685: Post by drgary »

Gail,

Congratulations on getting your Caravel working properly. I find that it takes these machines awhile to warm up, including the frame as well as the group, so the first temperature you get will vary, just as you found. If you leave it as is and give it three cycles of reaching highest heat, you will find it has stabilized, and there will be no need for a PID. With a PID the group temperature will also be lower until the Caravel fully warms.

If you do want to use a PID, it's easy enough without permanently modifying the Caravel. Depending on what version you have you can find how others have done it somewhere on this megathread.
Gary
LMWDP#308

What I WOULD do for a good cup of coffee!

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Stephanus
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#1686: Post by Stephanus »

I was in Italy in June and purchased two new La Peppina baskets from Francesco (the last two he had left). When I got home I made a temporary bottomless portafilter from a SCHD40 2">1.5" stainless steel conical reducer which fits the Caravel and also accomodates the La Peppina filter baskets. I used my Dremel to grind the basket rim to fit. With the new basket I have to grind much finer with the same dose as with the standard Caravel basket. The new baskets are slightly deeper as well which makes dosing easier. I still use a dosing funnel. The difference in taste is remarkable, a game changer in my opinion.

I am working in Ghana until the end of September but as soon as I am back home I will manufacture a better looking portafilter with a neat handle for permanent use.

Only a surfer knows the feeling

nester
Posts: 9
Joined: 8 years ago

#1687: Post by nester »

Hello Guys.

Can someone give me an exact dimentions of that little oring sitting inside piston? I need to order some, or soon i will stay without my daily caravel yummy shots ;)


i've read that this oring is 4mm x 2mm, but this is not a standard oring, meaby somebody used slightly different dimentions that worked fine?

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sorrentinacoffee
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#1688: Post by sorrentinacoffee »

I don't know the dimensions- but do know you really want to get one that is very close. If it is too large by even a fraction is doesn't work well.

Sansibar99
Posts: 241
Joined: 11 years ago

#1689: Post by Sansibar99 »

nester wrote:Hello Guys.

Can someone give me an exact dimentions of that little oring sitting inside piston? I need to order some, or soon i will stay without my daily caravel yummy shots ;)


i've read that this oring is 4mm x 2mm, but this is not a standard oring, meaby somebody used slightly different dimentions that worked fine?
Try to contact Thijs at brooks-espressomachines.nl
LMWDP #422

lucasd
Posts: 107
Joined: 9 years ago

#1690: Post by lucasd »

I have a VAM caravel 1.0 :) and try to diagnose if I have set it correctly.

RIght now the thermostat shut off for example at 90C and
then temperature cost up to even 100. If it lowers to 80C or so
I can bring it on by pushing button, don't know when it open
automatically.

I can see from the top red glowing heater element on the sides.
Is it proper, or if you set correctly springs etc. it should not happen (heater does not get red hot)?

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