Quest M3 Mods - Page 11
- TomC (original poster)
- Team HB
- Posts: 10558
- Joined: 13 years ago
My ET as I described above is mainly a clue as to how hot the drum is. My Exhaust Air tells me if at any point I've got too little power going into the roast, and I think, it's the best direct measurement of that. If at any time it's plateauing or declining, I know that the beans are either stalling or worse.AssafL wrote:Tom - very interesting about the exhaust probe. what is the relationship between the exhaust probe and the ET probe? Don't both measure internal air temp?
Join us and support Artisan Roasting Software=https://artisan-scope.org/donate/
-
- Posts: 149
- Joined: 9 years ago
James,OldmatefromOZ wrote:No worries, just giving back a tiny amount of what has been given by many others doing it much longer than I on HB.
As for mods, well personally I would never go back to how MY FAN was setup stock. I am hesitant to say YEAH just do it to others without knowing what there stock configuration is like. The manufacturing has undergone many slight variations with the parts they use.
But yes for me there was a significant increase in top end power (only good for cooling a roast - I cool externally) and near infinite adjustment to the bottom end where it counts.
Are you capable of re soldering the resistor if your not happy? I remember someone making a damper out of foil or something like that? to play with airflow at the exhaust tube / loading chute junction. Perhaps could try this to see if its something you want to do first.
Painting the drum black definitely helps with loads 200g and above. Below that it is not really necessary and personally I did not like it with the stock drum.
Trying out one mod at a time is probably best.
If I recall correctly, we're both using 2014-model Quest M3s, so I would think we'd have the same configuration (but that's a large assumption...). I don't see any particular issue re soldering the resistor (just the wire you snip, right?), and I'll stick with one modification at a time. Thanks!
-
- Posts: 318
- Joined: 11 years ago
Yes I am using a quest that was built start of 2014, so it is probably a safe assumption to make. I just followed the instructions from manufacturer to snip the wire and bend it slightly so they have no chance of touching.
Mods, I agree with Tom the most significant difference was putting the perforated plate on the back of the drum. However, for how I like to roast now having the ability to start with near zero air flow through the drum is important. I would never be able to execute current style of roast with how hard the stock fan was pulling at min setting, maybe if I charged only 75 to 100g, but for me this is too much airflow for such a small charge. I understand that the airflow can be manipulated via the 2 hatches, I found this a very clunky adjustment.
If one is relying on a PID to make all the heat based decisions, I agree that removing the airflow variable by leaving the fan at a single moderate setting throughout the whole roast is definitely the way to go.
Mods, I agree with Tom the most significant difference was putting the perforated plate on the back of the drum. However, for how I like to roast now having the ability to start with near zero air flow through the drum is important. I would never be able to execute current style of roast with how hard the stock fan was pulling at min setting, maybe if I charged only 75 to 100g, but for me this is too much airflow for such a small charge. I understand that the airflow can be manipulated via the 2 hatches, I found this a very clunky adjustment.
If one is relying on a PID to make all the heat based decisions, I agree that removing the airflow variable by leaving the fan at a single moderate setting throughout the whole roast is definitely the way to go.
- FotonDrv
- Supporter ♡
- Posts: 3748
- Joined: 11 years ago
I am going to have to try that low charge temp w/200g roast.
That Light at the End of the Tunnel is actually a train
-
- Supporter ♡
- Posts: 108
- Joined: 9 years ago
Regardless of fan adjustments, do you guys agree this mod is better than the holes near the front of the drum as noted by Tom in post #61?the most significant difference was putting the perforated plate on the back of the drum
- TomC (original poster)
- Team HB
- Posts: 10558
- Joined: 13 years ago
I didn't note that, and that's not the front of the drum, it's the rear of the drum. Putting holes near the front of the drum would likely cause a chaff fire or flare up in no time.
Join us and support Artisan Roasting Software=https://artisan-scope.org/donate/
-
- Supporter ♡
- Posts: 108
- Joined: 9 years ago
My apologies @TomC, that was @AssaFL. So are those drilled holes sufficient to notice a difference? And those are 3 or 5mm?
- AssafL
- Posts: 2588
- Joined: 14 years ago
I drilled them at the rear. I wouldn't drill at the front as the exhaust pulls from the front.
I added a pipe from the rear air inlet to introduce the air mid roaster. On the fence on what it does...
I added a pipe from the rear air inlet to introduce the air mid roaster. On the fence on what it does...
Scraping away (slowly) at the tyranny of biases and dogma.
- FotonDrv
- Supporter ♡
- Posts: 3748
- Joined: 11 years ago
Here is the answer to a couple of previous questions.AssafL wrote:5mm now. It was 3 prior. Remains to be seen that beans don't fall through.
That Light at the End of the Tunnel is actually a train
-
- Supporter ♡
- Posts: 108
- Joined: 9 years ago
Ah thanks, guess I scrolled too fast and missed that.