Quest M3 Mods - Page 13

#121: Post by **Zanderfy** » March 15th, 2016, 5:57 pm

FotonDrv wrote:Heck, I took mine apart, put the "Frame" in a 5" bench vice and then used a large wrench to bend the legs into proper alignment. It took several tries and for the final bend into a more forward down position(ever so slightly) I put my entire weight on the roaster!

Lots of great ideas. I wasn't able to bend it by myself, so tools may be a realistic option!

#122: Post by **SAS** » March 15th, 2016, 7:29 pm

When I had my Quest, I put a piece of wood under the roaster to bring it into alignment.

#123: Post by **djbetterly** » March 15th, 2016, 10:55 pm

Drilled holes in the back of the drum today...BIG DIFFERENCE! WOW!! Thanks for the recommendation.

On a side note, for those of you running the Eric S. Omega probes, what sampling rate do you find optimal? Trying to work out the smoothing on my ROR curve and I'm having a hard time.

#124: Post by **AssafL** » March 27th, 2016, 1:29 pm

I use 5 seconds. I find it assuages my fiddling nature.

BTW - moved the ET sensor to the air chute a-la Tom. It makes more sense and Can't wait to try it.

#125: Post by **Pingel** » March 27th, 2016, 2:10 pm

Can anyone lift the lid on their fan settings after they have drilled holes around the drum?

#126: Post by **cuppajoe** » March 27th, 2016, 5:39 pm

djbetterly wrote:Drilled holes in the back of the drum today...BIG DIFFERENCE! WOW!! Thanks for the recommendation.

Curious as to whether it mainly makes a difference with 'third wave' lighter roasts. So far have been satisfied with the results from my first gen, but mainly do medium dark roasts. Have only had the M3 since last December and still a greenhorn.

March 28th, 2016, 12:47 am

For me with the perforated plate, I would say that it makes a huge difference period. I regularly roast to the cusp of 2nd crack (no cracks) for milk drinks and spend a lot of time around the window where first crack is winding down / just finishing for filter and lighter espresso roasts. The modification has aided in a more overall even development from when the roast starts to the finish. I am finding my darker roasts to be much cleaner, more even and less dark visually. A clear change in the conduction / convection ratio of the roasting environment.

BUT if you are happy with the roasts you are producing then I would say stick with it, especially seeing as you say you are still a greenhorn.

#128: Post by **cuppajoe** » March 28th, 2016, 3:49 pm

Thanks for the feedback. So far I have been getting very even and consistent roasts, and looks like we both roast to about the same level. Depending on the coffee it usually takes about 10 min. to get to first crack. So far I have been roasting in the kitchen under the hood. I also use a cheap knockoff kill-a-watt(avoid, get the real deal) and adjust elements based on watts. When the weather starts warming up will try outdoors.

Looking at the way the M3 is built, I would say it's engineered heavily towards the conduction side. Any airflow through the drum would have to come through the small gaps at the front and rear. And looking at the air intake to the chamber, and where it is drawn through the tube at the bean loader, it seems that the main function of fan control would be to cool the drum itself, or move heat from the elements to other parts of the chamber.

As a subscriber to KISS, will leave it alone for now and work on the software end.

#129: Post by **AndreG** » April 3rd, 2016, 8:55 am

AssalfL wrote: I added a pipe from the rear air inlet to introduce the air mid roaster. On the fence on what it does...

I am curious. Did you notice any difference in the fan settings by adding the pipe?

#130: Post by **AssafL** » April 3rd, 2016, 12:11 pm

Sort of Meh. The intention was to get warmer air in (rather than cold air) by introducing it mid way in the roaster.

If it helps (and it could be wishful thinking) - it is marginal. Doesn't hurt though - except cleaning is a wee bit more involved since there is a pipe stuck in there.