my i-roast2 finally gave it up ... i replaced it with a hottop 8828b. i roast for espresso... i have done several (6-8) roasts using auto and then trying out some of the profiles on this forum. the results have been mixed ... .

... i am looking for is a good description of the basic principles of roasting for espresso with the ht - i.e. power levels, fan levels and time durations. i've tried working backwards from the profiles posted here but that doesn't really do it for me. can someone (jim s?) point me in the right direction. many thanks. john davis



(Editor's note: Title changed and text edited for clarity's sake -- kindly think about your posts from the readers' POV)

The Hottop is a fine roaster, but I don't use it myself and don't know the roasting nuts and bolts. I hope some people who know the roaster can help.

From an outsider's perspective I see two issues: the first is learning how to profile on your particular roaster, making the control changes that produce faster or slower temperature ramps at the various roast stages. This is where other owners need to help you, and I can't. The second aspect is changing profiles to get specific changes or improvements in the taste of the coffee. For this, all the experienced members can help, but you'll need to describe the taste you are getting and the changes you want to make.

Text with capitals and paragraphs would be nice too.

There are many variables that are location specific such as ambient temperature, air currents, line voltage, unit to unit variation, etc. that make direct transfer of parameters problematic.

I don't have the B [ See UberHotTop ], so only general principles apply.

- check line voltage for consistency. If it varies, so will your roasts. Consider a Variac.
- don't overload. 225g works well
- install a bean temp sensor. See Randy G Add Bean Temperature Monitoring to the HotTop
- drop the beans around 250° BT
- reduce power input rather than increase the fan speed to extend time between 1st & 2nd cracks
- start lowering power input around 365-375°F BT to 80%, 70% @ 1st, 60% @ 415°F *
- use a small desk fan to cool more quickly
- make notes of EVERYTHING

* % values based on variac voltage applied to heater. HotTop power levels may not correlate precisely.

Thanks for the very helpful response. This is some of the info I was hoping to get; i.e. general principles of starting temp and durations at various points in the roast, relationship of fan speed to heat power etc. Any other suggestions would be most appreciated.

The "B" model Roast procedure (beginners primer):

Be aware:
* I have about 122 volts with element off and 119-120 with it on. Lower voltages (below about 112 or so) will affect some of what you read here. The later models are voltage compensated/regulated in some way, so unless your line voltage varies a lot you probably will not notice the difference too much.
* I roast 300 grams at a time. It lengthens the roast time, possibly beyond what you may like. This is particularly true if you have been using a roaster that is fast (air roasters and such).
* I use a permanent stainless steel mesh rear main filter (intended for computer fans) instead of the stock, consumable filter. This changes the airflow compared to the stock filter. Adjust the heating element and fan speed to get the desired results.

- Start the roaster on Auto mode, but program it with maximum time and maximum temperature possible (I think that is 25:00 and 428 F.), and the default fan speed of "0%." When using the auto program there are times when the program will drop the heat or change the fan speed. Watch carefully as these take place and override them using the panel controls to keep the roast going as described below.

- Start the roaster and allow it to go through the preheat cycle (never add beans before the preheat cycle completes). Allow the "Add beans" signal beeps to take place, and then wait for the roaster to reach about 230-250 F. Add beans at about 240 to 250 F.

- After about three minutes or so after adding the beans (or when it smells a bit damp or grassy) run the fan at 25% to 50% for about fifteen to thirty seconds to clear out the humidity, then turn the fan off.

- OPTIONAL: You may wish to try lengthening the drying time. Do this by adjusting the fan and heating to hold the roasting chamber at around 300-325 or so until the beans start going from green to tan. Just as you see the green fading away, turn the fan off (if it is on) and set the heat to 100% again.

- At about 325 F (or when you first start to see smoke), set the fan to 25% and consider this the minimum fan speed for the remainder of the roast.

