Hello All,

I just won an auction on an internet site for a new "20 year old" SAMA Export lever.

What parts should I count on replacing? I know OE Doug recommends replacing the heating element screws with stainless versions - what size should I get? I assume seals, perhaps some gaskets, and perhaps other parts should be replaced on a prophylactic basis given the age, but would like to get all of the work done at one go.

Thanks so much,

John

Here are some pictures....

John, I have a bunch of the stainless screws leftover from my Export rebuild (I bought 25 or 50 from McMaster Carr). PM me your address and I'm happy to mail some to you. As for the seals, you can order a complete set from Francesco and then you just have them on hand if you need them. 1st Line in NJ and Vaneli's in CA also probably have seal/gasket sets. I'm in the 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it camp' so my approach would be to fill the tank up and bring it up to temp. Then you will easily see if it has any leaks and if any seals need replacing.

Check to see if your bolts have already been replaced with stainless.
I owned three SAMAS and every one of them had already had those bolts updated by the time they got to me.

And be very careful not to put too much grease on those seals because it can backfire on you and degrade them so that the brew gasket blows (ask me how I know that....)

You need to start it up cautiously, keeping a close eye on the pressure build up. If the P-stat has somehow become jammed the machine can become overpressurized, which is dangerous.

Fill the machine and turn it on with the steam valve just slightly open. When it gets hot (5-10 minutes) and starts to steam close the valve a few seconds and see if the the p-stat shuts off. Try it a couple of times, but if the pressure seems too great turn off the machine and let the steam off.

You should also check the little overpressure valve on top by pulling up the stem with a pliers (when it is cool!) to see if it might be jammed.

A steam wand pressure gauge would make things easier.

Check for leaks around the base, at the group-boiler connection, and around the sight glass seals. Also the gasket on the boiler cap can dry out, and it may leak steam there.

If the p-stat is working and there are no leaks it will just be testing the piston seals and group head gasket. You may need to replace or lube these.

These machines are quite simple and easily maintained, so just use some caution and you'll be in business soon enough.

Wow, it looks clean!

Thanks so much for the kind words and helpful advice.

John

Just got my Sama Export up and running, thanks to grog and the GCC. It needed a new steam valve stem. Not cheap but worth it. Here she is posed in front of the Lusso. The first shot, ground with the hausgrind, was spot on and delicious.

I had to do the type of start-up I recommended for you, keeping the steam valve slightly open and being sure the P-stat was still working. Using a switchable outlet strip helps. I found a few leaks and needed to open it up and tighten a few connections - the sight glass nuts and the group-boiler bolts.

BE CAREFUL with all the bolt tightening so you don't strip anything. One trick is to tighten as far as you dare, then try a test-run. If you discover small leaks turn it off and try a little further tightening when it is warm.

This Export is one of the earlier models, must be 20 years old at least and still going STRONG.

Take it slow getting started with your Export, and let us know if you have questions.

BTW, it is sitting on a cork because I do a test run with the bottom plate off. This way I can check for leaks under the boiler.