HB wrote:good sensory judges can distinguish between their personal preference and a well-explained standard of an exceptional espresso
Again, an example from wine judging: One of my least favorite wines from California is off-dry blush wines (think "White Zinfandel"), yet I personally love dry rosé. These are my personal preferences, but as a professional judge, I still NEED to be able to taste blush wines, to be able to distinguish a well-made example from a flawed one (or even one that is merely "good"), and to be able to score the wines as objectively as possible. (See my final paragraph below.)
coffeefrog wrote:This (Dan's comment above) reads like standards trumping personal preferences, and that makes me nervous, whose preferences are being encoded in the standards?
Herein lies the rub. You have every right to be nervous, BUT . . .
Yet again, because I judged wine professionally for over a quarter of a century, it's easier for me to illustrate this using examples from the wine trade . . . and, hopefully Greg, you know something of Australian wines.
Barossa Valley Shiraz is quite different in character than the Shiraz from the much cooler climate found in the WA's Margaret River, so tasting a Peter Lehmann Barossa Valey Shiraz will be a very different experience than tasting a Vasse Felix Shiraz from the Margaret River. Both can be excellent. Yet there is little doubt that the majority of the world, when asked to describe the "typical" Aussie Shiraz, thinks of and describes an example from the Barossa. In a sense, that is the "encoded standard."
So, too, is the "big, over-blown Cabernet Sauvignon filled with gobs of hedonistic fruit" -- to use the cliché that describes the wines (seemingly) favored by the American wine critic Robert Parker.
This does not exclude a Vasse Felix Shiraz, or a more elegant, leaner California Caberent, from getting high marks from judges or critics.
In the world of coffee, some people may not (as an example) prefer the intensely dark roasts popularized in this country by Alfred Peet (see Peet's). They may prefer the lighter roast known in some circles as "Northern Italian." Indeed, despite the popularity of Starbuck's, I would imagine (not being a professional coffee judge) that more professionals prefer the lighter Northern Italian/Ticino roasts -- the exact opposite of "Charbux." Yet a judge needs to be able to evaluate all sorts of coffees . . .
This would apply, too, to evaluating blends which are all Arabica as well as those containing varying levels of Robusta. Or, despite a personal preference towards espresso made from a blend, a judge must still be able to evaluate SO coffees. Indeed, to be able to appreciate the distinctions between (e.g.) a true Kona coffee and a true Mocha from Yemen . . .
There may be an "encoded standard" that objectively describes (or attempts to describe) the perfect espresso, or that describes the perfect Mocha from Sa'ana . . . but the evaluation is made by individuals with different and distinct taste buds in their mouths, not by a computer or unfeeling, unseeing scientific instrument. And thus, IMHO, it is impossible to eliminate all subjectivity.
Cheers,
Jason




