Reinforce Kitchen Cart
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- Posts: 1390
- Joined: 10 years ago
I currently have the stenstorp kitchen cart from ikea and all was well until i receive my HGone. The motion from grinding causes the cart to wobble and i'm afraid it could collapse.
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/80116997/
What could I do to reinforce the kitchen cart to eliminate or reduce the wobble? My thoughts were either somehow attaching it to the wall or adding more horizontal beans from back to front? I'm not fluent in this area and just wanted to see how other people handled this issue if they came across it.
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/80116997/
What could I do to reinforce the kitchen cart to eliminate or reduce the wobble? My thoughts were either somehow attaching it to the wall or adding more horizontal beans from back to front? I'm not fluent in this area and just wanted to see how other people handled this issue if they came across it.
- [creative nickname]
- Posts: 1832
- Joined: 11 years ago
My cart wobbles a bit too. I haven't worried about it because mine is built quite solidly. But if I wanted to reduce the motion I think the best way would be to anchor it to the wall behind it.
LMWDP #435
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- Posts: 3472
- Joined: 19 years ago
Same here. My Pharos slips into bench dogs I attached to the surface. However, the cart is one of those cheap DIY put together, thing metal legs on casters.
I'm looking on Craig's List, etc for folks selling solid wood butcher block type kitchen island/carts.
I'm looking on Craig's List, etc for folks selling solid wood butcher block type kitchen island/carts.
- spressomon
- Posts: 1908
- Joined: 12 years ago
brianl wrote:I currently have the stenstorp kitchen cart from ikea and all was well until i receive my HGone. The motion from grinding causes the cart to wobble and i'm afraid it could collapse.
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/80116997/
What could I do to reinforce the kitchen cart to eliminate or reduce the wobble? My thoughts were either somehow attaching it to the wall or adding more horizontal beans from back to front? I'm not fluent in this area and just wanted to see how other people handled this issue if they came across it.
Using tensioned steel cable you could provide stability via tension with a cross brace forming an "X" on the backside of the cart. Home Depot, Lowes, etc., is a relatively cheap source of the cable, turnbuckles, etc.
Upping the aesthetics, and cost of course, would be sourcing stainless steel fittings, including custom length SS cable with swaged end fittings, cable anchor fittings, etc., at a marine supply shop (West Marine, etc.).
No Espresso = Depresso
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- Posts: 3472
- Joined: 19 years ago
Many thanks for the suggestion! However, in MY case, it would be like putting lipstick on a pig./spressomon wrote:Using tensioned steel cable you could provide stability via tension with a cross brace forming an "X" on the backside of the cart. Home Depot, Lowes, etc., is a relatively cheap source of the cable, turnbuckles, etc.
Upping the aesthetics, and cost of course, would be sourcing stainless steel fittings, including custom length SS cable with swaged end fittings, cable anchor fittings, etc., at a marine supply shop (West Marine, etc.).
It's not the looking or best designed cart as is. 15 years ago, I was desperate.
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- Posts: 1390
- Joined: 10 years ago
Just so I understand...Youre talking about top to bottom diagonals on the side facing the wall? (floor to table tabletop so to speak)? Would this mostly deal with the side to side or would it also stabilize the back to front (back to front is the most noticable with the grinding motion) as well? Steel tension is a new area for me so please don't mind my ignorance on the matter.spressomon wrote:Using tensioned steel cable you could provide stability via tension with a cross brace forming an "X" on the backside of the cart. Home Depot, Lowes, etc., is a relatively cheap source of the cable, turnbuckles, etc.
Upping the aesthetics, and cost of course, would be sourcing stainless steel fittings, including custom length SS cable with swaged end fittings, cable anchor fittings, etc., at a marine supply shop (West Marine, etc.).
- spressomon
- Posts: 1908
- Joined: 12 years ago
Yes: Installing two tensioned cables/rods, corner to opposite corner on the back of the cart, would help tie the entire structure together. If there is a similar lack of integrity between the front and rear planes/legs you could also install similar on one or both sides to solidify the structure.
It might be more trouble than its worth...given the cart is more than likely made with melamine and chipboard materials.
It might be more trouble than its worth...given the cart is more than likely made with melamine and chipboard materials.
No Espresso = Depresso
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- Team HB
- Posts: 5525
- Joined: 16 years ago
If you're willing to make it permanently assembled, take it apart and put it back together with epoxy on every mating surface, connector and screw threads. Also, see if you can find a suitable sized panel to attach to the back. Doesn't much matter what it is as long as you can put up with the closed back visually. Those 2 things will only cost a few dollars and will likely make a huge difference.
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- Posts: 1390
- Joined: 10 years ago
thanks for the ideas. It's solid beech wood, so it shouldn't be frail like particleboard. Unless i'm mistaken on the difference.
Ira, would the back panel be a similar concept as the tensioned steel? About how thick would you recommend if one went this route?
There interesting thing with ikea furniture is that rarely is something directly screwed in. it has a little locking mechanism that is recessed into the wood that connects the pieces. I may look into the epoxy as a last effort thing or maybe use some wood glue. Permanent construction might be worthwhile as i'd be more likely to toss it than disassemble. Not to mention it holds a 2k espresso machine that i'd rather not have fall over. I currently live in an apartment or I would have gotten something more robust but it looked like this cart could handle the weight.
Ira, would the back panel be a similar concept as the tensioned steel? About how thick would you recommend if one went this route?
There interesting thing with ikea furniture is that rarely is something directly screwed in. it has a little locking mechanism that is recessed into the wood that connects the pieces. I may look into the epoxy as a last effort thing or maybe use some wood glue. Permanent construction might be worthwhile as i'd be more likely to toss it than disassemble. Not to mention it holds a 2k espresso machine that i'd rather not have fall over. I currently live in an apartment or I would have gotten something more robust but it looked like this cart could handle the weight.
- canuckcoffeeguy
- Posts: 1286
- Joined: 10 years ago
Hi Brian,
I have the exact same cart from Ikea. But I haven't experienced any stability problems, even though it supports my E-61 HX, Compak K10PB, Vario, and a number of cups, saucers and accessories.
Post a pic of your home espresso setup...
Although, I imagine the HG-ONE grinding introduces some motion to the equation.
When you say the cart wobbles, do you mean the cart retains its overall structural integrity, but the grinding motion causes the entire cart to move back and forth?
Or, is the cart moving, creaking, and bending to the point of near disaster? I'll check mine when I get home, but I've always considered it solid, without any inherent play or being vulnerable to movement.
I have the exact same cart from Ikea. But I haven't experienced any stability problems, even though it supports my E-61 HX, Compak K10PB, Vario, and a number of cups, saucers and accessories.
Post a pic of your home espresso setup...
Although, I imagine the HG-ONE grinding introduces some motion to the equation.
When you say the cart wobbles, do you mean the cart retains its overall structural integrity, but the grinding motion causes the entire cart to move back and forth?
Or, is the cart moving, creaking, and bending to the point of near disaster? I'll check mine when I get home, but I've always considered it solid, without any inherent play or being vulnerable to movement.