- Allow the roast to continue, pressing a button (other than EJECT !) when you hear a beeping. After the "Add Beans" signal beeping, there are two times when this may occur. See the manual for details- Page 17. If you have a very recent model and the beans have ejected early it is probably from the new safety measures. Download the updated manual from the Hottop website and refer to page 14.

- At the first clicks of first crack, set heating element to about 75%. As First become a bit more active set the heating element to about 30%. The beans will be exothermic and the temperature will continue to rise, slowly. At NO TIME should the temperature be allowed to drop. If the temperature seems to be rising too quickly, switch the fan speed to 50% or more as necessary, for only as long as necessary. Remember, do not let the temperature drop..

- The goal of dropping the temperature at the beginning of first crack is to get a time span of about 4 minutes between the beginning of first crack and the beginning of second crack. Another way to look at this is that you are trying to achieve a pause of two minutes between the end of first crack and the beginning of second crack.

- Temperature control is accomplished by fan speed and heating element level. If you think of the heating element as the coarse adjustment and the fan as the fine adjustment you begin to get the idea. Be aware that the fan can slow the rate of temperature rise in a hurry, so use it cautiously. With a new filter and the fan set at 100%, the temperature may drop so rapidly that it will be difficult to hold the temp from actually dropping and that can ruin a roast.

- Remember that the fan should be left on in the roast because of smoke production, so you want to maintain airflow in the roasting chamber to clear the smoke if nothing else.

- Just as (or a bit before) second starts, set the heating element back to 100% and the fan speed at 50%-75%.

- Eject when the desired level of roast is achieved. For my house blend for espresso I am going about 10-20 seconds into second.

- Allow the cooling cycle to complete, and when prompted, save the program in one of the three memory areas. This will make it easier to use next time since you have overridden the various temperature changes and fan adjustments in the auto program. Make a note of the roast and area where it was savcved since these three memory locations cannot be named in the machine for reference.

Use this as a beginning foundation and modify it as your needs and taste dictate. For example, for drip I would use a smaller mass of beans and add the beans at about 275 F or so to shorten the total roast time, and eject about midway between first and second, or just as the first click or two of seconds sounds off.

(Slightly OT) In the Hottop, does the fan draw air over the heating element, and then into the drum?

See HotTop Bezel.

The element is on the side. Most air exchange in the chamber is by convection from under the chaffe tray, entering the roast chamber from the front of the drum and out through the vent on the top.

There are some holes at the back of the bean load chute that draw a very small amount of air out of the chamber.

With the fan on FULL (about 130% of stock), smoke still comes out the top vent. Most of the air is drawn around the roast chamber... at least on the D model

* I use a permanent stainless steel mesh rear main filter (intended for computer fans) instead of the stock, consumable filter. This changes the airflow compared to the stock filter. Adjust the heating element and fan speed to get the desired results.
[quote="Randy G."]The "B" model Roast procedure (beginners primer):

I have a HotTop with about 48 roasts on it now. It has been working well I think, but all I have to compare is the little I-roast plus which was terrible. I would like to get commercial gas unit sometime.
Where did you get the stainless filter and does it work the same as the replaceable one? If so, why don't they
make it stainless from the factory? Or is it just a good way to sell more filters?

There is a bit of an art to anticipating when 1st crack approaches and turning down the heat. If you don't do this, it will race through the crucial flavor development period. I strongly recommend adding a temperature probe so you know what is going on. That bit of profiling makes a huge difference.

Right now my best results are full power until about 350 degrees bean probe temp (not HT temp!), then reduced to 70% until first is active, and then 40% until the end of roast. I can add some profiles tomorrow when I am back on my other computer with all the data.

Good luck!

-Scotto

I seriously doubt there is much moisture in the drum. It's an open container with convective airflow at over 400°F.

I have infinite control over the fan and power. Fan bites, Power rules on profile control. If you want the fan on, keep it constant throughout the roast and control the profile with power.