We're about ready to re-wire out kitchen too.

So far we've planned on dedicated circuits to:
-induction cook top
-oven
-microwave/vent hood combo
-espresso machine
-grinder

Didn't think about it, but having a separate circuit for the fridge (if I don't already) is a good idea.
Under counter lights with an easily accessible switch.

Plugs every 4 feet, all GFI

Other ideas for you:
Kick board lights on a light sensor + motion sensor, so at night, you can raid the icebox at night and not bump your feet.

=-=-
Mark

Psyd wrote: I don't think you'll need 30A lines, and if you really do, it'll probably be 220 and the 12 ga will be fine.

Just to clarify, for 30A circuits of either voltage, you need 10ga, NOT 12ga.

Uhm, yup! What I should have said was that you probably won't run into any thirty amp 110V kitchen appliances, and anything that wants to raw that much power would be 220V. If you're running fifteen amps at 220, it's like running thirty at 110V. Or more precisely, a 1000 watt load on a 110V circuit is the equivalent of a 2000W load on a 220V circuit*, as far as the capacity of the wire is concerned. 30A of 220V is good for 6600W.* Even my boosted two group doesn't pull that! Larger conduit is a minimal cost, labor is nearly the same, larger boxes are almost the same price, but copper costs real money. I dunno, ten gauge stays cooler, and provides less resistance. It is just a real pain to wire into recepts designed for twelve, and will end up getting you charged a hassle-factor-fee, and/or killing you when you want to upgrade anything yourself.
Remind your installer that he's probably going to get the call if you want to upgrade/change anything. It will insure that he thinks about the next guy in the box if he thinks it may be him...


*All figures are calculated in that frictionless, gravity-less, entropy-less world of theoretical physics. YMMV... ; >

I have a dedicated 20 amp 110, a 15 amp 110 and a 30 amp 220 in, on or by my espresso bar.