Profiling on the Huky 500

Discuss roast levels and profiles for espresso, equipment for roasting coffee.
repatter
Posts: 1
Joined: 10 years ago

#1: Post by repatter »

I would like to have a serious discussion about profiling roasts on the Huky 500.

I want to preface by saying that the type of coffee I strive to roast is coffee that is beautiful with clarity and origin characteristics and shines when brewed with a highly precise pour over technique. So my roasts are lighter, but not so light that there are herbaceous qualities and unripe acidities, but not too dark that the inherent complexity of the coffee is masked by the generic darker tones of a more developed coffee.

My opinion about the Huky: The Huky is a stylish machine that has certain things it does well (accuracy and repeatability) but there are many flaws if one is looking to roast precise and clean coffee. My set up is the solid drum with 72 rpm motor. I had the perforated drum but I felt that it added another variable to the roasting process and it did not give the finesse I was looking for. I use the IR burner that comes with the roaster, which is not very responsive and can cause problems if too much flame is applied. The fan is super strong, so I got a light dimmer to increase the resistance to the fan and have lower fan speeds. Even on a low fan speed most of the chaff comes off easily. Over many failures of experimenting with the fan, I have learned to simply have the fan on the same low speed throughout the entire roast, so to create a repeatable and simple method for controlling airflow. I use Artisan profiling software, which works well for what I need it to do. However, there are limitations to this machine, some of which I will explain my experience and I would hope others also participate.

People, including the builder, claim that the Huky can roast 1 lb no problem. In my experience, the roasts are too long if one roasts that large of a quantity, or the flavors get burnt away by too strong of flame. When roasting with the Huky, the machine is not sensitive to many heat changes, particularly if you load up the roaster with 1 lb. An intuition must be learned to know when to apply and remove heat.

In order to get a good drying time (green --> yellow) the preheat charge temp must be pretty high, even with a low fan speed. Without any fan, you would need a much higher charge temp to reach the same turning point. This is the one of the problems of this machine with large loads; tipping is rampant, especially with softer Central American and Indonesian coffees. And in my experience too hot of temps tend to ruin aromatics and the complexities spoil soon after roasting rather than improving after as the coffee rests. However, when I try to have lower charges and therefore lower turning points, the drying phase is much too long and a dramatic bitterness spoils the cup.

This brings me to my second complaint, which is the lack of sensitivity of the roaster. Even if I apply a boatload of heat in the beginning, the temperature rise is still not going to catch up in time to have a decent drying time, and further the excess flame will over develop the beans. That is where that balance of flame application and roast development is crucial, because it is easy to apply a lot more heat so the roast times are more ideal, but the extra flame has invisibly scorched the beans, leading to a flat, dismal cup.

So then, the compromise of flame application and duration of roast is to lengthen the roast by having just hot enough charge temp to get a good drying time, but not apply too much heat so the middle phase (yellow --> first crack) is extended. This tends to create way too many melanoidins, aka those browning components that add to body and flavor, showing an over developed coffee with too thick of a body.

Also to comment on the manufacturer's idea of no fan in the drying phase, full fan and flame from yellow to before first crack and then little fan throughout first crack, I have not had success with this method. With larger batch sizes, the preheat temp with no fan is through the roof (535F!) to get a 212F turning point, and then the rate of rise is very slow. As read in Scott Rao's "Coffee Roaster's Companion," if the temperature gradient of outside bean development and inside bean development is small, a under ripe sourness results in the final cup, which is what I found when doing the manufacturer's technique. It was only when I used the fan throughout that I got drying times that were more suitable with my preferences.

In sum, I have not found a good way to roast large batches, which is frustrating because I bought the machine with the assumption that it could handle 1 lb batches so I give full bags to people, but it seems that I have not been able to find a way to do so that is in line with my attention to quality.

Only recently I have been trying with smaller batches (~7 oz.), which gives me more control of the roaster (still not as much as large commercial roasters). With low drop temps (315F) and good application of heat, I can get a 12:30 roast time that seems to be better. Luckily I can apply the exact same amount of heat to the small batches as I did for the large batches for the beginning of the roast, which allows good drying times and development through the middle phase, and further lower the temp so there is enough energy to take it into crack but not go over board.

