3-year old Elektra Microcasa a Leva - how to dismantle, clean and descale?

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boren
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Joined: 14 years ago

#1: Post by boren »

The title pretty much sums this up. I feel it's about time to give the machine proper cleaning and descaling. Is there any step by step guide (preferably illustrated) that explains how to dismantle it and perform maintenance?

DJF
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Joined: 14 years ago

#2: Post by DJF »

A 3 yo MCAL should not need dismantling for maintenance or descale unless the poor thing has been abused. Mind you, it's a simple Mecano set if you are that way inclined. There are ample threads within easy search parameters but for a descale, fill him with the appropriate solution, turn him on and just go from there.

Good luck!

Edit; Here's some homework. http://espressocare.com/PDF-Files/PDF-S ... a-2005.pdf
"24 hours in a day, 24 beers in a case. Coincidence? I don't think so."

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rpavlis
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#3: Post by rpavlis »

You should look inside the boiler quite frequently. The MCAL, as you know has a small diameter boiler cap. A few weeks ago someone suggested the use of the special LED lights that are designed to look down gun barrels because they fit right inside, and you can then examine the inside of the boiler very thoroughly. Remember that espresso machine manufacturers will NOT cover damage caused by using hard water. Deposits coating the element are a major reason for element failure. Ultra hard water can also clog sight glasses and tubes leading to pressurestats.

Citric acid around here is considered magic, but as a chemist I have a negative opinion of its use because when there are small passages with deposits calcium citrate can form and replace one insoluble material with another. I favour acetic acid, best obtained as white vinegar. Also citric acid is a substantially stronger acid than acetic acid and it is best not to over do it! One must rinse out the system very thoroughly with either citric or acetic. Gold is more expensive than steel. That does not mean that it would be better to have screwdrivers made of gold!

The other thing that needs to be serviced from time to time is the group. That is simple with these machines.

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HB
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#4: Post by HB »

rpavlis wrote:...as a chemist I have a negative opinion of [citric acid] use because when there are small passages with deposits calcium citrate can form and replace one insoluble material with another.
One of the [unstated] reasons you'll read recommendations to use citric acid is that it's not as offensive smell/taste-wise if you cannot rinse the boiler 110%. That's not an issue for a small boiler lever like the Microcasa because it's easily rinsed out, but it's problematic for large pump-driven espresso machines that don't have a drain plug and have to be rinsed via flushing water through the water tap. Alternatively, if you own a large boiler pump-driven espresso machine without drain plug and want to use vinegar, remove a fitting from the top and fill/syphon/refill to rinse. It will take 3-4 rinses to get all the vinegar out, but it's better than tasting sour milk for a month (don't ask me how I know :roll:).
Dan Kehn

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rpavlis
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#5: Post by rpavlis »

If one think about it, the number of compounds that can be used to dissolve calcium carbonate deposits without damaging equipment or being toxic is very small. Strong acids like hydrochloric are far too reactive.

The small mono carboxylic acids, formic, acetic, propionic, and butyric are all water soluble, but the latter two have extremely unpleasant odours rather like well worn gym socks or very strong cheese. Formic acid smells like ants or bees. Acetic acid, the acid of vinegar, seems to be the only one that makes any sense at all. It is available in any grocery store, and has an ideal acid ionisation constant for this purpose. Its calcium salt is highly water soluble.

There are a few polyacids that one might consider, the simplest possible, oxalic is rather toxic. Malonic decomposes when heated. Succinic is a metabolic intermediate, but has a fairly insoluble calcium salt. Tartaric acid is non toxic, but its calcium salt is also not very soluble, and I believe it is fairly expensive. Citric acid seems to be about the only sensible one from this group! Its worst problem is the inconvenience of dissolving it, and the fact that under some conditions calcium citrate can precipitate. However, it has a very low vapour pressure, so has essentially no odour, though it is intensely sour.

After filling equipment with either acetic or citric acid solutions a very thorough rinse process must ensure, acetic acid has substantial vapour pressure, and if not removed properly one can end up with espresso that tastes like a salad. Residual citric will make it sour.

I contend one needs to empty the device completely and refill it FOUR times with clean water after treatment with either acetic or citric. This is easy to do with most "home" espresso machines and some larger ones.