by shadowfax on Mon Nov 10, 2008 1:12 am
I've been wondering this lately. It's an internet mantra that 'milk hides many sins,' and to some extent it's true. A merely decent shot can make a good cappuccino, and a fairly bad shot can be turned into a passable cappuccino.
My question is in 2 parts. First, do you think that milk really hides the 'sins?'
It seems like it simply mitigates them, to me. I don't find that cappuccinos really change the character of a shot all that much. They give it (sometimes) more and smoother body, and add a bit of sweetness, which can balance a shot that lacks sweetness, but I've never found that I could get away with much in a cappuccino. I smell the wet aroma of any shot that is suspect--bad pour, low/high temperature on the thermometer. A sink shot is a sink shot. I've tried adding milk to shots I thought were iffy, and I've always regretted it afterwards.
Second, which sins does it hide?
My feeling, as I said, is that it adds sweetness and body to the espresso. So, it is very good at hiding a lack of body in a shot, which is one reason why I like SO cappuccinos. A lot of the Ethiopian SOs that I have had have a good balance of acidity and bitterness, and really overwhelming fruit, but they tend to lack body for me, unless I make ristrettos, which rarely please me with the Ethiopians I like. I find that a reasonable amount of milk with such a shot really gives me the body I'm looking for, and enhances the fruitiness that I adore in such shots.
I find that this internet mantra is occasionally useful but often kind of irritating. On the one hand, I don't doubt that there are people drowning their problems as best they can in massive bowls of milk. But I have to wonder, is that the real problem? Some people actually like instant coffee. Some people like black, burnt, ashy coffee. Those people may be overwhelmed by the strength of a bad shot of espresso, which will need milk to take it down to the level of the crap they enjoy drinking, but does that mean that the milk is really hiding the sin? I don't think so, honestly. Crap espresso is just that, even in a 'frappuccino.'
On the other hand, I feel somewhat insulted by people that I have read and met that have suggested that if one prefers cappuccinos to straight espresso, that person needs to learn to make better espresso, or get 'better taste.' I think that's ridiculous. A 'godaccino' is just as much to be sought after as a 'godshot.' Both are something that should be experienced.
Nicholas Lundgaard