converting an espresso machine that has 1000 watt heating element and runs on 220 volt - they make a North American model that is rated 1000 watts 110 volts.

I have the correct factory replacement 1000 watt 110 volt heating element.

I had planned on just cutting the plug off, and putting a US plug there - I have enough smarts to trace out hot and neutral, and know which one in the wall is hot, etc.

But, looking at the factory wire - it seems pretty small - can't actually see anything but insulation and connectors, so I'm guessing, but even so it seems pretty small

IIRC, all things being equal - if voltage goes up amps (watts) go down - so am I correct in thinking that the 220 volt wiring is probably on the light side because it normally carries lower wattage?

lettering on the wire - very hard to read, not sure I'm right -

style 1016 105 degree cent 300V VW-1 C3A TBW BS 3231 0.76mm 3

it's a 3 wire, does that mean each wire is probably .76 mm? If so, that would be between 20 and 21 AWG, which is too light to suit me for 1000 watts on 110/120.

Am I thinking correctly here?

That sounds right - get some heavier wiring.

220V boxes can get away with 18 gauge wiring; your machine will run a lot happier if you run 14 gauge for the plug and the wiring to the heater (the rest is low power, and will be fine).

SwingT wrote:IIRC, all things being equal - if voltage goes up amps (watts) go down - so am I correct in thinking that the 220 volt wiring is probably on the light side because it normally carries lower wattage?

The answer that you're looking for is that you're machine will be happier with bigger wires. The real answer is that if you're not familiar with the algebra that an apprentice electrician can do in his head, you may want to consider having someone wire it. The math that you're wanting is Ohms Law, or some variation, that states that P = I x V, and V = I x R. Power (Watts) is equal to amps multiplied by Volts, and Volts are a result of Amps multiplied by Resistance.
By implications of it's labeling, if the 100W heater is a 100W heater, the Watts are neither going to be lower, or higher, but the same. With that as a constant, and the voltage as a known change in a variable, we can assume that 1000 is equal to 220V x X and 110V x X, for a result of X being four and a half-ish Amps in European money, and about nine-ish in good ole US dollars. You can get away with 20 gauge wire for that, but you have absolutely no fudge factor with that (and think about it, at 220V that's a 100%{ish} oops factor) AND that small wire will heat up, hot wire increases resistance, resistance is part of the above equation which will change the entire equation's result (and no things won't get better) by increasing the draw and making the entire thing less efficient.
Remember, the most common cause of death due to electrocution and fire in this country is faulty wiring, and most of those are Harry Homeowner jobs.
It isn't something that you want to 'think' you have right.

another_jim wrote:220V boxes can get away with 18 gauge wiring; your machine will run a lot happier if you run 14 gauge for the plug and the wiring to the heater (the rest is low power, and will be fine).

That sounds about right to me.

I'm comfortable with wiring, and although I can't do ohm's law and the math in my head - I have run several miles of wire, to code and it's all working fine, and passed inspection.

Since 14 ga is common in the US for a 15 amp circuit, although I normally run 12 to a receptacle - I don't see how I can go wrong with 14 ga.

Although, since making the original post, I hunted around and found a piece of 16 ga going to a molded plug (obviously from some unit that gave up it's life long ago) that is starting to look pretty tempting. Would give me a small cushion, although I usually prefer more.

14AWG for the heater circuit makes sense. But even stranded AWM wire at 14AWG will be too stiff to easily rewire the whole machine. Consider 18AWG for general use.

Jim

JimG wrote: But even stranded AWM wire at 14AWG will be too stiff to easily rewire the whole machine.

There are plenty of 14ga stranded automotive wires that are designed for high heat apps that are far more flexible than wire intended for reg'lar ole house wiring (THHN). Check out your neighborhood (real) auto parts suppliers.

The only automotive I'm aware of that I'd consider using in an espresso machine is TXL or SXL, I forget which has a thicker wall. I have 2 spools, 1 white and 1 black of 14ga 150c rated silicon insulated wire I bought to mod my espresso machine. Paid 25 cents/foot if you want some. Seems like silicon with a fiberglass or cloth over braid to make it stronger. Quite similar to what's in my Brewtus.

Ira

Psyd wrote:There are plenty of 14ga stranded automotive wires that are designed for high heat apps that are far more flexible than wire intended for reg'lar ole house wiring (THHN).

My reference was to AWM (appliance wire material). I didn't suggest typical house wiring.

While AWM is intentionally flexible to avoid bad things like fatigue from vibrations, 14 ga is still a lot of copper to make the tight bends needed inside some machines.

Many (some?) automotive wires also carry the AWM designation. UL1015 is an AWM that is used in a lot of espresso machines, and is also sold as automotive wire. I'd make sure any automotive wire I selected also carried an AWM label.

Jim

Glad I made the original post.

Great info in this thread. I'll see what I can find a the neighborhood auto store.

If I can't find anything suitable, I'll give Ira a PM.

Want to try to get it done over the weekend.