by another_jim on Mon Jul 28, 2008 6:37 pm
The cappa passes my personal Viennese Kaffee and Schlag test: almonds/marzipan, a little chocolate, a little smoke. Very satisfying, but not wow!: A straight four in my book.
Straight shots at 16 grams and 22 seconds for a full two ounces are solid. Abe is right, there's nothing explicit from the Africans, but there is some liveliness and complexity in the bitters that shows them at work. Otherwise as advertised: toast and nut, a hint of of the Malabar wet wood & mushrooms thing. I'd rate it just short of being very good, a 3.5.
The contrarian shot, 12.5 grams, with a long flush to 197F, and a medium pull is better, a 4: very sweet,
mostly brazil rooty-nutty, with "bright-bitter" wood and toast, a bit of chocolate, and just enough acidity to keep it lively.
I'm no fan of the Vivace/Malabar Gold/Liquid Amber blending style. These blends haven't fared well in competition; but they are popular with customers. I think their appeal is more to customers used to milk drinks rather than coffee professionals used to cupping lighter roasts. But this blend is a good effort in this style, and I recommend it based on that.
If you want to get a little livelier, emphasise the African bean more. If it is a post-blend, roast the African portion maybe a little lighter and definitely faster. If it is a pre-blend, up the proportion of the Yrg at the expense of the Brazilian beans.