I am still waiting on a batch to age for a few days so I can really see how it develops (I tend to get too excited and make too many decisions based on early analyzes, which do not always pan out in the way I thought they would). I am worried that I will still experience some of the degradation of flavors over time. If things are going better I will post my profile graphs and we can discuss any ideas and thoughts about roasting particularly on this machine. However, even if you do not have this machine, your input would be appreciated.

User avatar
Chert
Posts: 3537
Joined: 16 years ago

#2: Post by Chert »

We are roasting with HUKY 500 and a kitchen gas stove. Our preferred loads are 1 lb with no tipping. If (in future) I use a weaker burner, I will cover the top of the roaster with a small insulating blanket to try to improve the thermal mass. But after reading your experience I think I will choose a powerful but controllable burner if I bring it away from my friends kitchen stove top.
LMWDP #198

Advertisement
genecounts
Posts: 362
Joined: 14 years ago

#3: Post by genecounts »

Repatters comment about "In order to get a good drying time" really has me wondering. Since I eliminated drying phase on my Gene Cafe several years ago my roasts have been so much better.

Really hope to get a Huky in the not too distant future. To me if could do a seamless roast without a drying phase would be yet another strong point of owning the Huky.

Ran across this post this morning from Endlesscycles back on March 24:

[quote]I've been rallying against the so called "drying phase" for years. Fast as possible early on is the single best way to get heat into the coffee that results in the most even roast. You can not scorch the coffee as long as there is agitation and the heat is backed off before the ROR stops descending on it's own.
/quote]

Hope Marshal don't mind me quoting him as I am deeply interested in this area of roasting.
And apologies if hi-jacked your thread by getting off topic but was hoping to hear some opinions as this really is central to your profiling IMO?

User avatar
johnny4lsu
Posts: 775
Joined: 12 years ago

#4: Post by johnny4lsu »

I don't have any of those problems with my Huky.. When I'm back on my computer and not my phone I'll try to answer some of your questions.

jalpert
Posts: 111
Joined: 10 years ago

#5: Post by jalpert replying to johnny4lsu »

Me too. I use the perforated drum and have a variac on my fan, and most of my roasts turn out quite well, at least as far as I believe.

User avatar
hankua
Supporter ♡
Posts: 1235
Joined: 14 years ago

#6: Post by hankua »

I've got the same setup as you; solid drum and 72 rpm motor and agree with some of your points about the Huky. It was originally a 300g machine "direct fire" machine that was upgraded to 500g with improved stirring vanes. Joel (slickrock) introduced the solid drum idea to our community as opposed to the IR/perforated drum combination.

The IR stove does not have the fine control of a built in atmospheric burner/burners. It does come with a high pressure regulator and gauge which allows more heat input; 5kpa vs 3kpa. After reading some of the roasting threads here on HB I experimented with charging 1lb at 480f/250c (low air setting on my light dimmer/4kpa). At 150*c reduced the gas 1kp and every 10*c (ending .5-.75kpa) increasing the air slightly between 180-190*c. The only time the gas pressure might be increased was between 1c and drop.

But the level of control does not even come close to my Yang-Chia 800n with cast iron drum and four atmospheric burners controlled by a very precise needle valve. Huky has no built in burners, no attached cooling bin, no chaff collector, not much mass for a one pounder, and can burn you if not careful. It's got plenty of faults and pluses. Especially what happens when you want to drop an roast; that's comical.

With the Huky I can bang out #1 batches; four per hour easily once its warmed up. You can get it factory setup for artisan with BT, ET and MET and the ET placement in the drum center is actually useful vs one in the exhaust pipe. I do agree profiling is more difficult on the Huky than the 800n/Mini500 with cast iron drum and atmospheric burners. Luckily the Huky has very good resale value in case a roaster upgrade is considered.

jalpert
Posts: 111
Joined: 10 years ago

#7: Post by jalpert »

Yeah I've never used a more professional roaster than the Huky, so for me it's like a dream vs. the Behmor or a popcorn popper. So it sounds like it depends on your perspective - if you've used a more pro roaster, the flaws in the Huky are obvious.

