I just have a couple of questions I haven't seen addressed.

1. What thermocouple (TC) are most people recommending for use with the TC4C/HTC combo? I'm using the Hottop B model, so I'll be drilling holes and using the lamp parts method of securing. At least that's my current plan; I'm open to suggestions.

2. Is there any contemporary comparison between Artisan and Roastlogger? I've found a few really old reviews, but both sets of software have evolved quite a bit since then.

3. Does anyone know if I can use the LCD with the TC4C/HTC combo? I'd like to keep my computer far away from the action and just use some buttons and pots on the LCD to monitor the roast. Turtle might be using this, but I could never tell how his was connected.

I have searched a fair bit and haven't found any answers. There's a ton of bits and pieces but not much in any one place/thread.

I've read the Basic Automation Question thread, which was originally about automating a Quest, but page 3 has some useful TC4C info.

Of course there is the massive TC4 + HTC roast controller for Hottop available thread.

Regarding the TC's, I've seen some people (including Randy G.) recommended bare wire TC's, and still others recommended sheathed TC's. It's now been several years since many of those recommendations...has any solution shown itself to be the right balance of durable/accurate/reasonably priced?

1) In my original thread describing the lamp part method http://forum.homeroasters.org/forum/vie ... post_53557 which is actually referenced in the "lamp part method" link that you have listed (by dcoplan), I replied (reply #8) with some specific info about the probes. You'll see from my comments that I could have used a shorter probe. In the post that you link to, dcoplan gives the specific probes as well and went with 1.75 inch probes. In fact now that I look, I'm not sure that there's anything in my post that's not in dcoplan's later post.
What info are you missing?

2) I use Artisan. I think it's been kept much more up to date and is more feature-rich. Roastlogger might be simpler but learning artisan is not a big deal.

3) If you're going the TC4C route, you lose a great deal by not having it hooked right up to your computer. You can, however, use a web function in Artisan to monitor BT, ET and time from a webpage on any device. I also sit at a PC across the room and use remote access to monitor most of the roast then just go up to the roaster and use the directly connected laptop to monitor / control it at the end of the roast.

PS: I'm not sure if there are any significant differences for you since you have a B and I have a B-2K.

Hi Barry thanks for responding.

1- I linked to his instead of yours because his post was more recent, and he linked to yours anyway. I've read both several times...so it sounds like if you could do it again you would use the same model TC but the 1.75" length, correct? No issues with grounding, noise, or responsiveness?

2- thanks!

3- my plan was to use a USB extension cable to the computer for logging but I'd like to be more "tactile" with knobs, buttons, smell, and sound rather than trackpad/keyboard. I type way too much code and documentation at work to come home and inject that into my hobbies So do you think the HTC connection to the TC4C would prevent the LCD connection to it?

Regarding the temperature probes, 1.75" should be fine. 1.5" might be good too (or even better) but I'm not sure, so unless someone's used 1.75 and says they have 1/4" to spare, I'd probably go with 1.75"

Regarding hooking other stuff up to the electronics, you should ask Jim, who makes the HTC/TC4C boards. I know little of what's under the hood, I just follow the directions.

That said, if you don't operate the Hottop through the PC, you're missing the best parts of the functionality - you'll have a record of what settings you used and also can have the PC control the roast.

Regarding LCDs, I don't know what you want to do.
If you want to see the ET & BT on an LCD screen, you just use the web feature and you get a virtual LCD on a smartphone, tablet, PC or wherever you have a web page.

Great, I'll order the 1.75" probes ASAP. Thanks for taking the time to help and share your wisdom. I appreciate it!

On probes and how I attached.

I used right angle probes from Auber. They seemed to fit the best and they are pretty good quality (and accurate).

I drilled the back plate, used a tap to thread it, then screwed in the probe holders, placing a thin nut on the roaster side. slick, permanent, and easily removed (no glew, JB weld, or other mess, just threads).

I ran the probe wires to the rear of the Hottop and put in panel mount K-type jacks. I used a jumper from those hacks to the remote TC4C+LCD. The HTC unit was installed on the rear wall of the roaster (inside)

On your TC4C+LCD question.

I would "imagine" that you could program the unit to have the pods control something. I was never able to do this and only used mine as a remote interface between the computer and hottop. The TC4C+LCD Jim sent me came in a clear case (optional) so made for a clean external install.

DISCLAIMER:

I have moved from my modified roaster to a plus upgrade when the B control panel completely died and could not be replaced. My choices were to: 1) mod the rear panel to take a K-type probe and use the B-K control panel, 2) Replace the rear panel with a K-type one, re-drill and remount the probes and use the B-K panel. 3) replace everything with the plus model parts (which I decided to do)

SO....

I no longer own a modified B model but have a "spanking well used" B2-K + unit (and a box of modified Hottop parts in the closet). I can say without any regret that the plus mods have made roasting coffee more pleasurable on my Hottop as I no longer have the long involved setup every time I roast. Just turn it on and roast. No regrets from me as far as the plus model upgrade goes.

Pics of the mods I did a few years ago:

turtle wrote:On probes and how I attached.

I used right angle probes from Auber. They seemed to fit the best and they are pretty good quality (and accurate).

