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How do you recognize "exceptional" espresso?

Postby Sakae on Thu Jun 02, 2011 12:45 pm

I too have many questions about what I am reading in here, considering that taste is not something one can quantify (despite that people tried), and one therefore wonders what people really mean when describing an exceptional espresso? I do not have a benchmark yardstick how it should taste. I do travel globally, and standards -- I find -- are local on what is good. Perhaps more practical is therefore to improve on your own creation, rather than to worry what anyone else likes. I am hoping to get right (optimised to my lifestyle) equipment, learn basic techniques, experiment along lines we are learning on these pages, and hope for the best. The other day I read about one barista stating -- I am not interested in an ordinary espresso, I am in it only to make exceptional espresso --; that left me wondering what is he talking about, and how does he knows that his creation is exceptional?

However, I am coming back to this site to learn more, and I am very pleased by individual contributions, as they agitating my own inquisitiveness. I have learned a lot in past two odd months, and made me realized how much I do not know about coffee which I love, and drink whole my life. Also thanks for discovering new roasts, even as I am on the record that once I find something that I like, I also like to stick with it, until I get bored. :)
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Postby galumay on Thu Jun 02, 2011 5:11 pm

Sakae wrote: The other day I read about one barista stating -- I am not interested in an ordinary espresso, I am in it only to make exceptional espresso --; that left me wondering what is he talking about, and how does he knows that his creation is exceptional?


I have drunk plenty of exceptional espresso made by so called baristas - exceptionally bad!

How do you recognise an exceptionally good espresso? Well I am no expert, but like all foods and drinks, firstly your own palate will dictate what you prefer, you can develop your palate by trying lots of different coffees, different styles of extraction and comparing with fellow coffee lovers.

My own personal opinion, (which wont garner much support here!), is that we should learn what real espresso, made in Italy, to a rigorous standard, tastes like. Then we have a reference point for the other drinks created by our cafes. (which are rarely espresso, let alone exceptional IMO!)
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Postby another_jim on Thu Jun 02, 2011 5:17 pm

The answer to this question is not going to make sense without a little philosophical digression:

philosophical digression wrote:Seeing and hearing are, in their bare essentials, just as subjective as tasting; they are each sensations triggered by outside stimuli. So why do we take the things we see and hear as mostly real, while the things we taste and smell as mostly imagined?

The answer is simple -- control. We can paint and shape things, more recently take pictures, we can talk and make music, more recently write and record the sounds. We have no such precise control over tastes and smells, we have less vocabulary for writing them down, and we have no technology for recording them. Our sight and sound technologies go back to the stone age; our taste and smell technologies have hardly begun. We are full Homo Sapiens when it comes to sight and sound; but we haven't quite made it yet for tastes and smells.


As you get better at making espresso, you will get better at recognizing and describing the difference between good and bad espresso.
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Postby Intrepid510 on Fri Jun 03, 2011 2:15 pm

I believe the best way to find a base point is to go to a quality cafe. I am sure there must be at least a few in Toronto and it appears there Toronto Roasters.

Like others have said, just find what you like and try to improve on it. Personally, I am not a big fan of highly fruity S.O. beans, and I tend to go for more traditional espresso blends. That might make me a little boring or perhaps it just shows that I have not been in this long for my palate to expand, only time will tell.
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Postby TrlstanC on Fri Jun 03, 2011 2:33 pm

There's also a difference between good espresso and exceptional espresso besides just quality, to me 'exceptional' implies that it's also rare (it's an exception). If you asked me ten years ago where to get good espresso, I probably would've told you to go to Italy, I would've had no idea where to get good espresso in Boston. And if I did manage to find good espresso in Boston I would've thought it was exceptional - compared to what was served at most cafes. These days you can get a good espresso at a lot of places, but it's still tough for me to find an exceptional espresso. I could point you towards a couple cafes that would be a good bet, plus maybe my kitchen. Although both would really depend on what beans were in the hopper.
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Postby Sakae on Fri Jun 03, 2011 2:47 pm

