Hi Folks,
My Caravel has a Type L three prong plug (standard Italian grounded plug) and a 220VAC heating element.

The transformer I have is a down/up and has a european two prong plug on it, although there is a spot on the plug housing for a third prong. I popped the transformer housing open and verified that there is actually a ground wire coming from the input cord and that it is connected to both the transformer case and the ground wire for the output cord. I am planning to replace the input plug with a NEMA 5-15 so I do not have to hunt down a third prong and adapter.

The PID I have is similar to the Auberins French Press controller http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=48 and can take 110 - 240VAC input and pass it out to the controlled device.

I am wondering if I should arrange my components like so:

(leaving the transformer on during the session and presenting 220VAC to the PID)
110V               
Wall      ---------  Step Up XFMR  -------- PID ------- Caravel
Outlet


Or:

(presenting 110VAC to the PID and turning the transformer on and off)
110V                                 
Wall      ---------  PID  -------- Step Up XFMR ------ Caravel
Outlet


As the transformer is a gain device, any line noise is amplified.

I'd put the PID on the 110v side and isolate the PID and TC from the 220 side of the xfmr.

I'd 86 the txfmr and go with 220V from the line into the residence, but I'm guessing that that's not possible. IF it isn't, I'd definitely arrange it as Ian suggests.

As an aside, how much would you pay for a kitchen wall-plate that contained both legs from the pole pig (one red and one black 20A circuit) and a way to use, say, a standard 220V connector?

Thanks folks, sounds like a good idea to reduce the line noise going to the PID.

Regarding a wall plate that gave me 220, I guess I would pay at least $30.

Take Care,
Dan

Make sure your PID system can handle the amperage on the low voltage side.

Jim

To

JimG wrote:Make sure your PID system can handle the amperage on the low voltage side.

Jim

Thanks Jim,
I took that into consideration. I am assuming that the transformer is 75% efficient. So, since the Caravel wants 600W I am guessing 7A @ 110V. The SSR is rated at 25A @ 240V, and I have a large heat sink on it. When I was using this SSR at 110V with the Caravel it never got warm.

I will post again after I switch out the plug on the transformer and find an adapter for the Type L plug.

Take Care,

ddr wrote:Regarding a wall plate that gave me 220, I guess I would pay at least $30.

OK, then, it's off to the drawing board...

Psyd wrote:OK, then, it's off to the drawing board...

Great, that price point makes sense to me. 1000W Step up transformers are available in cities like Chicago for $30. A plate that provides 220VAC wins easily from my point of view.

Yeah, less lethal equipment in the kitchen, less energy waste, less counter space clutter, I'd definitely go with the wall plate.

Stuggi wrote:Yeah, less lethal equipment in the kitchen, less energy waste, less counter space clutter, I'd definitely go with the wall plate.

Well, the plan is to provide a 20V outlet that is also a combination of two 110V outlets. Either one could plug in a 110V load on each of two standard 20A Edison configured recepts, or a 220V plug that would cover a portion of both 110V recepts to preclude them from being used simultaneously.
In my perfect kitchen, all of my receptacles would be these, and each circuit would be numbered and designated red or black.
My issue now is one of dealing with NEC and breakers. Historically, 220V circuits have been dealt with by using tandem 110V breakers. If I can find a way around that, it could be feasible. Presently I'm working on the premise that if you're using this kind of system you're alright with any shorts or overloads on one circuit taking out the mated opposite with it.
Still working on it, though...