The Arrarex Caravel - Page 159

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drgary
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#1581: Post by drgary »

Interesting comments on the Kurt August versus Orphan Espresso seals. I've only had the OE ones and my Caravel works very well. What's different with the KA seals? My pulls offer good resistance once the coffee is saturated. The shots are delicious. The only thing I'm experiencing that is less than perfect is that coffee washes back into the boiler when I'm doing multiple pulls. But I don't think that's an issue with seals. It's more an issue with the design of a gravity fed machine with the kettle directly adjacent to the piston, isn't it? (And with a Caravel or VAM the kettle is easily cleaned between brew sessions.)
Gary
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What I WOULD do for a good cup of coffee!

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dumpshot
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#1582: Post by dumpshot replying to drgary »

I have tried the OE seals and the Kurt August seals (and even have some brooks-espressomachines seals on standby, unused as of yet). There is no doubt that the KA seals are an improvement in fit over the OE seals. I know he went through several iterations until they got them just right. When I installed them, I felt a difference in resistance when raising and lowering the lever (unloaded basket). They are slightly wider than the OE version, so they fit in the channel a little more snugly.

That all being said - I didn't find a difference in pulls or in cup quality. There, I said it.

Pete
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Cmtwgr
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#1583: Post by Cmtwgr »

drgary wrote:Interesting comments on the Kurt August versus Orphan Espresso seals. I've only had the OE ones and my Caravel works very well. What's different with the KA seals? My pulls offer good resistance once the coffee is saturated. The shots are delicious. The only thing I'm experiencing that is less than perfect is that coffee washes back into the boiler when I'm doing multiple pulls. But I don't think that's an issue with seals. It's more an issue with the design of a gravity fed machine with the kettle directly adjacent to the piston, isn't it? (And with a Caravel or VAM the kettle is easily cleaned between brew sessions.)

If you machine is with a valve in the piston, then try this

lift the handle , and feel the gurgling oF water flowing into the cylinder
BEFORE the cylinder is full start the first pressing down , then lift again ,and sins this will open the valve , air is not sucked in through the puk, but through the piston
then once again let water flow into the cylinder , and once again , start pressing down before the gurgling stops
this way no water that, once was in the cylinder( and containing traces of coffee) can enter the boiler

when you lift the handle to the top, let it slightly down again , this will close the valve in the top position , and the air can only escape through the hole into the boiler , this will happen much slower than if water can enter the cylinder while air is escaping through the valve , and you can fell the action going on
+ the water can not flow into the piston
if water has flown into the piston , you will need many pumps to pump the puck dry
if no water is in the piston , just lift the handle almost to the top , and air will be drawn into the cylinder , and that air can push out the water on top of the puck ( after you made your shoot )

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drgary
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#1584: Post by drgary »

Thank you. I will try and then post results.
Gary
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What I WOULD do for a good cup of coffee!

rocl
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#1585: Post by rocl »

as stated, it's the "feel" or ergonomics. the resistance is stronger. when flushing afterwards, the lever will stay where it is left, where-as with the OE it would fall if not held. no difference in the quality of the shot, just the quality of the experience. should last longer. i find the OE easy to damage when replacing the piston.

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drgary
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#1586: Post by drgary »

Cmtwgr wrote:If you machine is with a valve in the piston, then try this

lift the handle , and feel the gurgling oF water flowing into the cylinder
BEFORE the cylinder is full start the first pressing down , then lift again ,and sins this will open the valve , air is not sucked in through the puk, but through the piston
then once again let water flow into the cylinder , and once again , start pressing down before the gurgling stops
this way no water that, once was in the cylinder( and containing traces of coffee) can enter the boiler

when you lift the handle to the top, let it slightly down again , this will close the valve in the top position , and the air can only escape through the hole into the boiler , this will happen much slower than if water can enter the cylinder while air is escaping through the valve , and you can fell the action going on
+ the water can not flow into the piston
if water has flown into the piston , you will need many pumps to pump the puck dry
if no water is in the piston , just lift the handle almost to the top , and air will be drawn into the cylinder , and that air can push out the water on top of the puck ( after you made your shoot )
I tried the first part, and coffee no longer flows into the kettle. That tells me how to open the valve. Excellent!

With the second part I think you are telling me how to close the valve in the piston. I will try again to learn about the valve. Of course getting the puck dry doesn't affect the quality of the coffee, so I would do that as a learning exercise regarding the piston valve. Added: I tried again and this second procedure works. The valve closes and the puck comes out dry.

Jack's showing the outer ring adjustment of my TSTAT now allows the Caravel to get hotter, which was terrific for the Bodka Coffee Ethiopian Janbar I just had.
Gary
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What I WOULD do for a good cup of coffee!

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peacecup (original poster)
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#1587: Post by peacecup (original poster) »

I don't have much time these days to play with the VAM, but it has been inspiring each time I do get the chance. I have the temperature pretty well dialed in now.

Kurts seals and even the group gasket are really smooth and make a subtle but positive change in function. I would not expect an improvement in taste, but there is zero leakage above the piston or through the small center hole. Even locking in the PF feels better with this silicone gasket - just that little bit smoother.

Kurt states on his website that he is not producing any more seals currently, but would be open to a group order. If such a movement comes about please keep me in the loop, as I'd like an extra set.

PC
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peacecup (original poster)
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#1588: Post by peacecup (original poster) »

Today was a good day with the VAM, two great shots of the Passalaqua mekkico I've had in the freezer. It's really a treat when I have the time to relax and pull shots on the VAM. It feels so organic with this little beauty, and the results never fail to stun to senses.

PC
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Hand-ground, hand-pulled: "hands down.."

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JohnB.
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#1589: Post by JohnB. »

How do Kurt's seals differ from the seals that Brooks supplies? http://www.brooks-espressomachines.nl/shop

Kurt's website??
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spressomon
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#1590: Post by spressomon replying to JohnB. »

John,
I was not aware of this supplier let alone comparisons to OEM, OE or Kurt's. However I followed your link and sent an e-mail inquiry about how to obtain them. Will post up if/when I get an e-mail back from them.

Thank you!

Dan
No Espresso = Depresso

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