No doubt that moisture is driven off and that it could condense in a stone cold roaster. I'm just sceptical that it collects in the roast chamber and running the fan for a moment removes it in one fell swoop

Randy G. wrote:The "B" model Roast procedure (beginners primer):
- Just as (or a bit before) second starts, set the heating element back to 100% and the fan speed at 50%-75%.

- Eject when the desired level of roast is achieved. For my house blend for espresso I am going about 10-20 seconds into second.

To achieve City+ (between the first and second crack) , temperature needs to raise to 435F.

According to Hot Top web site, the absolute maximum temperature is 431F (at this temperature beans WILL EJECT).

From your post, you say you can achieve 2nd crack -- I'm trying to understand how the beans can reach 435F if the unit ejects them at 431F????

PB

belanger wrote:From your post, you say you can achieve 2nd crack -- I'm trying to understand how the beans can reach 435F if the unit ejects them at 431F????

There will be a difference between the temps reported by the Hottop's sensor compared to the temps reported by an add-on BT probe. For an add-on BT probe, a temperature of 435F sounds about right for second crack. But the Hottop's sensor would probably still be reading ~410F at this point.

Jim

cafeIKE wrote:No doubt that moisture is driven off and that it could condense in a stone cold roaster. I'm just sceptical that it collects in the roast chamber and running the fan for a moment removes it in one fell swoop

I wouldn't take issue with your skepticism about the effectiveness of running the fan for only a moment.

But I can report a dramatic decrease in the condensation of oils on the front window and on the bean chute cover since I switched over to the stainless steel mesh filter on my D.

Similar to your roaster setup (I copied liberally), I'm running the D's fan from an external DC source. I start all roasts with 15% fan output. When I observe smoke starting to leak from around the edges of the bean chute cover, I increase the fan output as needed to stop the leakage. By the end of a typical FC+ roast, my fan output will be between 45% and 60%.

Condensation of water inside the roaster has never been a problem for me, even before I did the fan mods. The bigger problem, IMO, is condensation of oils. The combination of the stainless mesh and the external fan control has made a big improvement in this regard.

Jim

Randy G. wrote:* I use a permanent stainless steel mesh rear main filter (intended for computer fans) instead of the stock, consumable filter. This changes the airflow compared to the stock filter. Adjust the heating element and fan speed to get the desired results.

Where can I buy a stainless filter?

(Editors note: quote edited for relevance ... what is it about this thread?)

AmishMenno wrote:Where can I buy a stainless filter?

Search 120mm mesh fan filter on eBay.

Jim

AmishMenno wrote:Where can I buy a stainless filter?

(Editors note: quote edited for relevance ... what is it about this thread?)

Thanks, I tried to edit it before but I did something wrong and got no answer, so decided to throw the whole message into the quote, thanks for your editing. Have more questions on the filter but may just end conversation.

Ask away on the filter.

I installed one years ago. Search 120mm fan filter and pick something cheap. Stainless is not necessary. I left the foam mesh in the same place. I also made a frame of .040 aluminum so the screen fit the holder snugly.

A filter can be bought for $2.99 w/ free shipping from Hong Kong at previously posted Fleabay url.ust ordered one.

Marvin