by Gus on Wed Jun 17, 2009 9:55 pm
I gave a rather flippant reply to this earlier, and I meant every word, but. It is interesting that this topic would come up today because I was composing a reply to a CG post from a guy asking if his shot was good based on a picture. He indicated in his post that he strived to make each shot better than the one before it. I was about to reply to him when this came up. Now I think I will post it here.
It is a noble sentiment to want to make every shot better than the last one. Over a long enough timeline it is impossible. The eternal quest for a god shot is one that can lead to the dark side. Especially for someone who has never had one.
If you have no reference for great espresso because you have never been served great espresso, it is difficult to evaluate the espresso you make at home. Especially considering how easy it is to make bad espresso, and considering we humans can develop a taste for some really foul stuff if we consume it long enough. Add in a little misguided reverence for unique preparation the next thing you know we're enjoying fermented, sun dried, putrid meat or some other such foulness.
Great espresso is a moving target that gets smaller as your aim improves. The better you get at making it the more you tend to expect out of it. If you evaluate your espresso against a perfect scale you may never be satisfied, this is the dark side. It is what happens when you pervert your hobby into a quest for perfection and lose sight of the enjoyment.
I looked deep into the dark side and thankfully I was able to pull myself back. Maybe it is because I am a better barista now, maybe it was just luck. I evaluated every shot to the point that my gear became my adversary, and the resulting brew was the weapon with which it would defeat me. Producing a really good espresso would frustrate me because I didn't do it the last time, or worse that I probably would not be able to replicate my success with the next attempt. Ultimately I spent so much time evaluating that I did not take time to enjoy the successes I simply saw everything as a failure. After I started making espresso at home it was a solid 18 months before I was able to sit down and enjoy coffee with breakfast again. I had been so focused on improving my results that I forgot it tasted good with breakfast.
Here is the guide I use now.
Great espresso is very enjoyable to drink. It feels thick on the tongue and moves slowly in your mouth. It is intense but very pleasant. It should not be overly sweet nor should it be detectably sour or bitter. It can posses specific fruit flavors and aromas, as well as chocolate flavors ranging from milk chocolaty sweet to the rich dark chocolate, and can also have countless other flavor compounds. Caramel flavors are also common and behave just like the chocolates ranging from candy sweet to rich and nutty. The very last thing I should taste after drinking great espresso is the roast and this should be faint and should not happen for a few minutes after consumption. When I drink great espresso I do not want to drink anything else for a long time for fear of losing the taste of it. Great espresso makes remarkable milk drinks.
Good espresso is almost like great espresso except not so blindingly impressive and the flavors will not be so high definition. It may get more roast flavors sooner. And I don't consider how long I can go without drinking anything else after a good espresso. Good espresso makes really good milk drinks. Good espresso and even OK espresso should still be enjoyed by many home barista. OK espresso is like good espresso except it is either detectably sour or bitter. I rate it as does not make me wince when it passes my lips, but the enjoyment pales in comparison to great espresso. Ok espresso is better enjoyed with some milk and should make a nice milk drink.
Bad espresso makes you wince and pucker, but may be passable with milk, but probably not. Terrible espresso makes you want to spit it out but some how you manage to choke it down and the milk drinks aren't much better. The very worst espresso, your body will reject naturally and will require you to spit it back out similar to when you realize you have just consumed poison. This is not something that can be covered up with milk.
My espresso very rarely rates lower than OK. It is usually at least good and more and more regularly it is great. I have never pulled a god shot nor have I been served an espresso that rated higher than great, maybe a couple that were really great but that's it.
If the lions share of my shots fall somewhere between good and great I consider it a job well done. I have gotten to the point where I no longer ask my guests if their coffee is good and hope for a positive answer, I am confident that it is good. These are not perfect shots because there are none. In the end I am a very happy home barista. And that is the most important thing.
Gus
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