I've been evolving my Hottop (8828P-2) usage since I purchased it a year ago.

In my last evolution (after reading about drying time) I updated my basic profile to essentially max out the time and temperature for every segment, with the exception of a single full fan segment for 15 seconds after the drying cycle. The last segments (before during and after 1st crack) have the fan on only at the lowest rate.

With that profile, the best I can see in temperature ramp is about 10 degrees F a minute. It takes 14 minutes to 1st crack from dump @ 230 F.

First Is that normal? (doesn't seem to be based on what I am reading)

Second Any reason to believe that the HTC+TC4C combo will allow me to get a better temp ramp?

You're ok. The tc4c mod wont give a shorter ramp but more control at the end. I highly recommend it.

Marvin

objective1 wrote: With that profile, the best I can see in temperature ramp is about 10 degrees F a minute. It takes 14 minutes to 1st crack from dump @ 230 F.

First Is that normal? (doesn't seem to be based on what I am reading)

I haven't used any built in profiles in years so can't comment on that. Even with the stock heating element I could hit 1C in 9 minutes with a 227g batch so if you've maxed out the temp it sounds very slow. Also doesn't sound like a profile I'd want to use. Have you measured the voltage at the outlet you are using for the HT?

objective1 wrote:With that profile, the best I can see in temperature ramp is about 10 degrees F a minute. It takes 14 minutes to 1st crack from dump @ 230 F.

First Is that normal? (doesn't seem to be based on what I am reading)

My old Hottop D progresses at >20F per minute to first crack with power set at 95% and 250g bean charge. FC around 11 minutes, usually. Your rate of 10F per minute does not sound normal.

Jim

objective1 wrote:With that profile, the best I can see in temperature ramp is about 10 degrees F a minute. It takes 14 minutes to 1st crack from dump.

That seems really slow to first crack. I typically hit about 9-10 minutes for first crack. What is your batch size?

Likely causes (no particular order):
1 - voltage (try new outlet)
2 - clean drum and roast chamber. Soak drum in strong, hot TSP solution
3 - replace heating element
4 - replace main filter (or remove for test, but roast outdoors)
5 - clean top filter (carefully) or replace

Aaron wrote:That seems really slow to first crack. I typically hit about 9-10 minutes for first crack. What is your batch size?

my batch size is 250 grams

with a 160 gm batch (end of a 2lb 'sample' bag frm SM) I reach 1st crack from 230 in 13 minutes (392)

I measure 120 volts at the outlet (although I admit it is at an extension cord - 15' - 14 awg)

>> Randy...

except for the possibility of replacing the heating element, how would those other items allow the unit to heat faster?


>>>>
thought i'd go back to my logs form my first roasts... I was closer to 9 minutes to first crack (194 -> 390)

hmmmm

1 - Roasting 160 grams and taking 13:00 to reach first does indicate slow roasting. Check the contacts inside the roaster at the hearing element. They may show signs of oxidation. A new heating element is most likely the best solution. If not already so equipped, get the new thermal fuse and the resistor that jumpers on the main board to rewire the heating element while you are in there (if you already do not have that).

2 - What is the voltage on the circuit when the roaster is operating (like during warm up)? Still, 120 volts at idle is (or should be) sufficient.

I have had situations where running a bit more air through the roaster actually raises the temperature of the roaster. Same on some cold days where it seems to work better than on ho days. Can't do more than guess why that is, so won't.

A clogged drum restricts air flow so can lead to slower temperature development.

A dirty temperature sensor might react more slowly.

If you have any further doubts contact Michael at Hottop USA and see what he says.

okay so I disassembled the unit to look for something obvious... here are some pictures guess I need to follow up with Michael as Randy suggested.
>inside of the top shell


>inside of the body showing heating element


>drum


>heating element leads

Is your heating element touching the wall of the roasting chamber? It appears to be in the picture but that could be the angle of the picture. If it is that could be your problem.

http://www.hottopusa.com/heatalign.html