Also I only ever roast 227g (half pound) batches. I've never tried anything more than that.

Advertisement
User avatar
hankua
Supporter ♡
Posts: 1235
Joined: 14 years ago

#8: Post by hankua »

Back the the Huky heat input; even charging #1 @ 180c with the gas at 50mmaq, turning point 90*c/1:30. It's possible to have a normal drying time if heat is set high (4kpa) afterwards. This is using the green Taiwanese regulator that comes with the stove. So my stove had a range of .5kpa-4kpa, which I find very useful. The Huky is actually more flexible with 1lb batches than the 800n which tops out at 3kpa gas pressure and 230c drum temp.

edtbjon
Posts: 251
Joined: 10 years ago

#9: Post by edtbjon »

My experiences with the Huky is that it's quite easy to control the roast and the RoR in particular (as "repeller" seems to adhere to Scott Rao's recommendations, which by the way I do too). I used to roast around 250-300g batches while getting accustomed to the roaster, but nowadays I mostly rost full 500g batches. After reading up on a previous post by Hank (hankua) I radically lowered my charge temps from 210-240C down to around 190C for 500g loads, which made the whole roast more controllable and more important: better tasting.
My setup is a standard Huky with a solid drum and a 72rpm motor. I use a variac to control the exhaust fan which is on a low setting throughout the drying phase. I also find the standard IR burner very much up to the job.
The problems I may have is from mid 1C onwards, trying to maintain a decending but still positive RoR, needing a very delicate touch, but I still feel that it's controlable.

In order to help repeller out, it would be nice to see a graph (if you use e.g. Artisan). Preferably with plots (or notes in the text) on gas and fan.

GregR
Posts: 226
Joined: 14 years ago

#10: Post by GregR »

repatter wrote:I would like to have a serious discussion about profiling roasts on the Huky 500.

I want to preface by saying that the type of coffee I strive to roast is coffee that is beautiful with clarity and origin characteristics and shines when brewed with a highly precise pour over technique. So my roasts are lighter, but not so light that there are herbaceous qualities and unripe acidities, but not too dark that the inherent complexity of the coffee is masked by the generic darker tones of a more developed coffee.

My opinion about the Huky: The Huky is a stylish machine that has certain things it does well (accuracy and repeatability) but there are many flaws if one is looking to roast precise and clean coffee. My set up is the solid drum with 72 rpm motor. I had the perforated drum but I felt that it added another variable to the roasting process and it did not give the finesse I was looking for. I use the IR burner that comes with the roaster, which is not very responsive and can cause problems if too much flame is applied.

This has been the opposite of my experience but I've only used a Behmor and Hottop- both electric heating elements. What heat sources that that are more responsive?


The fan is super strong, so I got a light dimmer to increase the resistance to the fan and have lower fan speeds. Even on a low fan speed most of the chaff comes off easily. Over many failures of experimenting with the fan, I have learned to simply have the fan on the same low speed throughout the entire roast, so to create a repeatable and simple method for controlling airflow. I use Artisan profiling software, which works well for what I need it to do. However, there are limitations to this machine, some of which I will explain my experience and I would hope others also participate.

People, including the builder, claim that the Huky can roast 1 lb no problem. In my experience, the roasts are too long if one roasts that large of a quantity, or the flavors get burnt away by too strong of flame. When roasting with the Huky, the machine is not sensitive to many heat changes, particularly if you load up the roaster with 1 lb. An intuition must be learned to know when to apply and remove heat.

I decided early on to roast one pound at a time, have done about 150 one pound roasts. Never even tried smaller loads, but I can say without reservation that the Huky can roast one pound at any speed I desire, and that burnt flavors haven't been an issue since I got the hang of the controls. I even tried this super fast technique that people have been talking about lately- first crack in six minutes with a charge temp of 465F. Results with the 3 roasts (Ethiopia, Rwanda and Guatemala) I tried that way had no discernable "roast" flavors.