I have this fixation that unless you are a professional coffee taster who lives life of deprivation to keep his palate intact and perfect condition, you cannot trust yourself; well, can you?
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Postby malachi on Fri Jun 03, 2011 2:52 pm

It's an ever-moving bar.
For where you are right now it's beyond what you could expect ordinarily.
As your expectations improve, the bar moves up.
The minute that the exceptional becomes ordinary - you are settling for ordinary.
"Taste is the only morality." -- John Ruskin
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Postby HB on Fri Jun 03, 2011 3:12 pm

Sakae wrote:I have this fixation that unless you are a professional coffee taster who lives life of deprivation to keep his palate intact and perfect condition, you cannot trust yourself; well, can you?

I doubt you would question your sense of sight or hearing, so why the mistrust of your sense of taste? It was Peter's comment on this point that prompted me to write The SCAA Sensory Skill [Psych] Test, specifically his comment below:

PeterG wrote:I think that we, as a culture, are generally too insecure about our senses of taste and smell. I talk to dozens of folks every week who say something to me like "I just can't tell the difference between coffees" and "My palate isn't sophisticated enough to detect the differences you describe". I always call BS on that. I usually ask: "Can you tell the difference between Coke and Pepsi? Do you have a preference?" The answer is usually "yes" to both. I then reply; "The difference between those two brands of soda is much subtler than the difference between a mediocre Kenya and a great one." To put it in the context of our discussion: if you can taste the difference between Coke and Pepsi (differences in sweetness and acidity) and you can tell the difference between salted and unsalted soda crackers, you probably have the physical ability to pass the sensory skills test. The obstacle, therefore, is largely mental. (Ted Lingle and Joseph Rivera would probably argue with me on this score, but I'll stick with it.)

Somehow, we've decided as a culture that perceiving and describing differences in wine, coffee, scotch, perfume, etc. is best left to the super-initiated and skilled. Most people, when they hear what I do for a living, say to me: "You must have an amazingly gifted palate." While I would love to think that this is true, I actually believe that my sense of taste or smell is no better or worse than, say, 80% of the people out there. I have tasted coffee with those who are considered the best in the industry, and they are in the same boat. The only thing we do differently is 1. pay attention, 2. trust our senses, and 3. document our results.

In thinking about this topic, it occurred to me that the sensory skills test measures not only the ability to physically taste, but the ability to confidently assert your results. And, in thinking about it, this is just as important to the espresso judge as the ability to taste is.
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Postby TrlstanC on Fri Jun 03, 2011 3:12 pm

Sakae wrote:I have this fixation that unless you are a professional coffee taster who lives life of deprivation to keep his palate intact and perfect condition, you cannot trust yourself; well, can you?


I think this is the arguement that a lot of 'experts' use to sell expensive wine. If you consistenly prefer one wine, or espresso, over another, then no one else can tell you that you're wrong.

I have noticed that as I've tried a greater variety of espresso, made by more people, and as the overall quality of the drinks have improved I've been able to distinguish and describe the flavors I'm tasting better. This doesn't do much for my enjoyment of the espresso in the moment, but it does help me when I want to talk about espresso with someone else, and it probably helps me improve at home. In fact, if I happen to pull off an exceptional espresso at home, when I'm drinking it I won't be thinking about trying to identify or name the flavors (especially if it turned out much better than I was expecting). And then when I go to write myself a little note so I'll know how to pull it next time I don't know what to write, I usually just end up with something like "Good" double underlined, or a star :D

Of course next time I try to write myself something more descriptive, assuming it wasn't a fluke.
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Postby Sakae on Sat Jun 04, 2011 7:26 am

another_jim wrote:The answer to this question is not going to make sense without a little philosophical digression:



As you get better at making espresso, you will get better at recognizing and describing the difference between good and bad espresso.

Sage advice, thanks.
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