Near Vietri, Positano, Salerno, etc. I'm interested in places that offer fresh stuff, not Illy, Lavazza, etc -- not to diss them (Very interesting objective/subjective taste discussion, by the way).

Anyway, recommendations?

Thanks!

Salerno has a lot of small roasters. When I was there a few years ago, there was almost nothing but local coffee outside of Amalfi, Positano and Ravello (in Amalfi and Positano, walk uphill until you hear Italian again; in Ravello, forget it). At three or four cafes a day for ten days, I had Kimbo maybe three times, and that was it for non-local roasters. The coffee tended to be lighter roasted than in Naples, pulled ultra-ristretto, with a mild chocolate taste, and fairly fresh for Italy. I found the standard higher than in Rome or the tourist areas of Northern Italy.

There was one cantina, at the Salerno harbor, famous for its antepasta and the looks of the daughter of the house, that made neither espresso nor mocha pot coffee after dinner, but Turkish coffee. When I asked about it, the mother told me that was how her mother had taught her and that is how everyone in her little village in Abruzzo did it. "But our daughter won't make coffee, she'll be a star."

Thanks Jim! Very good to know. Plus, an intriguing tale about that cantina...

I'm also on the hunt for excellent ricotta di bufala. I hear that's in Salerno, too.

I guess I'll be walking uphill a lot. Must hear Italian!

Spent a few weeks all along that coast last September. The pulls were hit and miss. But we did find a good espresso in a small restaurant in Amalfi buried somewhere in the mid-town, if I can use that expression. I'll ask the wife for the name and post it. The owner is actually a local family lawyer who is also, it seems, a restauranteur.

There was one decent place just outside of Positano. Take the boat -- it looks like a dory to me -- with the red fish on the mast, it will take you to the beach just to the east of Positano - a 10 minute ride - and the beach restaurant makes a decent coffee, as well as a killer white with peaches and some fresh seafood. Gosh I wish I could remember the names but my wife will.

I found the stops between Salerno and Amalfi less interesting, but we ate in all of them. Our best luck was walking up into the hills and eating at little places along the way, and some place that will take you in, some nonna will make a stove-top and it will taste like a million bucks. Go figure.

I suppose you have to go to Capri if you go that far in the world, but I found little redeeming on the island except the views. The crowds made things impossible to enjoy. It might be better in winter. Same for Ischia.

Overall though we had a really really lovely time on that coast. Will be back for sure, probably spend some more time in the hills and farms around Positano. Happy to share more over email if you like.