In order to get a good drying time (green --> yellow) the preheat charge temp must be pretty high, even with a low fan speed. Without any fan, you would need a much higher charge temp to reach the same turning point. This is the one of the problems of this machine with large loads; tipping is rampant, especially with softer Central American and Indonesian coffees. And in my experience too hot of temps tend to ruin aromatics and the complexities spoil soon after roasting rather than improving after as the coffee rests. However, when I try to have lower charges and therefore lower turning points, the drying phase is much too long and a dramatic bitterness spoils the cup.

Tipping hasn't been an issue for me- I'm surprised you're seeing it since I also run the fan at a low-ish speed throughout the roast. What are your charge temps? I'd love to see one of your unhappy profiles with all the fan and heat changes along the way- maybe we can nail down what is causing these problems for you.

This brings me to my second complaint, which is the lack of sensitivity of the roaster. Even if I apply a boatload of heat in the beginning, the temperature rise is still not going to catch up in time to have a decent drying time, and further the excess flame will over develop the beans. That is where that balance of flame application and roast development is crucial, because it is easy to apply a lot more heat so the roast times are more ideal, but the extra flame has invisibly scorched the beans, leading to a flat, dismal cup.

What are you aiming for as a decent drying time? Using my standard 30% fan setting I can hit 300F at pretty much any time I want by varying the charge temp and stove setting. With the crazy fast profile 300F came in at about 3:15 and with a more traditional profile it's 4:00-5:00 depending on what I'm aiming for.

So then, the compromise of flame application and duration of roast is to lengthen the roast by having just hot enough charge temp to get a good drying time, but not apply too much heat so the middle phase (yellow --> first crack) is extended. This tends to create way too many melanoidins, aka those browning components that add to body and flavor, showing an over developed coffee with too thick of a body.

Also to comment on the manufacturer's idea of no fan in the drying phase, full fan and flame from yellow to before first crack and then little fan throughout first crack, I have not had success with this method. With larger batch sizes, the preheat temp with no fan is through the roof (535F!) to get a 212F turning point, and then the rate of rise is very slow. As read in Scott Rao's "Coffee Roaster's Companion," if the temperature gradient of outside bean development and inside bean development is small, a under ripe sourness results in the final cup, which is what I found when doing the manufacturer's technique. It was only when I used the fan throughout that I got drying times that were more suitable with my preferences.

In sum, I have not found a good way to roast large batches, which is frustrating because I bought the machine with the assumption that it could handle 1 lb batches so I give full bags to people, but it seems that I have not been able to find a way to do so that is in line with my attention to quality.

Only recently I have been trying with smaller batches (~7 oz.), which gives me more control of the roaster (still not as much as large commercial roasters). With low drop temps (315F) and good application of heat, I can get a 12:30 roast time that seems to be better. Luckily I can apply the exact same amount of heat to the small batches as I did for the large batches for the beginning of the roast, which allows good drying times and development through the middle phase, and further lower the temp so there is enough energy to take it into crack but not go over board.

I am still waiting on a batch to age for a few days so I can really see how it develops (I tend to get too excited and make too many decisions based on early analyzes, which do not always pan out in the way I thought they would). I am worried that I will still experience some of the degradation of flavors over time. If things are going better I will post my profile graphs and we can discuss any ideas and thoughts about roasting particularly on this machine. However, even if you do not have this machine, your input would be appreciated.
I suggest experimenting with different settings because I believe you can get the results you want. An example of another approach, one that works well for me:
With one pound of a high grown/hard bean charge at 420F with the fan at about 30%, stove at 2.5kPa.
At 300F raise the fan to 50% for 20-30 seconds, then back to 30%
At 325F raise the stove to 3-3.25kPa
At 365F lower the stove to 1.0kPa
At the end of first crack raise the fan to 50% or more and keep an eye on the bean temp so it doesn't rise too fast or flatline.

Post Reply