I think that many of Will's criticisms are right on.
I have long felt that the Barista Competitions leave something to be desired as a spectator activity. Heck, even I can barely stand to watch them for more than a few hours!
I've thought about this a lot; I've watched sporting events, food network contests, etc. etc. with this in mind and the thing that makes them interesting is either 1. inside knowledge of what is going on or 2. someone using their inside knowledge to explain what is going on (color commentary) or 3. rooting for the home team.
I hear Will's comment about the casual spectators not being included, and it's something I always struggle with as an MC. The insiders are there because they are into it. The friends and family are there to root for their home barista. The spectator naturally feels left out, if they belong to neither of those camps.
I believe the answer is "color commentary". In fact, I did this at the first-ever SERBC... I would constantly be saying things like "the competitor has chosen to use tulip shaped demitasses. She probably feels that this accentuates the aroma of the espresso, which is one of the things the judges are looking for" or whatever. I think it made a better show. However, very understandably, some felt that this patter distracted the judges and the competitor.
At this point, I will say that so far the contests HAVE been "all about the competitor". The organizers of the USBC, WBC, and regional competitions all do it primarily out of love and respect for the professional baristas of the world. (I do believe that barista-ing is a profession.) When a judgement call needs to be made, the usual question is: "what would make this a better experience for the competitors?" These are young, passionate people who deserve to be recognized and celebrated, and for this reason the whole competition tries amazingly hard to be fair and supportive to the competitor.
It is with these points in mind that I speak to Will's excellent criticisms:
1. The camera coverage sucks. Spectators cannot see what is going on, especially with the judges hovering like angels over the Christ child.
Okay, okay. Religious iconography aside, I agree fully. We tried to fix this at the 2005 SERBC, and hired a broadcast-quality film crew to document the event. The event was broadcast live on a big screen, and also on a flatscreen in the foyer. The bad news is that that little idea cost us $8K or so, which we never were able to recover. The good news is we turned some of that footage into a cool movie about the Competitions!! (available
here)
2. Too much importance is placed on spiffy table settings, suave movements around the machine, a glib line of patter, and (God help us) mopping the mess off the counter.
I actually disagree with this one. A clean, well presented culinary experience is central to the food arts, if you ask me. The idea is to get a sense of the barista's aesthetic presentation and ability to relate to customers. Both are important, in my view. If it helps any, though, the scoring form emphasizes drink quality over presentation.
3. The judging system is ridiculous. The notion that judges need to go into a huddle in a corner and "calibrate" before announcing their scores removes any semblance of independent impartiality. Perhaps the judges are, in fact, trying as hard as ever they can to be fair; they will never, ever be perceived to do so as long as they decline to score and announce their scores independently. Even the illuminati have begun to have serious reservations, as Mark documented in some detail recently.
The judging system is not perfect. The calibration phase exists to try to eliminate the "Russian Judge" factor, where a judge is unfairly disjointed from the rest of the pool. Since there are so few taste judges, if one judge arbitrarily slams a competitor it can have a deep impact on their points performance. Calibration does not exist to try to sway judges, just to make sure that they are all using the same measure. I do, however, believe that the judges are very accountable for their scores, each competitor has the opportunity to go over their scores individually with the judges at the end of the competition. The judging system is constantly improving, though...and needs to. Mistakes have been made in the past. When you say "announce", do you mean actually?
4. Signature drinks are absurd. People bemoan having to make half-caf hazelnut lattes with soymilk yet they will cheerfully concoct and serve up a combination of city-roasted Agajanian RuffRuff blended with apricot jam, crushed pistachios, and cubes of lime jello, garnished with melted Nutella? Can no one see the hilarious inconsistency here?
The sig drink has been a part of the contest since the very beginning in the '90s... and used to have even MORE emphasis than it does today. Before the "third wave", in the days when there were only a few espresso blends available to baristas, the specialty coffee industry defined itself by crazy, invented drinks. One company I worked for had an "Artista Barista" contest for the most creative coffee drink. This had a place, and was instrumental in building the specialty coffee industry into what exists today. I agree, however, that the sig drink is inconsistent with the notion of "letting the coffee speak for itself", the belief the top baristas ascribe to today. It is for this reason that many champ-baristas make subtle objections to the signature drink during this phase: for example, Nick won the SERBC by basing his sig drink on the simplest presentation of the coffee imaginable. I believe that the sig drink will (and should) continue to decrease in emphasis. On the other hand, what with all the blowtorches and such, it DOES create interest for the spectator, and allows for some creative expression by the barista.
5. The quiet game of "I'm on the inside and you are on the outside" combined with the endless choruses of "O Come Let Us Adore Us" are entertaining for about an hour and then boring as hell.
While I really hope it doesn't come across that way, I understand that the competitions can seem pretty alienating. I constantly struggle with this while I am MCing, and I try my dangdest to try to lift whatever veil exists, perceived or real. I don't see the comps as
quite so self-serving, but I can see how they can seem that way, especially with such a small family of competing baristas/companies. I'm at a loss to know how to fix this one, honestly.
Peter G