Replacement drum for Quest M3 - future modifications

#1: Post by **TomC** » June 21st, 2015, 11:28 am

It took 3 email nudges to get one, but I have a second drum for the Quest M3 coming from Molly. Just an FYI for anyone curious, the drum is only $65 but the shipping hurts a bit. It came out to exactly $99. I'll share some details here once I get around to getting it modified to have a perforated rear plate that sits off the back wall.

#2: Post by **FotonDrv** » June 23rd, 2015, 6:55 am

That will be interesting to see what happens, especially with that wimpy fan.

#3: Post by **EspressoForge** » June 23rd, 2015, 9:17 am

TomC wrote:It took 3 email nudges to get one, but I have a second drum for the Quest M3 coming from Molly. Just an FYI for anyone curious, the drum is only $65 but the shipping hurts a bit. It came out to exactly $99. I'll share some details here once I get around to getting it modified to have a perforated rear plate that sits off the back wall.

I assume $99 is shipping itself and not the total? It seems normal based on US shipping rates to other countries...what amazes me is how China can ship things for practically free. I'm guessing their government must do some heavy shipping subsidies or something.

Are you planning to cut the drum and weld in a perforated section? Or simply drill a bunch of holes towards the back of the drum?

June 23rd, 2015, 1:33 pm

The back of the drum is open. It seats in a groove in the back wall. I plan on having about 1.5cm trimmed from the total length and have a perforated sheet circle welded in place. I'm not setting my hopes high, I think this could fail about a half a dozen ways.

The total cost, to my door was $99, drum, shipping, everything. I'll see if I get a customs fees and report back, but I sorta doubt it.

#5: Post by **Mr Bill** » June 23rd, 2015, 3:51 pm

Hi Tom - Here are a few suggestions that will save you a bit of experimenting. Shorten drum to 6" and tack weld a solid plate in back with 2 1/4" perf plate in the center.

#6: Post by **Mr Bill** » June 23rd, 2015, 3:56 pm

Alter the airflow by putting slots in the housing directly under the heating elements.

#7: Post by **Mr Bill** » June 23rd, 2015, 4:03 pm

Of course you will have to close off the large hole at the bottom in the rear plate to get the air to flow past the elements and into the drum. You can add a plate of steel to the elements to shield the drum from direct heat and to provide additional mass to the heater - sorta like a heat exchanger. I safety wired the plates to the elements with inconel wire.

#8: Post by **Mr Bill** » June 23rd, 2015, 4:06 pm

To give the beans a bit more "air time" I added a second set of vanes that are oriented in the opposite direction from the originals.

#9: Post by **Mr Bill** » June 23rd, 2015, 4:09 pm

That's it except that the thermocouples cannot be oriented down the center of the drum so I ordered shorter ones and bent them at a 90 - one points down (beans) and the other up (ET.) Works the same as on my Diedrich.

Good luck - I think you will be pleased with the result.

Cheers,
Bill

#10: Post by **kwantfm** » June 23rd, 2015, 4:12 pm

Bill,

What were your results please?