www.ajcoffeeco.com: excellent coffee without compromise

Mr. Espresso, old-school commercial roaster, and their take on the new coffee - Page 3

Postby dustin360 on Wed Feb 01, 2012 12:25 am

Luigi is for sure the best part about Mr Espresso. Hes super genuine, knows coffee, and is opening to changing things as long as it improves taste. They definitely are not a third wave roastery, nor are they trying to be. I kind of look at them as the best of the second wave. There espresso is for sure darker than a lot of places that are looked up to here in the bay area. But that doesn't mean its bad, just different. And honestly there decaf espresso is one of the best ive had. Which is totally shocking cause its some of the darkest looking coffee ive ever seen! (granted decaffeinated coffee is darker in its green form).

Im glad you enjoyed your experience Gary, and thanks for all the photos.
dustin360
 
Posts: 203
Joined: May 04, 2011
Location: San Francisco, CA

Postby the_trystero on Wed Feb 01, 2012 1:25 am

Yes, thank you for the report! A couple of months ago I had the pleasure of pulling a couple of shots on my Mr Espresso lever for a barista who works at Coffee Bar SF, he was stoked when he saw the Mr Espresso badge. And I think the employees at Coffee Bar provide good feedback to Luigi.
"A screaming comes across the sky..." - Thomas Pynchon
User avatar
the_trystero
 
Posts: 455
Joined: May 16, 2011
Location: Atwater Village / Los Angeles
www.zokacoffee.com: you're original, drink like it - single origin & artisan coffee
www.zokacoffee.com: you're original, drink like it - single origin & artisan coffee

Postby drgary on Sat Feb 04, 2012 2:35 pm

More About Their Coffees

I followed up by asking Luigi about roast dates and packaging. This differs for blends versus single origins. SOs are packaged the day of roast. Blends may have as many as 9 different kinds of beans all roasted separately and are packaged within 1 - 7 days post roast, usually well less than 7. They pack some of their consumer offerings (versus 5 lb restaurant supply) with nitrogen -- the most popular, top-selling blends that may briefly sit on a shelf waiting to be shipped. Other consumer coffees are hand-packed to order. I asked how long they're at peak before and after opening and am summarizing his replies. I'm assuming only whole bean:

Before opening

Their espressos can last at peak for up to 6 weeks but to be safe he recommends 1 month. Drip coffee is best opened within 1 month. But he adds some of this determination is a matter of personal taste. "A person who prefers a Kenyan to display its full acidic prowess may prefer this coffee within 2 weeks of roasting while someone that prefers a smoother more well rounded Kenyan may let it rest longer up to 3-4 weeks."

After opening

7 days if you're careful about squeezing out extra air, rolling it tight, rubber banding or taping and then sealing the bag in an airtight container. Also he writes that dark roasts tend to oxidize faster than lighter roasts. When coffees are at peak I freeze them airtight to extend their life. This is what I do, not Luigi's recommendation. But it eliminates concerns about coffee aging more than one week, since I'm the only consistent espresso drinker at home.

Some impressions after tasting several of their coffees and dialing them in.

Keep in mind I haven't been at this for much more than two years, so I'll be interested in more experienced impressions when HB members gather at my house next week. As I learn I'll eventually provide better descriptions of flavors, brew ratios and such. At this point it seems I am able to dial in espresso for consistent and balanced flavor and mouthfeel.

Luigi tells me that these coffees are made in the Italian style, and I think this means they are roasted with more emphasis on mellowness and balance than strong varietal flavor notes or spicy acidity. He also characterized a classic Italian espresso blend as one combining South and Central American plus 10% high quality Indian robusta. But they've been at this for awhile, have a number of espresso blends and many feature far more than 3 types of beans.

I was surprised when Luigi told me his father always tastes these espressos with a demi-tasse spoon of sugar. To reiterate what I noted a few days ago, I was at their place, tasting their Gold Medal Espresso pulled with finesse by Luigi on top gear. I liked it just fine without sugar, and it tasted very mellow, without defects. He encouraged me to add a bit of sugar, and it rounded out the flavor significantly as a sweet, classic cup. When prepared at home today, I find it has a bittersweet chocolate note that is enhanced by adding sugar, just the way this would be if one adds sugar to slightly bitter chocolate. This morning, though, I was pulling some Espresso Di Carlo he sent home with me on my Isomac Amica. I pulled it ristretto, about 201, 17.5 gm, 25 sec, 1 oz. It was so balanced and chocolaty with enough sweetness I couldn't add anything to it. I've tried and very much liked their Guatemalan SO. Their Gold Medal Espresso also does better with sugar than without on my gear. I enjoy their Golden Gate Espresso and their Neapolitan Espresso, with the latter being a very mellow version of a darker roast. (Luigi tells me the Neapolitan is the most forgiving of their blends to newbie technique.) By contrast, the Thomas E. Cara dark roast is darker and oilier and more pungent and needs to be pulled cooler. Yesterday I also did some espresso tasting at Cafe Macaroni Scuie Scuie on North Beach. This was a high quality 100% Arabica blend right out of the bag (sorry, I don't remember the name of the blend at the moment). That was pulled with skill until it was dialed in on a commercial Faema machine and featured notes of bitter chocolate and bitter almond. That bitter chocolate flavor appears in some pulls of the Mr Espresso Neapolitan Espresso. I like it with and without a touch of sugar.

