It began at our usual Friday get-together at Counter Culture Coffee's espresso lab. I had arrived extra early to do some tests comparing the Baratza Vario and the Mazzer Robur (if interested in more details, see Baratza Vario Grinder - First Look). In my opinion, the Vario represents one extreme of the product design spectrum: Intuitive interface, good looks, and generally practical features. The front panel's button mania and perpetual bright blue LED costs it subtlety points, but hey, nobody will question the assertion that Baratza did their homework. In sharp contrast, the La Marzocco GS/3, which benefited from years of prototype feedback, entered the market with what I consider obvious oversights in good user interface design. I called them out in the conclusion to One week with the La Marzocco GS3:
HB wrote:I didn't share Chris' enthusiasm for the GS3's usability. Perhaps, as Greg mentioned earlier, it may take "some getting used to", though I've used plenty of espresso machines that seemed well adapted to how I like to work, not vice-verse. Subsequently I would dock its Convenience / Features score due to the ungainly layout of the steam arm / steam arm toggle / brew button array. I'm hopeful that a smart product ergonomics design engineer will revisit the prototype control panel layout too. Its bank of same-sized buttons offer poor visual clues and no tactical clues to their different purposes. I was almost ready to place a big piece of masking tape near the correct button (if you look closely at the extraction videos, you'll notice that I hesitate for an instant as I confirmed which button to press). I have a nagging feeling that the focus on performance and reusing existing components trumped refinements one would have expected in a groundbreaking home espresso machine.
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Photo courtesy of dublinbarista and Mark Prince (flickr)
But this thread isn't about the Vario or the GS/3, it's what we observed this morning on the technician's bench at Counter Culture.
Occasionally they receive evaluation models of commercial equipment, presumably that the manufacturer hopes they'll recommend to their client cafes. The technician solicits opinions from the staff and anyone else he can drag back to pull shots, even "home baristas" like us. Ken grabbed a couple pounds of coffee, some demitasses, tamper, knockbox, Super Jolly grinder, and beckoned us to follow him through the roastery to his work area. There he had a two-group espresso machine, the top removed, plumbed in, hot and ready to pull shots. I volunteered to play pro barista.
It's really a bad sign when the first usability mishap is failing to find the "pump on" button. Or I should say, I had no trouble finding what could be the pump on button. The machine sported a large array of buttons across the panel labeled with graphics depicting various sizes and quantities of demitasses. Small single, medium single, large single... small double, medium double, large double. There may have been another bank of small, medium, and large triple, I'm not certain, because what I really wanted was a simple "pump on" button. As I recall, the 10th button, mysteriously labeled "P" with a squiggly line, was the winner.
There were other buttons, which of course begged for further investigation. The button on the right side of the machine activated the water tap. It was well labeled (good) but located on the opposite side of the machine (bad). I can imagine this arrangement being a great source of pranks ("Hey new guy, would you steam this up for me (heh, heh)?", followed by screams when the oldtimers release a torrent of hot water within millimeters of the new guy's hands as he purges the steam wand - great fun!
There were other features that went from practical to silly. The green energy folks will love how it "learns" your cafe's hours and starts/stops the steam boiler automatically. Setting the brew temperature was easy enough, though I shudder to think what icky gunk will encrust the cracks between the multi-directional command switch after a few short weeks in a busy cafe. The switches would be at home on your DVD player, not food prep equipment. Or how about humidity readouts? One of my buddies helpfully suggested it could foretell a required grind adjustment. Maybe, but I wonder if a barista who needs a digital readout to remind him it's getting steamy will know which way to turn the grinder adjustment collar under said conditions.
Despite my quibbling about usability, overall this evaluation espresso machine wasn't a bad ride. I managed some good espressos and Dave praised the sweetness of his espresso, which is something I'm not accustomed to hearing from this morning crowd. If only I had had time to figure out the espresso machine's MP3 recording feature, I could have preserved his comment in a download for this thread. Damn buttons.
PS: For those new to HB, this post is a continuation of my semi-retired blog Overextracted.





