by drgary on Sat Feb 04, 2012 2:35 pm
More About Their Coffees
I followed up by asking Luigi about roast dates and packaging. This differs for blends versus single origins. SOs are packaged the day of roast. Blends may have as many as 9 different kinds of beans all roasted separately and are packaged within 1 - 7 days post roast, usually well less than 7. They pack some of their consumer offerings (versus 5 lb restaurant supply) with nitrogen -- the most popular, top-selling blends that may briefly sit on a shelf waiting to be shipped. Other consumer coffees are hand-packed to order. I asked how long they're at peak before and after opening and am summarizing his replies. I'm assuming only whole bean:
Before opening
Their espressos can last at peak for up to 6 weeks but to be safe he recommends 1 month. Drip coffee is best opened within 1 month. But he adds some of this determination is a matter of personal taste. "A person who prefers a Kenyan to display its full acidic prowess may prefer this coffee within 2 weeks of roasting while someone that prefers a smoother more well rounded Kenyan may let it rest longer up to 3-4 weeks."
After opening
7 days if you're careful about squeezing out extra air, rolling it tight, rubber banding or taping and then sealing the bag in an airtight container. Also he writes that dark roasts tend to oxidize faster than lighter roasts. When coffees are at peak I freeze them airtight to extend their life. This is what I do, not Luigi's recommendation. But it eliminates concerns about coffee aging more than one week, since I'm the only consistent espresso drinker at home.
Some impressions after tasting several of their coffees and dialing them in.
Keep in mind I haven't been at this for much more than two years, so I'll be interested in more experienced impressions when HB members gather at my house next week. As I learn I'll eventually provide better descriptions of flavors, brew ratios and such. At this point it seems I am able to dial in espresso for consistent and balanced flavor and mouthfeel.
Luigi tells me that these coffees are made in the Italian style, and I think this means they are roasted with more emphasis on mellowness and balance than strong varietal flavor notes or spicy acidity. He also characterized a classic Italian espresso blend as one combining South and Central American plus 10% high quality Indian robusta. But they've been at this for awhile, have a number of espresso blends and many feature far more than 3 types of beans.
I was surprised when Luigi told me his father always tastes these espressos with a demi-tasse spoon of sugar. To reiterate what I noted a few days ago, I was at their place, tasting their Gold Medal Espresso pulled with finesse by Luigi on top gear. I liked it just fine without sugar, and it tasted very mellow, without defects. He encouraged me to add a bit of sugar, and it rounded out the flavor significantly as a sweet, classic cup. When prepared at home today, I find it has a bittersweet chocolate note that is enhanced by adding sugar, just the way this would be if one adds sugar to slightly bitter chocolate. This morning, though, I was pulling some Espresso Di Carlo he sent home with me on my Isomac Amica. I pulled it ristretto, about 201, 17.5 gm, 25 sec, 1 oz. It was so balanced and chocolaty with enough sweetness I couldn't add anything to it. I've tried and very much liked their Guatemalan SO. Their Gold Medal Espresso also does better with sugar than without on my gear. I enjoy their Golden Gate Espresso and their Neapolitan Espresso, with the latter being a very mellow version of a darker roast. (Luigi tells me the Neapolitan is the most forgiving of their blends to newbie technique.) By contrast, the Thomas E. Cara dark roast is darker and oilier and more pungent and needs to be pulled cooler. Yesterday I also did some espresso tasting at Cafe Macaroni Scuie Scuie on North Beach. This was a high quality 100% Arabica blend right out of the bag (sorry, I don't remember the name of the blend at the moment). That was pulled with skill until it was dialed in on a commercial Faema machine and featured notes of bitter chocolate and bitter almond. That bitter chocolate flavor appears in some pulls of the Mr Espresso Neapolitan Espresso. I like it with and without a touch of sugar.
Currently Mr Espresso's "Coffee Bar" on Montgomery Street only prepares Neapolitan blend. It's the best espresso in the neighborhood and is the only cafe that draws me out of my office sanctuary, where I'm preparing many different coffees on my Europiccola and Le'Lit PL53. Their baristas work meticulously, using scales and the best equipment. I think they're still getting their staff used to an efficient routine but will eventually feature additional coffees prepared as espresso. They currently offer drip as well, selling bags of several SOs and their Golden Gate, Neapolitan and Decaf Espresso blends.
Gary
LMWDP#308
What I WOULD do for a good cup of coffee!