Currently Mr Espresso's "Coffee Bar" on Montgomery Street only prepares Neapolitan blend. It's the best espresso in the neighborhood and is the only cafe that draws me out of my office sanctuary, where I'm preparing many different coffees on my Europiccola and Le'Lit PL53. Their baristas work meticulously, using scales and the best equipment. I think they're still getting their staff used to an efficient routine but will eventually feature additional coffees prepared as espresso. They currently offer drip as well, selling bags of several SOs and their Golden Gate, Neapolitan and Decaf Espresso blends.
Gary
LMWDP#308

What I WOULD do for a good cup of coffee!
User avatar
drgary
 
Posts: 1469
Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Location: San Francisco Bay Area

Postby TomC on Sun Feb 05, 2012 5:13 am

Beautiful write up Gary! I appreciate all your efforts to shed some light on these folks. I think it's cool that they are established and well known, but this is like a new merging of "2nd wave" to the "3rd wave" enthusiasts. Sometimes the wheel doesn't need to be reinvented, and if their standards and quality have stood the test of time then I don't think it's a criticism to declare them not on the same level as a "3rd wave" cafe.

**
I'll leave my typo to stand as is, but had meant to say that I don't think it's a *fair* criticism.....The implied meaning is completely opposite of how it reads above :oops:
Fresh out of the roaster: SM Ethiopian Yirg Grade 1, Compass Ethiopian Sidama
Next batch: Guatemala Geisha...
User avatar
TomC
 
Posts: 721
Joined: Jun 06, 2011
Location: San Francisco

Postby drgary on Sun Feb 05, 2012 12:06 pm

TomC wrote:if their standards and quality have stood the test of time then I don't think it's a criticism to declare them not on the same level as a "3rd wave" cafe.


Thanks, Tom. I wouldn't say they're not on the same level. They have more of a connection with tradition and the focus of their business is different than most who identify themselves with the Third Wave. I don't know quite how to assign roasters to such categories. Maybe it can be the subject of a split-off thread. Added later: I found this discussion about defining "Third Wave" on HB here: Explanation of "3rd wave"? And what were the first two?

I don't think the difference is quality, it's more of style. Another local example is Mountanos Brothers of South San Francisco. The only place I know that serves their coffee is Alana's Cafe in Redwood City. I enjoy their blend served as filtered pour-over more than most anything I've tasted elsewhere. It's a subtle, medium roast, and it's fresh. You can buy from them online but they were unresponsive when I tried to write to them and find out more.
Gary
LMWDP#308

What I WOULD do for a good cup of coffee!
User avatar
drgary
 
Posts: 1469
Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Location: San Francisco Bay Area

Postby TomC on Sun Feb 05, 2012 7:13 pm

I re-read what I wrote and realized omitting one simple word changed the desired meaning 180 degrees in the wrong way. I meant to say that it isn't a *fair* criticism. We're on the same page. I look forward to trying them more.
Fresh out of the roaster: SM Ethiopian Yirg Grade 1, Compass Ethiopian Sidama
Next batch: Guatemala Geisha...
User avatar
TomC
 
Posts: 721
Joined: Jun 06, 2011
Location: San Francisco

Postby drgary on Sun Feb 05, 2012 10:55 pm

A typo! Not allowed here! :lol:
Gary
LMWDP#308

What I WOULD do for a good cup of coffee!
User avatar
drgary
 
Posts: 1469
Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Location: San Francisco Bay Area

Postby tekomino on Sun Feb 05, 2012 11:06 pm

I also liked your write up Gary and have ordered some coffee too :D thanks!
Refuse to wing it! http://10000shots.com
User avatar
tekomino
 
Posts: 935
Joined: Jan 07, 2010
Location: PNW

Postby drgary on Sun Feb 05, 2012 11:32 pm

Dennis,

Let us know what you think. Luigi's sending several of their coffees for us to sample this coming Saturday. I'll be interested in the impressions of the many leverheads who will be here.
Gary
LMWDP#308

What I WOULD do for a good cup of coffee!
User avatar
drgary
 
Posts: 1469
Joined: Feb 07, 2010
Location: San Francisco Bay Area

Postby peacecup on Sat Feb 11, 2012 2:31 am

I checked out this thread when it began, but have not had much time lately to follow HB. Very interesting posts on Mr Espressos lever collection, and Jason's images of the posters. Espresso is an art after all, and the inspired poster artwork lend a lot to whole process. One of may favorite contemporary artists, Ray Troll from Ketchikan Alaska, does the artwork for Ravens Brew, a great Alaska roaster (definitely worth a try):

http://www.ravensbrew.com/

Ray is also one of the greatest fishy artists that I know of past or present, which appeals to a guy like me:

http://www.trollart.com/

Peace,
PC
LMWDP #049
Hand-ground, hand-pulled: "hands down.."
User avatar
peacecup
 
Posts: 2106
Joined: Aug 25, 2005
Location: Sweden

PreviousNext

Return to Knockbox