I drilled the back plate, used a tap to thread it, then screwed in the probe holders, placing a thin nut on the roaster side. slick, permanent, and easily removed (no glew, JB weld, or other mess, just threads).

I ran the probe wires to the rear of the Hottop and put in panel mount K-type jacks. I used a jumper from those hacks to the remote TC4C+LCD. The HTC unit was installed on the rear wall of the roaster (inside)

On your TC4C+LCD question.

I would "imagine" that you could program the unit to have the pods control something. I was never able to do this and only used mine as a remote interface between the computer and hottop. The TC4C+LCD Jim sent me came in a clear case (optional) so made for a clean external install.

DISCLAIMER:

I have moved from my modified roaster to a plus upgrade when the B control panel completely died and could not be replaced. My choices were to: 1) mod the rear panel to take a K-type probe and use the B-K control panel, 2) Replace the rear panel with a K-type one, re-drill and remount the probes and use the B-K panel. 3) replace everything with the plus model parts (which I decided to do)

SO....

I no longer own a modified B model but have a "spanking well used" B2-K + unit (and a box of modified Hottop parts in the closet). I can say without any regret that the plus mods have made roasting coffee more pleasurable on my Hottop as I no longer have the long involved setup every time I roast. Just turn it on and roast. No regrets from me as far as the plus model upgrade goes.

Pics of the mods I did a few years ago:

<image>

Very helpful, thank you so much for taking the time to post, Turtle! I will look into those Auber probes.

So it seems from you post that it's indeed possible to hook up the HTC, LCD, and TC4C simultaneously. I'm assuming then that the HTC and LCD use different connection points on the TC4C. Is that correct?

I'm a bit curious about this:

turtle wrote: I no longer own a modified B model but have a "spanking well used" B2-K + unit (and a box of modified Hottop parts in the closet). I can say without any regret that the plus mods have made roasting coffee more pleasurable on my Hottop as I no longer have the long involved setup every time I roast. Just turn it on and roast. No regrets from me as far as the plus model upgrade goes.

So, it seems like I'm basically in the same boat you were originally. Do I spend $300-ish to install just the new probes, HTC, and TC4C or $560 to upgrade to the B-2K+ model (with improved heating element, solenoid, probes, and computer control)...sounds like you would go with the second option? I wasn't aware of the "long involved setup every time [you] roast"; would you mind elaborating on that a bit?

I'm sorry to ask you more questions, but would love your input. Thanks so much!

By the way: I'm very happy with my current B-2K & HTC/TC4C set-up but if I doing this once the B-2K+ upgrade became available, I probably would have gone that route.

PS: I have no idea what the involved set up would be referred to above.
I plug my hottop into the laptop and that's the set-up.

BarryR wrote:By the way: I'm very happy with my current B-2K & HTC/TC4C set-up but if I doing this once the B-2K+ upgrade became available, I probably would have gone that route.

I was very happy with mine until the control panel died completely. I had kept it alive for a few years by cleaning it when ever it stopped working but this last time the main board went south. All it would do was beep then go into cooling as soon as it was turned on. Not may choices open once the main control that is no longer made dies. Luckily they had the plus model out and a full upgrade kit. Expensive, but I can say I like what they have done.

BarryR wrote:PS: I have no idea what the involved set up would be referred to above.
I plug my hottop into the laptop and that's the set-up.

You have the HTC and TC4C within the roaster and a USB connection.

I had the roaster as a stand alone so that I could hook it to the TC4C+LCD or a dual channel meter.

Either of which can be an interface to a computer via USB on either of the devices.

I needed 3 "bits" 1) the roaster. 2) the TC4C interface (or data logging meter). 3) A laptop (or other) computer.. This involved the 2 probe interface wires (hottop to the remote TC4C+LCD or a data logging meter) AND a USB to the laptop

BarryR wrote:By the way: I'm very happy with my current B-2K & HTC/TC4C set-up but if I doing this once the B-2K+ upgrade became available, I probably would have gone that route.

OK, thanks; that's a good data point. Again, I appreciate your thoughtful responses!

turtle wrote:I was very happy with mine until the control panel died completely. I had kept it alive for a few years by cleaning it when ever it stopped working but this last time the main board went south. All it would do was beep then go into cooling as soon as it was turned on. Not may choices open once the main control that is no longer made dies. Luckily they had the plus model out and a full upgrade kit. Expensive, but I can say I like what they have done.



You have the HTC and TC4C within the roaster and a USB connection.

I had the roaster as a stand alone so that I could hook it to the TC4C+LCD or a dual channel meter.

Either of which can be an interface to a computer via USB on either of the devices.

I needed 3 "bits" 1) the roaster. 2) the TC4C interface (or data logging meter). 3) A laptop (or other) computer.. This involved the 2 probe interface wires (hottop to the remote TC4C+LCD or a data logging meter) AND a USB to the laptop

<image>

OK now I understand better. You had a lot of flexibility and modularity but requires a longer setup. Thank you so much for taking the time to help me understand.

What do you guys think about these TC's? I can simply drill a hole in the wall and attach it with a 1/4-20 nut. Only 1/2" long though; I'm wondering if that's long enough to detect changes in the BT? I'm not against spending $$ on Omega TC's but don't want to do it if there are cheaper options that are nearly as good...