Thanks Ed,
I think your post puts the argument in good perspective. We are assuming that people on this forum are going to take some pains with their roasting. The only questions are what sort of pains are worthwhile taking, and how we can help each other out.
So here's another story that crystallized my answer to this:
Old fashioned, commercial, unventilated sample roasters like Ken's certainly can do great roasts, but the learning curve is somewhere between non-trivial and horrendous. The only reason to persevere is one knows for certain that one can finally do great roasts, since so many have in the past. At the opposite end of the commercial spectrum are the production roasters at Green Mountain, which I recently visited, ranging from a 60 pound stationary drum to a 5000 pound open bowl roaster, all made by Probat, all using heated air and mechanical stirring, all profilable for environmental temperature, airflow, and bean temperature (within the limits of heat transfer physics), all using the same control panels and displays, and all delivering identically cupping roasts for identical profiles.
Obviously, fine tuning a profile is a lot easier on something like Green Mountain's roasters than on an unventilated sample roaster. So the jaw dropping surprise is in their cupping room: for their sample roasting, they still use old style, unventilated Probat/Burns sample roasters (BTW, which Probat still makes and for which there are buyers' waiting lists). The initial profile for each coffee's production roast is based on these low tech sample roasts.
The high tech of the production roasters is not about developing profiles, but about ensuring the same roast independent of the amount being roasted or the roaster being used (It's mind boggling from an industrial engineering standpoint (or at least my 1980s one): Green Mountain manages to do everything from pound by pound mail order COE coffees to container loads of Keurig capsules out of the same roasting and distribution facility.)
So what's the moral of this story? The huge capital investment in high tech roasting is for getting QC, but not for developing roast profiles. For that, you sample roast, get to understand the coffee, and understand enough about your production roasters to know how to tweak their base profiles to get the best out that coffee.
(BTW, I'm not saying everyone must buy unventilated Probat/Burns style sample roasters; they are like qwerty keyboards, people in the industry know how to use them, but if one were inventing from scratch today, the sample roaster design would probably be quite different.)
And how does this bear on Ed's point on what sort of pains should we take and how can we help each other out?
I'm going to come back to the conventional wisdom. For the last 50 years, regardless of their size, their equipment, or their technologies, coffee roasters have developed profiles the same way. They do a standard light roast of the coffee, brew it, and taste it. Based on that, they decide whether the coffee is worth using, and if so, how to roast it. The "how to roast it" consistys of two things, how dark to roast, and how to tweak their standard roasting profile. The tweaks will be longer or shorter, or less heat, more heat at various stages of the roast.
This suggests what sort of pains are worthwhile:
- It is worthwhile learning how to do a standard, fairly fast, light roast. If you only roast for espresso, this can be a little darker than if you also brew, but in either case it should be at the light and fast end of all your regular roasting. If your roasting equipment cannot produce such roasts without grassy or excessively sour flavors, then it is time to alter it or change it.
- It is worthwhile learning how to taste this standard light roast to answer the following two questions. Is this a coffee I like? Do I want it roasted darker, longer, brewed this way, or that way?
- It is worthwhile learning how to roast longer or shorter, with less or more heat, at various phases of the roast. If your roaster cannot do this, change it or fix it.
When I started home roasting, I really didn't want to get into all this rigmarole; and most people still don't. So how can we help each other out?
- We can recommend coffees we like. People will consider the source and try or not try the coffee.
- We can tell people how we roast it: a little lighter or darker, faster or slower, than usual. They can use this by making similar modifications to their own roaster setup. This means they will always need a roast setup that allows such modifications
.
I think some people here are trying to work out a smart technology replaces the traditional route. If a roaster can get the most out of each coffee from the get go; all the cupping and tweaking is unnecessary. One buys the coffee, tells the roasting machine where it comes from and how one wants to drink it. It does the rest. One can taste the shots, and buy more or not, assured that one tasted the very best possible shot. I'm not sure if this is possible; and to be perfectly honest, I don't really want it to be possible. Such a roaster could be connected to an equally smart super auto, and we'd be out of a hobby.